Autometer Gauges
- Thread starter custodian
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Raider L
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- Shreveport, LA
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- William
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 355
@custodian,
You bet. I'm going to give you the "Sport Comp" gauge #'s because that's what most people use. You can go on the Autometer site to look for different types and styles of gauges because they've got a ton of them. Also, I have the 2 5/8" diam. size as well. Also, I'll include the prices. I used the "In Dash" speedo and tach which fits perfectly in the two center holes in our dash where the speedo and the fuel level gauge go. They measure 3 3/8" in diameter.
Oil Pressure #3522 0-100 lbs. $94.06
Water Temp. #3531 100-250 F. $83.11
volts #3592 8-18 volts $70.10
amps #3586 $76.95
fuel press. #3411 0-15 lbs. $73.51
fuel quantity #3514 0-90 ohm $71.57
speedometer mechanical 0-120 mph #3992 $131.16
tach 8K electrical #3991 $157.32
You bet. I'm going to give you the "Sport Comp" gauge #'s because that's what most people use. You can go on the Autometer site to look for different types and styles of gauges because they've got a ton of them. Also, I have the 2 5/8" diam. size as well. Also, I'll include the prices. I used the "In Dash" speedo and tach which fits perfectly in the two center holes in our dash where the speedo and the fuel level gauge go. They measure 3 3/8" in diameter.
Oil Pressure #3522 0-100 lbs. $94.06
Water Temp. #3531 100-250 F. $83.11
volts #3592 8-18 volts $70.10
amps #3586 $76.95
fuel press. #3411 0-15 lbs. $73.51
fuel quantity #3514 0-90 ohm $71.57
speedometer mechanical 0-120 mph #3992 $131.16
tach 8K electrical #3991 $157.32
Raider L
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2020
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- Location
- Shreveport, LA
- First Name
- William
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 355
I've got a new fuel pressure gauge coming, whenever they get the parts in to build it, I'm #8 in the cue. Isn't that strange? I would have thought they would have had a bunch on hand. Must be some of that "just in time" manufacturing. I actually asked them, "This isn't because of China witholding chips or anything is it?" The Autometer guy chuckled and said, "No." "It's a vendor issue."
So, I guess they farm out some parts. But when it comes in I'll do a little build reinstalling it back in because there is a particular process getting the anti-freeze into the hose, I use a syringe, and reconnecting it back to the guage. Since I already have the isolator which is in the engine compartment and the hose from it goes to the fuel line splitter, a hose comes from the fuel pump and up to the splitter and there is another hose in the other port and it goes to the carb. Since you can't run fuel inside the cab the other side of the diaphragm going inside the cab is full of anti-freeze. And that's the hose going to the back of the gauge. The trick is getting the fittings together without spilling any anti-freeze or there will be an air bubble in the hose you can't get out unless you start over again. So it's a quick of the hands act. I got it the first time but that was 25 years ago and I'm not as quick as I was then. This time ought to be fun.
Why a fuel pressure gauge? If your engine just stops and you wonder why you would try and crank your engine. If you look at the fuel pressure gauge and it's not showing any pressure that means your fuel pump most likely has gone out and no need to figure it out any further. You may need to look at that fuel pressure "isolator" because unless you're going to keep the fuel pressure gauge in the engine compartment, or up on the hood '60's style, you'll want it in the cab in your dash. P/N #5376 $115.13, and the 4 ft. of AN 3 hose kit for the isolator P/N #3235 $66.13. I know all that sounds expensive but if you want the complete gauge set that's how much it will run. Now, of course there is always Stewart Warner which are excellent gauges, and there is VDO guages. I almost chose them to go in my truck I like them a lot, but VDO didn't have all the gauges I wanted and Summit didn't carry them back then either so I went with Autometer they had everything plus some. I was just for fun looking at getting a differential oil temp gauge, and the manifold temp gauge like an airplane has. See, I wanted it to look as much like a plane as I could. I still have three gauges I haven't found a place for yet, a trans. temp. gauge, a oil temp. gauge, and a trans, pressure gauge. They are in a three group pod together and are Autometer "Competition Series" gauges which are 2" gauges with a chrome finish. They're nice.
So, I guess they farm out some parts. But when it comes in I'll do a little build reinstalling it back in because there is a particular process getting the anti-freeze into the hose, I use a syringe, and reconnecting it back to the guage. Since I already have the isolator which is in the engine compartment and the hose from it goes to the fuel line splitter, a hose comes from the fuel pump and up to the splitter and there is another hose in the other port and it goes to the carb. Since you can't run fuel inside the cab the other side of the diaphragm going inside the cab is full of anti-freeze. And that's the hose going to the back of the gauge. The trick is getting the fittings together without spilling any anti-freeze or there will be an air bubble in the hose you can't get out unless you start over again. So it's a quick of the hands act. I got it the first time but that was 25 years ago and I'm not as quick as I was then. This time ought to be fun.
Why a fuel pressure gauge? If your engine just stops and you wonder why you would try and crank your engine. If you look at the fuel pressure gauge and it's not showing any pressure that means your fuel pump most likely has gone out and no need to figure it out any further. You may need to look at that fuel pressure "isolator" because unless you're going to keep the fuel pressure gauge in the engine compartment, or up on the hood '60's style, you'll want it in the cab in your dash. P/N #5376 $115.13, and the 4 ft. of AN 3 hose kit for the isolator P/N #3235 $66.13. I know all that sounds expensive but if you want the complete gauge set that's how much it will run. Now, of course there is always Stewart Warner which are excellent gauges, and there is VDO guages. I almost chose them to go in my truck I like them a lot, but VDO didn't have all the gauges I wanted and Summit didn't carry them back then either so I went with Autometer they had everything plus some. I was just for fun looking at getting a differential oil temp gauge, and the manifold temp gauge like an airplane has. See, I wanted it to look as much like a plane as I could. I still have three gauges I haven't found a place for yet, a trans. temp. gauge, a oil temp. gauge, and a trans, pressure gauge. They are in a three group pod together and are Autometer "Competition Series" gauges which are 2" gauges with a chrome finish. They're nice.
Last edited:
Raider L
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2020
- Posts
- 1,892
- Reaction score
- 1,001
- Location
- Shreveport, LA
- First Name
- William
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 355
@custodian,
Correction: The hose size is AN-4, not 3. This is real important because the fitting in the back of the isolator is AN-4. And you can get 4 ft. of AN-4 hose, although depending on your setup you may need less. In that case you can cut off however much you need from the four foot length. If you've already bought the AN-3 hose, sorry, don't worry you'll find a use for it somewhere, or send it back whichever.
The stainless steel braided hose, if you wish to use it, can be purchased on the Summit site, or you may buy it from Autometer. You may prefer the cloth or nylon braided covering hoses better, although most automotive rubber hoses, if you choose them don't fit the AN fittings very well due to dimensional differneces unless it's made for AN fittings. In that case the rubber hose may be your preference so it matches the other hoses in you truck. You can also find that kind on Summit or Autometer. Even Holley makes that kind of hoses and you can buy them from those places. If you have a hydraulics business in your town they can or may have them make up whatever you want. Just make sure you give them your AN-4 fittings. This is due to the fact that racing type fittings like you will find Autometer or the manufactures like Russell, or Aeroquip make are aircraft fittings and have a different angle on the flare of the male and female fitting ends. Auto and industrial flare angles are not the same and could leak especially if the hose is under pressure.
Correction: The hose size is AN-4, not 3. This is real important because the fitting in the back of the isolator is AN-4. And you can get 4 ft. of AN-4 hose, although depending on your setup you may need less. In that case you can cut off however much you need from the four foot length. If you've already bought the AN-3 hose, sorry, don't worry you'll find a use for it somewhere, or send it back whichever.
The stainless steel braided hose, if you wish to use it, can be purchased on the Summit site, or you may buy it from Autometer. You may prefer the cloth or nylon braided covering hoses better, although most automotive rubber hoses, if you choose them don't fit the AN fittings very well due to dimensional differneces unless it's made for AN fittings. In that case the rubber hose may be your preference so it matches the other hoses in you truck. You can also find that kind on Summit or Autometer. Even Holley makes that kind of hoses and you can buy them from those places. If you have a hydraulics business in your town they can or may have them make up whatever you want. Just make sure you give them your AN-4 fittings. This is due to the fact that racing type fittings like you will find Autometer or the manufactures like Russell, or Aeroquip make are aircraft fittings and have a different angle on the flare of the male and female fitting ends. Auto and industrial flare angles are not the same and could leak especially if the hose is under pressure.
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