Bvllsh!t on craigslist.

[MrMarty51]

http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/4647012053.html

Dadgummmmmit, that is nice.

 

[Skweegle89]

Dadgummmmmit, that is nice.

Nice indeed, but how does one justify dropping 20k on a 50 year old car that still needs work? I know people do it all the time, but I don't foresee a time in my life where I just have such a fat bankroll that I could be able to do something like that.

 

[bucket]

Nice indeed, but how does one justify dropping 20k on a 50 year old car that still needs work? I know people do it all the time, but I don't foresee a time in my life where I just have such a fat bankroll that I could be able to do something like that.

Keep in mind it's the asking price, but I do believe it's an easy 15K car. It's a very solid and original looking car, and even if the engine/trans aren't original, it's adds a good amount of value to it. Who wouldn't want a 409 and 4 speed?

 

[Skweegle89]

Keep in mind it's the asking price, but I do believe it's an easy 15K car. It's a very solid and original looking car, and even if the engine/trans aren't original, it's adds a good amount of value to it. Who wouldn't want a 409 and 4 speed?

Oh I agree, and Im not saying its not worth it, that's just a lot of scratch to throw down for a 50 year old car. I'm more of a $5000 Elco guy lol.

 

[Skweegle89]

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/4644926421.html

This is more my speed.

 

[bucket]

Oh I agree, and Im not saying its not worth it, that's just a lot of scratch to throw down for a 50 year old car. I'm more of a $5000 Elco guy lol.

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/4644926421.html

This is more my speed.

I know what you mean, even that Elco is much higher priced than the stuff I can usually afford. I'd like to say I'd spend 20K on a car if I had it... but in all honesty, I'd probably just end up buying several cars like that one you picked out.

 

[Skweegle89]

I know what you mean, even that Elco is much higher priced than the stuff I can usually afford. I'd like to say I'd spend 20K on a car if I had it... but in all honesty, I'd probably just end up buying several cars like that one you picked out.

lol why buy one when you could buy 4? In all actuality I cant afford to pay attention at the moment. I have 4 bald 33s on my 85 and winter will be here before you know it. I cant replace the tires until I can dig up the scratch to replace the front springs because the bald tires already rub bad even in small turns. Wishful thinking though.

 

[MrMarty51]

I too am one broke soul. If it cost a nickel to leave a ****, I`d have to stand there and grind them out.
I do not bash anyone that does have the money for their purchases though, and, I was raised up in the generation of the 348 and 409 engines, they were a real box of torque for as old and ancient as they were/are, if I had the scratch, I`d jump on that car in an instant, after getting the price lowered a bit.
Envy is the roots of socialism and greed is the beginning of communism, juz sayin.

 

[marks86]

Good explanation that I have stored in the clouds...

Tachometer Testing

Look closely at the back of the tachometer, you can see the markings as to where each lead needs to go (COIL, GND, 12V). Tachometers are very easy to hook up and test on an V-8 engine, especially if you have one around with an HEI distributor (HEI's have a 'TACH' terminal right on the distributor cap). If you have anything around with the old points distributor, then the terminal marked COIL on the tachometer goes to the (-) side of the coil. The 12V terminal of the tachometer and GND terminal are self explanatory, you need any 12V power source and a ground. If you do not have original wiring pigtail then a .250 female spade crimp-on connector on the end of a wire works fine. When tachometers start to go bad they read high, like 1200 RPM at idle, and get worse as the RPM’s increase. Having a known good tach in the vehicle to compare it with is a real plus. At idle you should see 500-800 RPM and a quick tap of the throttle should see 2500 RPM or so. As some go bad the needle responds very slow to RPM increases or it will “stick” as it moves forward. When they really get bad they will bury immediately or not register at all.

edit: link... http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/interior/factory tachometers.htm

the problem is. the only chevy truck I have has a 12v cummins in it....

 

[Skweegle89]

Is it weird that I love vans? http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/4622628051.html

 

[350runner]

No your not... side note there is a tint shop here in Dallas with one of those chopped/ shortened. I'll try and get a pic of it next time I'm in that area.

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[Skweegle89]

I would throw some side pipes on it and drive the wheels off it. There is a guy around here that used to have one. He would drive around the bars on Fridays and Saturdays and give drunk folks rides home for like $10 a pop. Had a decal shop make some stickers to put on the doors that said "Jammin for Jesus" so that maybe the cops would leave him alone.

 

[350runner]

Got these off Google maps

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[Old77]

 

[Skweegle89]