Bvllsh!t on craigslist.

[CSFJ]

Can we post stuff from eBay too? I'm trying to sell my old spark plug and am hoping somebody will find this bizarre enough to buy it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18170579758...em=&sspagename=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

There's actually another thread on here dedicated to ebay listings.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yep, as said, we have a section for that too.

eBay and Craigslist Listings go in this section.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=29

 

[Don5]

^Thanks for posting that link HR. I have been wanting to change mine out on my 18' landscape trailer. I use it to haul my Kubota tractor and 4 wheelers. It only has the brakes on one axle also. It has two 3500 pound axles and I don't know what it weighs. My guess is around 1500-2000 pounds. It is a heavy son of a gun. The upside is that it tows straight and does not wander like some of the light ones.

 

[mistaake]

There's actually another thread on here dedicated to ebay listings.

Guessed I missed that. Derp

 

[HotRodPC]

Can we post stuff from eBay too? I'm trying to sell my old spark plug and am hoping somebody will find this bizarre enough to buy it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18170579758...em=&sspagename=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

There's actually another thread on here dedicated to ebay listings.

^Thanks for posting that link HR. I have been wanting to change mine out on my 18' landscape trailer. I use it to haul my Kubota tractor and 4 wheelers. It only has the brakes on one axle also. It has two 3500 pound axles and I don't know what it weighs. My guess is around 1500-2000 pounds. It is a heavy son of a gun. The upside is that it tows straight and does not wander like some of the light ones.

Yep, it's easier just to buy the whole kit instead of just the shoes. This way you're also getting new spring hardware that's usually well rusted up, new electro magnets and the whole kit and kaboodle. Just eaiser IMO and the peace of mind knowing it's all new again and isn't likely going to fail.

Yep, you're prolly right about the 1500lb range for an 18ft landscape trailer. IIRC my 16ft utility tandem axle weighed right at 1000lbs. So 2 feet longer, then more metal for the cage, mesh, racks and gate you're prolly at the 1500 plus your gear but I'd still think just under the 2000lb range and brakes on 1 axle should be just fine for that. It's when you get into hauling heavy trucks is when you need to consider brakes on both axles.

This trailer only had brakes on 1 axle. It did fine for the 50 mile tow at 65mph, but the 3/4 ton Burb didn't have a motor or trans in it either and I could tell it would have made a difference to have the 2nd set of brakes if I needed a fast stop. Biggest part is knowing how to drive with heavier trailer. Allowing more space, don't be tailgating, and know how to use your brake controller manual braking feature if it starts to get squirlly back there. I've seen several people lose it with trailers. Once they start swaying, it's a bit touchy to get it back under control and the worse thing you can do is hit your towing vehicle brakes and put you right into a jackknife. Even brakes on 1 axle and a brake controller can get you out of the mess real quick no matter what the weight is, so at least have 1 axle with brakes if towing a vehicle.

 

[Old77]

that white burb makes me happy in the pants

 

[Roughneck714]

Im digging this k5 http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4948019890.html

 

[mistaake]

Yep, it's easier just to buy the whole kit instead of just the shoes. This way you're also getting new spring hardware that's usually well rusted up, new electro magnets and the whole kit and kaboodle. Just eaiser IMO and the peace of mind knowing it's all new again and isn't likely going to fail.

Yep, you're prolly right about the 1500lb range for an 18ft landscape trailer. IIRC my 16ft utility tandem axle weighed right at 1000lbs. So 2 feet longer, then more metal for the cage, mesh, racks and gate you're prolly at the 1500 plus your gear but I'd still think just under the 2000lb range and brakes on 1 axle should be just fine for that. It's when you get into hauling heavy trucks is when you need to consider brakes on both axles.

This trailer only had brakes on 1 axle. It did fine for the 50 mile tow at 65mph, but the 3/4 ton Burb didn't have a motor or trans in it either and I could tell it would have made a difference to have the 2nd set of brakes if I needed a fast stop. Biggest part is knowing how to drive with heavier trailer. Allowing more space, don't be tailgating, and know how to use your brake controller manual braking feature if it starts to get squirlly back there. I've seen several people lose it with trailers. Once they start swaying, it's a bit touchy to get it back under control and the worse thing you can do is hit your towing vehicle brakes and put you right into a jackknife. Even brakes on 1 axle and a brake controller can get you out of the mess real quick no matter what the weight is, so at least have 1 axle with brakes if towing a vehicle.

Is a trailer brake controller neccessary to use the brakes on the trailer? Or do the brakes on the trailer enable whenever it detects brake lights and the controller simply lets you adjust them, or how does that work?

 

[CSFJ]

You'll need a controller for the trailer brakes. The system is a little more complex than just seeing a brake light signal. The controller will allow you to dial in how much braking is applied, and allow you to operate the trailer brakes independently from the tow vehicle.

 

[mistaake]

You'll need a controller for the trailer brakes. The system is a little more complex than just seeing a brake light signal. The controller will allow you to dial in how much braking is applied, and allow you to operate the trailer brakes independently from the tow vehicle.

Gotcha, thanks.

 

[Roughneck714]

Nice cucv blazer with coms. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/4955843971.html

 

[Roughneck714]

Wish I had 5 grand laying around for a cummins swapped 84 crew cab like this one http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4960032909.html

 

[mistaake]

Nice cucv blazer with coms. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/4955843971.html

Now THAT is awesome.

 

[HotRodPC]

Is a trailer brake controller neccessary to use the brakes on the trailer? Or do the brakes on the trailer enable whenever it detects brake lights and the controller simply lets you adjust them, or how does that work?

Yep, Must have the controller. The controller is what regulates how the brakes area applied. If you hooked them to brake lights, then they'd likely just lock up, either off or on and that's it. The controller can also be adjusted on how agressive you want it to work. It's got an inertia switch in it. In short, works a bit like a thermostat and a mercury bubble. Also gives you the option to manually apply trailer brakes ONLY without touching the brake pedal on the tow vehicle. This is critical if you get into a bad sway. Just slow down the trailer ONLY and it'll pull it all back out straight and stop the sway.

 

[mistaake]

Yep, Must have the controller. The controller is what regulates how the brakes area applied. If you hooked them to brake lights, then they'd likely just lock up, either off or on and that's it. The controller can also be adjusted on how agressive you want it to work. It's got an inertia switch in it. In short, works a bit like a thermostat and a mercury bubble. Also gives you the option to manually apply trailer brakes ONLY without touching the brake pedal on the tow vehicle. This is critical if you get into a bad sway. Just slow down the trailer ONLY and it'll pull it all back out straight and stop the sway.

If I wanted to buy the trailer and bring it back home empty, I wouldn't NEED to have the trailer brake controller... it just wouldn't brake, right?