Yah. Marine Rated Battery Fuse. MRBF
This is a 600A SkyCraft surplus buss bar, mounted to a slab of mud flap, isolated from the firewall with a rubber inner tube protective flap/shroud.
Hanging the fuses from a chunk of mud flap keeps the rain and mud off the circuitry.
Only the top 4 stainless screws penetrate the firewall or the inner tube shroud.
All my wires incorporate a drip bend in the wires, from the bar back up to the firewall harness areas, the battery(s) or the alternator.
This is a drip-dry downward wiring configuration.
You could make a plastic housing for it as well, if neatness matters.
I would refrain from the metal box, unless you know how to ground and insulate it.
Suite yourself.
MRBF ice cube fuses:
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Dual lug, no fuses in picture:
(2 different rated fuses on 2 separate 3/8" lugs from the buss bar).
Bay Marine:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZGR96T/
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Single lug with fuse in picture:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LC6B7DR/
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These are widely used for marine applications, so they work in very wet conditions, by design.
You can find spares at any US Marine store or marina.
They are everywhere.
https://www.mouser.com/c/?q=Eaton Marine Fuses
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My battery feeds the bar.
Bar has 4 small 10/24 screws for additional 12v/12ga wiring connections on both sides, which the cheaper 300A units do not have. 3/8" high grade stainless hardware, double nuts with locks.
Very convenient.
The plastic housing the cheaper units have do not really protect the circuits very well.
My mud flap inner tube mod may look red-neck, yet it's very effective.
My 4ga alternator feed hits the buss, not the battery. (10ga is standard).
The 2 x 4ga battery jumper cable wires are crimped into a 2ga copper ferrule to the battery.
Found jumper cable wires in the trash, with broken terminal clamps.
600A is plenty to run a second battery/isolation, a second alternator, a welding machine, an on board compressor and a 12,000lb winch without a hiccup under multiple loads.
My PowerMaster alternator is 220A with adjustable charge voltage for lead acid, AGM or Lithium batteries.
Overkill is the minimum standard.
Normal standard is sub-standard.
You might consider:
Move the connections from the top of your battery for safety and ease of replacement.
All that weight on the positive terminal, from the Mouser Part you suggested, can break the battery lug or cause a short way too close to the caustic chemicals in the explosive black box. Way too much going on where you lean over the engine bay with a sweaty shirt in the hot weather.
It will work. Not the way I went about it. Gave it some thought though.
If you accidentally bump that thing with a c-wrench to ground, you'll know it.
Cover your terminals at the battery with as little terminal there as possible and move your junction to where it remains high and dry?
The Fastronix Mill Spec terminals:
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I'm not certain SkyCraft has any of the 600A bars left at $65.00. At that price they went very fast.
300A imported bars are double that price for inferior quality/poor hardware.
Not even sure they are solid copper.
*If YOU tap and machine some of these 4 lug solid copper buss bars, (on request), for a few of the 4wd members here you might make a few bucks to cover your expenses?
Find yourself a chunk of copper bar stock and tap/machine the buss bars?
I'll bet the rock crawler community would buy them too.
Mud flap to mud flap would work, instead of the plastic part the SkyJunk part had.
It has very little insulation properties, really.
Slab of G-10 insulator block would work excellent. $$
Much better than cheap plastic base.
If you want the exact dimensions of the copper bar, email me.
Good luck.
