Cam sounds?

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Honky Kong jr

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Breaking in a cam for some one who knows how to do it yes but a novice not so much. Screw it up once and your rebuilding it again. If you have 2K in your Engine now you’ll have 4. Roller cam no worries and it’s cheaper then rebuilding your already rebuilt engine. As some one here said....”drops mic and walks off stage”
 

shiftpro

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Flat tappets are fine, once you break them in there's really no problem with them. I use Rotella T6 oil that has alot of ZDDP in it and don't have any troubles.

Gear ratio witht hose little cams can be stock, even 3.08, they don't move the power up far enough to matter.

And they will outlast rollers by many many miles. I think it's bad advice to automatically recommend rollers in a retro build. It's a hell of a lot more money and much less reliability for actually a very small gain in power. I've been meaning to start a thread on this discussion. Far too many roller recommendations getting posted. Retro rollers are not for daily drivers imo. Hot rods and mud trucks maybe, but not long term reliability. And please don't bring up the fact that all new engines are rollers because that doesn't mention the years of developing an engine block with rollers in mind. Like for example the first big difference between a non-roller block and factory roller block are... true lifter bores.

If you want more power go BB(with flat tappet cam). It will cost you less in the long run and give you more wood for the bang.
 

shiftpro

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Breaking in a cam for some one who knows how to do it yes but a novice not so much. Screw it up once and your rebuilding it again. If you have 2K in your Engine now you’ll have 4. Roller cam no worries and it’s cheaper then rebuilding your already rebuilt engine. As some one here said....”drops mic and walks off stage”
Well rookies also put the rings in wrong, don't size the rings, put bearings in wrong, gaskets upside down, mistimed. On and on.
If your new engine with flat tappets doesn't just fire up and idle away at 2000 it's not the end of the world. Shut it down, check your timing, try again.
A guy had carb problems that weren't dealt with and had to keep squirting gas down the carb to keep it percolating at around 2000 for 15 minutes.

And if it's a BB my God just groove the lifter bores...
 

Iowan

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Flat tappets are fine, once you break them in there's really no problem with them. I use Rotella T6 oil that has alot of ZDDP in it and don't have any troubles.

Gear ratio witht hose little cams can be stock, even 3.08, they don't move the power up far enough to matter.
I watched a Roadkill EXtra on Motortrend on demand while I had my free trial, and they did a how to build your first engine and so k=now I have a guide to go by, this relates because I heard Steve Dulcich say that most modern oils are not very high with ZDDP anymore so that's good to have one which is something I was worried about.

I ask about gear ratio bevause with that second cam I heard a guy say he got 7 mpg, with 4.10s (explanatory), a Q-jet, and no over drive. 4000 at 70 mph, YIKES! I was thinking 3.08s-3.23s.

Breaking in a cam for some one who knows how to do it yes but a novice not so much. Screw it up once and your rebuilding it again. If you have 2K in your Engine now you’ll have 4. Roller cam no worries and it’s cheaper then rebuilding your already rebuilt engine. As some one here said....”drops mic and walks off stage”
I have made really good friends with my mechanic, he works out of his house which I think is why he's a little more affordable too, anyway he said that he'd be more than happy to help me with break in.
 

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Both of those cams will sound similar to the Edelbrock Performer. very mild, very slight idle depending on displacement, compression ratio, headers or manifolds, etc.

Like a bean burrito fart instead of a protein shake fart.

o_O
 

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And they will outlast rollers by many many miles. I think it's bad advice to automatically recommend rollers in a retro build. It's a hell of a lot more money and much less reliability for actually a very small gain in power. I've been meaning to start a thread on this discussion. Far too many roller recommendations getting posted. Retro rollers are not for daily drivers imo. Hot rods and mud trucks maybe, but not long term reliability. And please don't bring up the fact that all new engines are rollers because that doesn't mention the years of developing an engine block with rollers in mind. Like for example the first big difference between a non-roller block and factory roller block are... true lifter bores.

If you want more power go BB(with flat tappet cam). It will cost you less in the long run and give you more wood for the bang.
Very true with roller blocks. I had a guy tell me that the only problem with BB is 2x the size= 2x the repair.
Well rookies also put the rings in wrong, don't size the rings, put bearings in wrong, gaskets upside down, mistimed. On and on.
If your new engine with flat tappets doesn't just fire up and idle away at 2000 it's not the end of the world. Shut it down, check your timing, try again.
A guy had carb problems that weren't dealt with and had to keep squirting gas down the carb to keep it percolating at around 2000 for 15 minutes.

And if it's a BB my God just groove the lifter bores...
Like I said, Mech. is going to help.
 

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Both of those cams will sound similar to the Edelbrock Performer. very mild, very slight idle depending on displacement, compression ratio, headers or manifolds, etc.

Like a bean burrito fart instead of a protein shake fart.

o_O
Hahahahaha....I know the exact sound :dancingpoop::laughing1::rofl::rofl::rofl::bowroflwerd6:
 

twinturbo427

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I can't remember how to post videos so here is the link:

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/yt/fPdkz5aAMKg/yt/

the 12-239-3 would be great for heavy towing with 4.10s and a TH400
 

Honky Kong jr

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Buy one of them Thumper cams if you want noise and meager performance.
 

Jrgunn5150

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Well rookies also put the rings in wrong, don't size the rings, put bearings in wrong, gaskets upside down, mistimed. On and on.
If your new engine with flat tappets doesn't just fire up and idle away at 2000 it's not the end of the world. Shut it down, check your timing, try again.
A guy had carb problems that weren't dealt with and had to keep squirting gas down the carb to keep it percolating at around 2000 for 15 minutes.

And if it's a BB my God just groove the lifter bores...


Yeah, it's not like terminal melt down, mine almost never go the first time, or third lol.
 

Iowan

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I can't remember how to post videos so here is the link:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

/yt/fPdkz5aAMKg/yt/

the 12-239-3 would be great for heavy towing with 4.10s and a TH400
I've only listened to that, 5-6....hundred times.
he was running flowmasters too :pp:

Buy one of them Thumper cams if you want noise and meager performance.
Like I said not buying for sound but was curious if it'd make much difference.

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I hate to ask this, but could you guys help me figure out specs with stock heads? this was vortec heads. and point out to me if I have some wrong info. Thanks!
 

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The setup is, Stock heads, Dual plane performer, 4bbl performer, maybe some light porting on the heads. Does pocket porting do much?
 

Jrgunn5150

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Which stock head's? Like an 882?

Anything you do, gives you a percentage. Pocket porting, cleaning up, gasket matching, is probably worth 7-10%.
 

Iowan

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Which stock head's? Like an 882?

Anything you do, gives you a percentage. Pocket porting, cleaning up, gasket matching, is probably worth 7-10%.
what would come stock on a 350 from 73-84?
 

Iowan

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Ok that was wrong, 8.5:1 sound about right for a bone stock?
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