Well now that you've all had your say, please allow me to throw in my 40 years (to the month) of dealing with this brand of kit, and many others like it .
First of all, is your engine internally in good condition ? If it's tired, or has "old stock valve springs", the turbo will just shorten it's miserable life .
Next, please show a photo of the "intake bypass" as I THINK you are referring to the little washers/start up bypass inside the carb base .
Please read off, or photo the "ID plate" on the turbo, so we can figure out what size and housings it has, and this will allow us to figure out how and when this this will make boost .
Also please carefully inspect the "exhaust housing", looking into the exhaust outlet . You are looking for a "drilled hole", anywhere in that area . This was often done instead of using a waste gate, to control max boost .
You can run a regular "big HEI", it will need weigh or spring changes, and an aftermarket adjustable vacuum advance will also help you dial in the spark timing .
I used a "650 spread bore Holley" on my 454 motor, and I don't think Holley makes a smaller one . Vacuum secondaries would be OK on a small block .
The primary power valve must be "indexed" to an outside vacuum hose, I'll show you how to do it, if you wish to proceed .
With a few "specs" about your engine, vehicle, gear ratios, turbo size, carb size, I can get you PDC (pretty damned close) to timing, and A/F ratios right here on this site .
You do not want to use a "square bore carb", nor a "metering rod carb", but only a spread bore Holley .
Water injection is your friend for towing with the turbo .
My deal (in the photo) ran 221,000 miles on the STOCK MOTOR, and then since the motor I built for it in 1990, the body and turbo have gone 497,000 miles .
I'm working on EFI and intercooler, with a turbo upgrade, when I have the time .
The "draw thru" systems do work, you just need to know how they work best on your motor .
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