Camber Adjustments

[MikeB]

Here's what I've used on a few vehicles, including my 82 C10 with all new front end parts:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-91000/overview/

You really have to understand the concept of caster and camber, and how adjusting one affects the other. And if your garage floor is sloped front-to-rear or side-to-side you'll have to factor that into the gauge readings. Also, if the truck is a lot lower in the front than the rear, you may not be able to set caster to spec.

By the way, I didn't read all the responses above, but inside tire wear could also point to ball joints and/or loose wheel bearings.

 

[spanky55amg]

So maybe I missed something but am I the only one here thinking... just take it to the alignment shop?

I have done alignments before, at a shop. And there is just nothing like having a perfectly aligned vehicle. I know we all want to do everything ourselves, but an alignment is a very precise thing to do.

 

[MikeB]

So maybe I missed something but am I the only one here thinking... just take it to the alignment shop?

I have done alignments before, at a shop. And there is just nothing like having a perfectly aligned vehicle. I know we all want to do everything ourselves, but an alignment is a very precise thing to do.

Absolutely right! I've always seen my home alignments as getting things in the ballpark to take a test drive and then on to the alignment shop. However, I once did a 69 C10 and took it to a shop where the tech said it was so close he felt guilty charging me! Also, I did the alignment on a 55 Chevy car after installing aftermarket upper control arms to get more caster. It drove so well, I never even took it to the shop. Another reason was because I knew they would argue with me about the 4° caster vs 0° that was called for back in the day for bias ply tires.

This time around, my 82 C10 with new tie rod ends, ball joints, and control arm bushings just doesn't feel right, so it's going to the shop soon.

Speaking of which, do you recommend the factory specs, which for my truck are 0.7° positive camber, 2.6° caster, and 3/16" toe-in?

Edit: I was thinking you used to do alignments at shops, but I guess you were just saying that you'd taken vehicles to shops, to have the alignments done.

 

[spanky55amg]

Speaking of which, do you recommend the factory specs, which for my truck are 0.7° positive camber, 2.6° caster, and 3/16" toe-in?

Edit: I was thinking you used to do alignments at shops, but I guess you were just saying that you'd taken vehicles to shops, to have the alignments done.

I used to do alignments. I dont work in the shop anymore. I was a jack of all trades on Mercedes.

That said, it all depends on what you are trying to do. Is there a reason you would need something besides the factory specs? Though I am questioning the positive camber. Do you use your truck for hauling anything? Im used to aligning cars and I dont see a need for positive camber unless you are loading it down. I would almost say you want .7 degrees negative camber if not. Caster doesnt wear tires but should be even so it doesnt pull to one side (unless you are making a **** load of turns). The toe should be fine. You want some toe in because the road forces the wheels outward. Also make sure toe is even on both sides and that the steering wheel is straight. I HATE off steering wheels. Also, the most important, toe is done LAST!

 

[spanky55amg]

Another reason was because I knew they would argue with me about the 4° caster vs 0° that was called for back in the day for bias ply tires.

And just because they work at a shop, doesnt mean they know alignments. Usually if I want custom specs, I take in the specs for them and have them do it. I also demand the print out to verify the alignment was done to my specs. (its a lot harder now that I dont do them myself). I had custom specs for the TA, which I did myself but I was out of the shop by the time I had my MS3 and just made them do my specs.

 

[MikeB]

Thanks, man. Yes, my 1982 service manual says C10 camber spec is +0.7° +/-0.5°. It could be like you say about compensating for load. I think you're right about zero being the way to go for a truck that usually has nothing over 100 lbs in the bed.

Last time I took an old vehicle to a shop, they hooked me up with a tech who had been doing alignments forever, so he knew how to do more than toe-in.

 

[MikeB]

Took my 82 C10 to a shop yesterday and had it aligned by an older guy (a baby compared to me!) who said he's probably done "only" a few hundred square bodies.

I told him I'd like to end up with zero camber and as much caster as he could get. Ended up with +0.3 L and +0.4 R camber, and 1.0 L 1.3 R caster. Cross camber was almost smack in the middle of spec, but cross caster was right on the edge of spec. Sure would have liked more caster, but I'm convinced he did all he could. And at least his computerized system shows everything is now in spec. I'm eventually gonna lower the rear 2" which will add a tiny bit of caster.

Anyway, the truck goes straight down the road with the steering wheel centered, and there's no tendency to wonder. All the new steering and suspension parts make it feel great. All I need now is a quick ratio AGR steering box.! ($$$$) I installed one in a buddy's truck several years ago, and it was incredible. Made the steering response feel more like what you'd expect in a sports sedan, and yet it had a heavy on-center feel.