Rockauto doesn't have a "kit" but they sell all the parts you need. They are cheaper than most local stores, especially if you get it all shipped at one time.
For my K25 I replaced ball joints and tie rods, so I can give you some specific pointers.
- You need to pull the hub, spindle and axle to replace ball joints, so there is a lot that has to come off. Once you get it there you can borrow the ball joint press from Autozone or Advance Auto Parts. I also bought the special 4WD socket at Autozone, and found there are three different types. Somehow I picked the right one the first time.
- I removed the steering arm from the hub on driver's side. I can't recall if you must remove the arm to use the ball joint tool, but for some reason I thought it was necessary. The three bolts on the arm are really tight (impact gun got a workout), have special tapered washers, and should be reinstalled with self-locking nuts. Not really that hard, but a PIA.
- You also have to pull the axle on each side, and the combination of hub, spindle and axle has multiple seals (wheel bearing seal, axle/hub seal, and a flat rubber gasket, IIRC) as you pull it apart. The parts diagrams are hard to read, so I ended up making a couple more trips to the store to get the right seals. Take pictures of the inside of the hub and all the parts as you go along, or at least do only one side at a time so that you make sure you know how it goes back together.
- The upper ball joints will come with a new upper ball joint adjusting sleeve, which is screwed into the top of the hub (it works like a race that the ball joint pin fits into). Removing this sleeve requires a special tool like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRDEG/ . I don't know if this sleeve really wears out, but I got the tool and replaced it.
- For new tie rods you need to make sure they match the configuration of your truck. GM changed the design a couple of times, and the threads are sometimes different, so it does make a difference. On a 4WD straight axle the tie rods are used to adjust toe-in. Orientation of the tie rods and clamps is significant to avoid interference, but you can probably just match the length of the old tie rods to the new and alignment will be fine.
- Most references to an "inner tie rod" are talking about the ends of the drag link, which you may also want to replace since it will tighten up the steering. The drag link is also used to center the steering wheel. If you replace the drag link you should take pictures and measurements first. It has two clamps and the two ends are probably not identical. Both the link and the clamps need to be oriented properly to ensure they won't hit anything and catch, regardless of axle movement and steering geometry changes.
