Rusty Nail
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2015
- Posts
- 10,041
- Reaction score
- 10,134
- Location
- the other side of the internet
- First Name
- Rusty
- Truck Year
- 1977
- Truck Model
- C20
- Engine Size
- 350sbc
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Fitment of converter to flexplate look fine. Typical gap from my opinion & experience... but geeee wizzzz that weld job! That.... that has me concerned although by eye looks decent. Just catching up now, still have a bit more comments to go through.Alright friends... I may have a WHACKED bell housing. I will share ALL of what I found, but I am specifically concerned about my bell housing... check this out fellas... Considering my alignment pin is in the realm of this shotty work, I really hope someone didn’t break the whole corner off and then try to weld it up by eye.. kind of a precise piece there...
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Trans pump seal leak (if you look close it features my seeping trans pan gasket too )
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Not sure why the starter is chewed up... but there’s that.
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Here is a video demo of the torque converter. At the end, I wiggle the converter and it makes noise. Let me know what y’all think....
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The wiggle at the video's end looks like pump play? To ME but - I don't know what that is OR looks like even.
Are you talking about the bushing or the bearing in the front pump?Fitment of converter to flexplate look fine. Typical gap from my opinion & experience... but geeee wizzzz that weld job! That.... that has me concerned although by eye looks decent. Just catching up now, still have a bit more comments to go through.
You are right about the side to side wiggle. I didnt watch it all the way through. I don't like that either. For sure. I bet you will find worn bushing at the minimum.
Ohhhh my bad. Totally figured there was a bearing in there hahahah. Well considering melt seal is bad, I need to tear into it anyways.I'm talking about the bushing. There's a seal. Then bushing. Then pump gears. No bearing... That's not what the converter rides on or touches. Only seal, bushing, & gears.... or input shafts. Strain on those pump gears due to worn bushing is 1 cause of the whining...and will also affect flexplate. Too much vibration & stress.
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Ohhhh my bad. Totally figured there was a bearing in there hahahah. Well considering melt seal is bad, I need to tear into it anyways.
Now this ugly repair... do we see any concern with this? If this is problematic, I will need a new transmission.... not liking that...
Exactly. I will reach out to him and see what he thinks. I agree with you, I feel like this definitely is not helping matters.I agree. I don't like the look of the housing. Im quite sure the bell housing is part of the case, unlike many modern trans which sucks butt. Then you'd have to find another case. No way to really be sure until it's in front of you. Better yet, your trans guy friend. If he's trust worthy, I'd go with what he suggests. The case makes a huge difference in how a trans operates. Same with line up holes, and why we use dowels. It's so important to be spot on.
I do not know if you are working on a C or a K. This only applies to a C . You can change the flex plate without pulling the transmission. Buy some bolts the same length as the starter bolts, pull your bottom 2 bell housing bolts replace them with the long bolts. Unbolt the transmiision and torque converter and slide them back, you will have just enough R&R the flex plate. Again make sure your transmission locating dowels are in place.
Everything is internal balance except 400 and 454. (Stock stroke Chevy sb and bbc.)
If you had a 350 fp on a 400 or vice versa you would know real quick.
If your crank pilot and the nose of your converter is not correct that will put your entire trans in a bind.
I’ll say it again first thing to check are those to measurements and verify that the converter turns freely in the back of the pilot.
You say the engine has been rebuilt? Does it have an aftermarket Chinese crankshaft in it? Was the converter made in China?
They are not famous for precision tolerance and machining.
Does your starter grind? Is the starter gear stuck against the flexplate?
This will cause a horrible whine.
Is the engine block cracked where the starter bolts up? Causing the starter to shift and bind.
You should do some more diagnostic checks and inspection before throwing parts a a problem that your not 100% sure of.
Triple check all the small stuff before replacing or buying anything else. You will be glad you did and upset if you don’t.
All good input from everyone just back up take it slow and try to figure out how all these symptoms are related.
Does your fluid color look good? Does the trans slip? Is the flexplate rubbing or grinding against anything? Keep checking until the problem reveals itself then repair that.
This nifty method works with a K truck too. Well, maybe not with the big honkin' 203, but it works with the 205 and 208.
The '86-up small blocks (1-piece seal) have a flexplate with a balance weight. I don't think that applies here though.
That whacked case looks suspicious...
Exactly. I will reach out to him and see what he thinks. I agree with you, I feel like this definitely is not helping matters.