Broken Front Driveline CV Joint on K10/K1500

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dirtroadoutlaw

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Also, you want to spend that little bit more on spicer joints.
 

dirtroadoutlaw

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I would also like to add that those 1969 joints had virtually no wear. It was almost a shame to remove them. I might have a pic of the one I disassembled somewhere.....
 

crazy4offroad

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It's still a 3R joint though, not really an upgrade.
 

dirtroadoutlaw

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A 3r spicier is strong. You won't have much advantage by going bigger on the front unless you change your diff yoke along with everything else. Then you have the issues with the added weight of a larger assembly adding extra strain on the TC shortening the life of it.
 
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dirtroadoutlaw

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78shortandwide

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I was gonna try to just get rid of the carden joint and go with a single u joint on the front drive line connecting to the transfer case
 

crazy4offroad

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Bad thing about running a single joint on the t-case end of the front shaft is if both angles dont match (pinion and t-case) the driveline will vibrate. I dont drive mine in 4wd on the highway anymore so it's a non-issue for me.

As for the 3R being a strong u-joint, I have to disagree with that. It might be strong enough for a stock truck up to maybe 35" tires at best, beyond that be prepared to replace them a lot or come up with a new plan.

Here's some good info on driveshafts & u-joints, including torque ratings of various u-joints about halfway down the page... http://4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide.pdf
The 3R is slightly weaker than the 1330, maybe moreso in a double cardan configuration. I had just as much problem with the centering ball as the double u-joints themselves.
 
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78shortandwide

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Well the only time I'm in four wheel drive is when I'm off road I don't care about a little vibration from the front drive line
 

76stepsidechevy

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I'm thinking about doing th same for my front shaft. If I set up the pinion angle to work with the cv shaft I lose too much caster and the the truck is uncontrolable.
 

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