brake issues on k5

[NCTyphoonKid]

having some issues with my k5 brakes, at a stoplight if I sit at it for about probably a minute the brakes lose pressure and the truck takes off and if I hit the brakes there's none there. Has fluid in the master cylinder and haven't seen any leaks. It also pulls to the left some as well on braking. Does this sound like the master cylinder? I can get a new master and brake booster for a little over a 100 bucks at advance for it

 

[bucket]

Either a fluid leak or a bad master cylinder. If you have power assist, the booster is OK. The pull is likely from a sticking caliper or a a bad brake hose. The side it pulls to is the side that is fine.

 

[NCTyphoonKid]

Either a fluid leak or a bad master cylinder. If you have power assist, the booster is OK. The pull is likely from a sticking caliper or a a bad brake hose. The side it pulls to is the side that is fine.

I'm thinking its the master cyl I haven't found any leaks. Is there anything I can for a sticking caliper other than replace it?

 

[bucket]

Calipers are really cheap. And hoses are also cheap and easy to replace.

 

[TheGolem]

I'm thinking its the master cyl I haven't found any leaks. Is there anything I can for a sticking caliper other than replace it?

Its the master cylinder. best to buy the new caliper, theyre 30 bucks. Check your rubber brake hoses real good though. I noticed when mine were bent, I could see cracks that were not visible at first glance. Maybe not an immediate problem, but certainly enough to make one cautious. I literally just did mine this morning. My caliper was seized on the driver side, and the truck was pulling to the right. bleeding the brakes is a real pain in the hindquarters though

 

[NCTyphoonKid]

Its the master cylinder. best to buy the new caliper, theyre 30 bucks. Check your rubber brake hoses real good though. I noticed when mine were bent, I could see cracks that were not visible at first glance. Maybe not an immediate problem, but certainly enough to make one cautious. I literally just did mine this morning. My caliper was seized on the driver side, and the truck was pulling to the right. bleeding the brakes is a real pain in the hindquarters though

Did you bleed all the brakes? And is it best to gravity bleed them? What's the easiest way to I know start at the furthest and work your way closer

 

[HotRodPC]

That's called pedal fade. Usually, Not always, but USUALLY is the master cyl. Can of course be the calipers or rear brake cyls too, just that it' usually a pretty bad leak if it's leaking at one of the wheels and you can feel it in the pedal even after a minute or so. You can feel it at the master just holding pressure at a light cuz it's right there at the pedal itself.

And don't think just cuz you can't find the leak, that it's not the master cylinder. It's an internal leak where fluid is getting past the piston so it's common you won't see any fluid leakage and still have pedal fade. Another indicator it's the master cylinder.

 

[NCTyphoonKid]

I ordered a new master cylinder, calipers and pads. What's the easiest way to bleed them and I heard I could gravity bleed them as well. I guess if I gravity bleed them I just crack the bleeders open all at once?

 

[Georgeb]

I ordered a new master cylinder, calipers and pads. What's the easiest way to bleed them and I heard I could gravity bleed them as well. I guess if I gravity bleed them I just crack the bleeders open all at once?

I would swap the calipers and pads first then bench bleed the master and install it. If you dont let the old master go dry while you change the calipers you will be able to gavity bleed each side as you work. Then install the new master. If you pump up the brakes with the old master before you chang it and you are careful not to introduce air into the lines up there you may get by without any more bleeding required. This method has worked for me a few times so.....

 

[NCTyphoonKid]

I would swap the calipers and pads first then bench bleed the master and install it. If you dont let the old master go dry while you change the calipers you will be able to gavity bleed each side as you work. Then install the new master. If you pump up the brakes with the old master before you chang it and you are careful not to introduce air into the lines up there you may get by without any more bleeding required. This method has worked for me a few times so.....

So gravity bleed each side after assembly or do both at once? And with bench bleeding the master do I just need to get like a bleeder kit from autozone? I've never really bled brakes before so new to this

 

[Georgeb]

So gravity bleed each side after assembly or do both at once? And with bench bleeding the master do I just need to get like a bleeder kit from autozone? I've never really bled brakes before so new to this

You can bleed both sides at the same time but I would do the right side then the left the new master cylinder should come with a bleed kit. if it doesn't then you will want to get one. Pretty easy stuff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEPXgDGU6_0

 

[NCTyphoonKid]

I got the brakes put on lastnight and finished up this morning and the pedal feels great and the test drive went great as well

 

[Georgeb]

I got the brakes put on lastnight and finished up this morning and the pedal feels great and the test drive went great as well

Sweet!