C30 Rear Shock Mounts

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Biggnate81

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Posts
32
Reaction score
15
Location
Kentucky
First Name
Nathan
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Hey guys, I was working on my 1978 c30 this afternoon trying to get everything stripped off the frame to paint it and unfortunately on both rear shocks the stud snapped. So my question is, is there anywhere that makes the rear shock mount bracket? I havent had any luck finding them online. I might end up taking the bracket off and seeing if the local machine shop can make one if I cant find it online.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Turbo4whl

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2019
Posts
3,120
Reaction score
7,240
Location
Downingtown, PA
First Name
Wayne
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
Jimmy
Engine Size
350
Some year models, the rear upper shock mount was part of the stock shock. So replacement shocks will usually have that upper stud mount, in the shock hardware/bushing kit, that is supplied with the shock. Just remove the stud from the riveted bracket and bolt in the new stud.
 

Biggnate81

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Posts
32
Reaction score
15
Location
Kentucky
First Name
Nathan
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Some year models, the rear upper shock mount was part of the stock shock. So replacement shocks will usually have that upper stud mount, in the shock hardware/bushing kit, that is supplied with the shock. Just remove the stud from the riveted bracket and bolt in the new stud.

My 84 k10 was that way if I remember correctly but these appear to be a stub that's welding to that bracket, theres no hole on the back side for a stud to pass through and bolt on. May try cutting off the stud and drilling a hole in the bracket.
 

Turbo4whl

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2019
Posts
3,120
Reaction score
7,240
Location
Downingtown, PA
First Name
Wayne
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
Jimmy
Engine Size
350
My 84 k10 was that way if I remember correctly but these appear to be a stub that's welding to that bracket, theres no hole on the back side for a stud to pass through and bolt on. May try cutting off the stud and drilling a hole in the bracket.

That is what you will need to do. That 44 year old truck, someone welded the stud in. Many custom mounts have been made by truck owners, the best design has two sides and a through bolt.

This is a kit from a Gabriel shock for a square:

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Biggnate81

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Posts
32
Reaction score
15
Location
Kentucky
First Name
Nathan
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
That is what you will need to do. That 44 year old truck, someone welded the stud in. Many custom mounts have been made by truck owners, the best design has two sides and a through bolt.

This is a kit from a Gabriel shock for a square:

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach

Yea I'd thought about making something similar to a leaf spring hanger. I was hoping that someone made the whole bracket that I could just replace.
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,192
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
AFAIK, the rear shock mount configurations are one design for the 1 ton pickups and all suburbans, and a different design for the 1/2 and 3/4 ton pickups. In some cases the mount in the first picture may be farther back and bolted to the top of the frame where it dips down.

For example, on my '75 K25 the upper shock mount is on the outside of the frame and it is simply bolted into the frame like the design inpost 4. Off Road Design sells a brace to hold the outer side of the upper shock mount, but the stock setup does not have an outer support.

Bruce
 

HotRodPC

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Posts
47,128
Reaction score
9,299
Location
OKC, OK
First Name
HotRod
Truck Year
85 K20 LWB
Truck Model
Silverado
Engine Size
454 - Turbo 400 - 3.73
Hey guys, I was working on my 1978 c30 this afternoon trying to get everything stripped off the frame to paint it and unfortunately on both rear shocks the stud snapped. So my question is, is there anywhere that makes the rear shock mount bracket? I havent had any luck finding them online. I might end up taking the bracket off and seeing if the local machine shop can make one if I cant find it online.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Is there not a nut on the backside of the frame bracket to remove the stud and replace? As said, many shocks come with a new stud.
 

Biggnate81

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Posts
32
Reaction score
15
Location
Kentucky
First Name
Nathan
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Is there not a nut on the backside of the frame bracket to remove the stud and replace? As said, many shocks come with a new stud.

No, it looks like the stud is made onto the bracket from the factory. Its completely solid on the backside
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,410
Reaction score
28,213
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
C/K30 rear shock brackets have the stud made into them.

Personally, I wouldn't bother drilling out the frame rivets. I'd cut off the studs and weld new shock bolts in their place.
 

Turbo4whl

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2019
Posts
3,120
Reaction score
7,240
Location
Downingtown, PA
First Name
Wayne
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
Jimmy
Engine Size
350
Do you have a welder? @bucket 's idea is good. If not another idea would be just cut off the 3/8" threaded nut part of the stud. Center punch, exact center, drill and tap for a bolt.

Also looks like part of the old shock is still on the stud.
 

Biggnate81

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Posts
32
Reaction score
15
Location
Kentucky
First Name
Nathan
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Do you have a welder? @bucket 's idea is good. If not another idea would be just cut off the 3/8" threaded nut part of the stud. Center punch, exact center, drill and tap for a bolt.

Also looks like part of the old shock is still on the stud.

Yea I have a welder. I will probably either weld a new stud on or drill a hole and put a bolt in, not sure which route I will go yet. Lots of good ideas have been thrown out in this thread
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,410
Reaction score
28,213
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
Do you have a welder? @bucket 's idea is good. If not another idea would be just cut off the 3/8" threaded nut part of the stud. Center punch, exact center, drill and tap for a bolt.

Also looks like part of the old shock is still on the stud.

That's a pretty good idea too. I'd probably do that before my previously mentioned idea.
 

Biggnate81

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Posts
32
Reaction score
15
Location
Kentucky
First Name
Nathan
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
That's a pretty good idea too. I'd probably do that before my previously mentioned idea.

I like the idea of a bolt as opposed to a welded on stud just for the fact that if something ever happened I can change out a bolt instead of welding a new stud on. The only problem would be the passenger side mount is completely under the frame rail so i would have to cut a hole in the frame to access the mount to bolt a stud on. I'm going to keep doing some research and brainstorming and see what I can come up with. I've still not ruled out making a whole new bracket, my brother in law works at the local machine shop so I could probably have them made up cheap. At any rate I'll post up my solution once I figure out what I'm doing lol.
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,410
Reaction score
28,213
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
The bolt would be where the nut and stud used to be. In place of just the broken off threaded part.
 

Biggnate81

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Posts
32
Reaction score
15
Location
Kentucky
First Name
Nathan
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Well guys as promised a post up with the solution that I went with. I decided just for simplicity to just drill a hole and add a stud even though I really thought about fabricating a whole new bracket. Anyways I cut off the stud about 1/16" away from the bracket so I could still see where it was at. I then center punched it and drilled a small hole so I could grind it flush and then just drilled out the hole to fit the stud. One issue I did have was the factory replacement rear shocks I bought do not fit the new stud so I'm going the have to send them back. I also learned that it's about impossible to shop for shocks by the eyelet size, and unfortunately the replacement KYBs I ordered I couldn't change out the top bushing so that it would fit the stud. I did notice the front shocks do fit the stud, just the shock itself is way to short to work on the rear. So my solution was to order extended front shocks (for lifted trucks) I made sure that the travel on them was roughly the same distance as the factory ones. They should be in Friday so I can see if it will work, fingers crossed.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,085
Posts
949,083
Members
36,165
Latest member
Norm310
Top