Brake hose replacement

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dhamp

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Thanks for all the help guys! Can y'all help me figure out how I'll find time to work on it again too?? :sad72:
 

robert8096

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Call in sick and work on the truck. :emotions33:
 

HotRodPC

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I soaked 'em both down w/PB on Sat. I'll soak 'em again before I try to loosen the hard line. Yeah, I'm using flared wrenches. I also had to put a new MC in when I did the caliper and rotor. Got an SAE set then. Nothing fancy. A cheap set of Duralast. For what little I'm expecting to use them, I think they'll do fine. If that hard line gives me too much of a problem, I'll have the propane torch handy to give it a mild warming. I'd hate to burn my truck AND my house down trying to install a $15 hose. From the looks of if though, it looks pretty clean and rust free. I hope looks are deceiving in this case!

Ohh yeah, by all means try it first wo heat. I thought you have tried it already and couldn't get it. They are tough though.
 

HotRodPC

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Thanks for all the help guys! Can y'all help me figure out how I'll find time to work on it again too?? :sad72:

Yep, Call in and say something is wrong with your eyes. You just can't SEE your ass going in to work today.
 

89Suburban

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Yep, Call in and say something is wrong with your eyes. You just can't SEE your ass going in to work today.

Put up a pic of hamburger ass in here and he can use that excuse. :roflbow:
 

HotRodPC

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Put up a pic of hamburger ass in here and he can use that excuse. :roflbow:

NO, That is a real eye problem. Eye Bleach and an Exorcism is the only cure for that.
 

dhamp

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Well, after 3 failed attempts, I took it to a shop I'd been wanting to try out. Labor was expected to take an hour and cost $80 since I already had the part and the fluid they bled off was new and could be put back in the reservoir. However, since I'd buggered it all up, it took 1.5 hours. BUUUUUT.....since he didn't do it on Sat like promised, and I was paying cash, he met me in the middle at $100 flat. Well worth it IMO. Even the mechanic caught hell getting that old one out. Got a lighting issue now that I'll bring up in the appropriate section.
 

HotRodPC

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Glad it's fixed and your satisfied with the cost. I probably wouldn't have been. Obviously the expected hour was a flat rate book. Those guys beat flat rate books all the time and sure don't give back or give a discount when they do it in 2/3 or 3/4 the time. But they're quick to charge additional on the few it takes a bit longer.
 

dhamp

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Glad it's fixed and your satisfied with the cost. I probably wouldn't have been. Obviously the expected hour was a flat rate book. Those guys beat flat rate books all the time and sure don't give back or give a discount when they do it in 2/3 or 3/4 the time. But they're quick to charge additional on the few it takes a bit longer.

I know what you mean. They had me by the balls though since I'd struck out on my own. However, the tech did say that it took him over 2 hrs, but they'd only charged be for the 1.5, and I paid for 1.25. Knowing what a MF pain it was, I didn't even hesitate.
 

HotRodPC

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I see your point too. For only $20 I"m sure it was worth it. Just gets to me sometimes how techs, or the bossman anyway, the guy with the clean hands making all the money, takes advantage when they can.
 

dhamp

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I hear you. And this is a small shop out of a prefab metal building with only 3 bays. The lobby and office areas were made from screwing particle board to the walls. VERY basic. The owner was almost a little too nonchalant when I dealt with him, but not enough to be irritating to me. I've been needing somebody cheap for those things here and there that I don't feel comfortable taking on or have no clue how to do. I've had this truck since 2002 and the only time it's been in a shop was to have a complete brake system flush and this.

EDIT: And trust me, I know what you mean about the rip offs. My best friend is a service mgr for Nissan and he tells me all the time about what they would have done if I was a regular customer vs his friend.
 
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HotRodPC

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That's why I only pay people to balance tires and do wheel alignments.

I do pay to have R-12 put in the box van, but I think it's time to convert that bitch anyway. It has a leak somewhere and I have to have 1.5 lbs added every other year. So it'll be a tough leak to find but being that slow. Hopefully this summer I may try to convert it, and find the leak.
 

dhamp

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That's why I only pay people to balance tires and do wheel alignments.

I do pay to have R-12 put in the box van, but I think it's time to convert that bitch anyway. It has a leak somewhere and I have to have 1.5 lbs added every other year. So it'll be a tough leak to find but being that slow. Hopefully this summer I may try to convert it, and find the leak.

I still have to get my A/C repaired. It's been "the year I'm going to do it" for the last 3 years and crap always comes up. My DD is needing normal wear & tear stuff here and there and my house needs painting, so not sure if it'll be this year or not. Another year goes by......:Violin:
 

jncn598

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Great tips in this thread.
I figured out the hard way that its a lot easier to do the driver side first since there are no fuel lines in the way. Figuring out how the fittings work while fighting with the fuel lines sucks.

For my 82, its pretty easy if you take the nut loose from the flare fitting with a 3/8" crows foot wrench. Once the brake line is out of the way, use a 1" socket to get the big nut loose that presses against the inside of the frame rail.

For the passenger side, loosen the fitting that holds the fuel lines against the frame rail. That should give you enough play to squeeze in a 1" socket on the big nut.
 

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