Belltech 4/6 installed

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mktsc

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Big weekend. Installed a Belltech 4/6 drop, shocks, new rear leafs from NPD (stock 1550lb load), new front rotors/pads/wheel bearings/backing plates. The stock suspension sagged so bad that the drivers side was a full 3" lower than the passenger side.

It was pretty straightforward, my uncle who's owned the truck since new was very diligent about undercoating, and every single bolt came off with the impact gun. Nothing broken or stripped, and I only needed the breaker bar once. Had to clearance the lower control arms to clear the wheels, and needed to bend the front brake lines at the calipers out of the way. Other than that the installation was very straightforward. I did have to retorque my u-bolts because the axle was rotating when I put the truck in gear. I also had to set the pinion angle correctly before I did because the brackets actually leave a significant range of motion.

I'm going to let the front settle for a week or two, then likely pull the front springs and take about an inch out of them to sit the front down a little bit more. Measuring from the rockers to the ground, the truck is dead level, but it appears to have some negative rake which I want to dial out. Truck rides absolutely as stock with the fresh suspension. With the new leafs, I had plenty of room between the axle and frame, so I didn't install the notch that came with the kit.

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Old77

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LOVE it!!!! :rocking:
 

mktsc

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Thanks! Getting used to how low it is! I love that it essentially drives just as good as it did before. No compromises in ride...
 

J Knight

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Dig it!!!
 

Old77

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Thanks! Getting used to how low it is! I love that it essentially drives just as good as it did before. No compromises in ride...

yeah man. when done right it drives as good or better than OEM. Nicely done, sir :waytogo: Perfect height for a driver.
 

mktsc

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So the kit came with a 3" drop spindle and a 1" lowering spring. I think the front end needs to go down another inch.

Does anyone know how low you can safely go without negatively affecting geometry and drivability? I'm thinking a half a coil should give me another inch...
 

J Knight

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So the kit came with a 3" drop spindle and a 1" lowering spring. I think the front end needs to go down another inch.

Does anyone know how low you can safely go without negatively affecting geometry and drivability? I'm thinking a half a coil should give me another inch...
When you go more than 2.5in-3in of spring drop you start to run out of alignment bolt to correct the camber. Cutting 1/2 round off the coils can be done but it makes it real hard to seat in the lower control arm due to the shape of the pocket. IMO it looks like you only have a 3in drop in the front. From what I have seen in the past, drop spring don't seem to have the amount of drop advertised.

Did you install drop shackles in the rear with the flip kit?

Have you considered file 13-ing that step bumper?

And much thanks to you. I found your posts really informative when I was making my decision on which parts to order. I searched a ton...
:cheers:
 

mktsc

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I did not install drop shackles in the rear. I just did new leafs and axle flip.

I've definitely considered ditching the farm bumper, but I'm looking for the right option. I'd like a smaller bumper, and I'd prefer one that's used and beat up a little bit to match the truck. I also considered just sectioning the one I've got, but haven't decided on anything yet.

What would you say my best option is to sit the front down a little bit. It's not terrible, I'm getting used to it the way it is, but I still think I might like to lower it a bit still.

Also, how do you adjust camber up front?
 

J Knight

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I did not install drop shackles in the rear. I just did new leafs and axle flip.

I've definitely considered ditching the farm bumper, but I'm looking for the right option. I'd like a smaller bumper, and I'd prefer one that's used and beat up a little bit to match the truck. I also considered just sectioning the one I've got, but haven't decided on anything yet.

What would you say my best option is to sit the front down a little bit. It's not terrible, I'm getting used to it the way it is, but I still think I might like to lower it a bit still.

Also, how do you adjust camber up front?

Your options to get another inch lower in the front are, cut half a coil off the 1in drop springs, get a set of 2in drop springs, or cut one round of a set of stock springs. IMO, you dont appear to have much of a 1in spring dtop at all.

The camber is adjusted by adding or removing shims between the frame and the cross shaft of the upper control arms. Its been my experience that two 1/8th thivk shims added to each of the alignment bolts gets you pretty close after a 2in spring drop but a trip to the alignment shop is still required.
 

mktsc

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My camber seems pretty spot on, so you're probably right about me not having much of a spring drop. I could probably take a full coil out of the spring, but I think I'm going to start with 1/2 and see what it gets me.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I should be able to unbolt the bottom shock mount and break loose the bottom balljoint and the lower a-arm should come free along with the spring. Meaning I don't have to disassemble the front hub, wheel bearings, brakes, etc. Just thinking about the easiest way to get at the spring...
 

J Knight

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My camber seems pretty spot on, so you're probably right about me not having much of a spring drop. I could probably take a full coil out of the spring, but I think I'm going to start with 1/2 and see what it gets me.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I should be able to unbolt the bottom shock mount and break loose the bottom balljoint and the lower a-arm should come free along with the spring. Meaning I don't have to disassemble the front hub, wheel bearings, brakes, etc. Just thinking about the easiest way to get at the spring...

Correct, you dont have to remove the rotor or hub, just the lower ball joint, lower shocl bolt, and tierod end.
 

mktsc

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Awesome. Why the tie-rod end?
 

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