Anyone know to install

[horchata81k10]

Got this electric fuel pump for my 350 sbc just no clue to install, i’ve blocked off and removed the mechanical fuel pump, i know the fuel lines from tank and carb connect, but i don’t know were to put it and how to connect the wires, i saw you don’t wanna put it right next to it because they don’t “push, they pull” links to videos or pictures of anyone who has this setup would be very appreciated, really the last thing i need so i can get back on the road and snow hopefully.

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[Chuckd84]

I ran a low pressure pump for about 5 years when i had a carb. I used an in line filter between the tank selector valve and the pump. I located the pump in the frame rail on the passenger side as close to the tank valve as possible. The closer to the tank and lower you can place the pump, the better. I then plumbed it to the factory supply line. I modified the factory line at the mechanical pump connection and ran a hose from the frame rail up to the carb. Im pretty sure i double flared the mechanical pump line and used that as a “hose barb”. I tapped into an accessory power point in the cab fuse box but ignition would also work fine with a fuse of course.

 

[sickchev]

Hey man, if your small block has a mechanical pump you don't need a electric one. The mechanical ones will last forever. Why did you block off and switch?

 

[horchata81k10]

i replaced my mechanical one and it went bad and just preference, and i just got a block off plate where the mechanical one would go

 

[sickchev]

While I would advocate for the mechanical like mentioned earlier. Here is the instruction guide for one of these style pumps if you are firm set on running one. This paper I assume would be in your packaging also.

 

[horchata81k10]

While I would advocate for the mechanical like mentioned earlier. Here is the instruction guide for one of these style pumps if you are firm set on running one. This paper I assume would be in your packaging also.

thanks man, came with the pump

 

[horchata81k10]

I ran a low pressure pump for about 5 years when i had a carb. I used an in line filter between the tank selector valve and the pump. I located the pump in the frame rail on the passenger side as close to the tank valve as possible. The closer to the tank and lower you can place the pump, the better. I then plumbed it to the factory supply line. I modified the factory line at the mechanical pump connection and ran a hose from the frame rail up to the carb. Im pretty sure i double flared the mechanical pump line and used that as a “hose barb”. I tapped into an accessory power point in the cab fuse box but ignition would also work fine with a fuse of course.

did you have dual tanks and could you switch them and it’d be fine?

 

[Chuckd84]

did you have dual tanks and could you switch them and it’d be fine?

Yes i had functional dual tanks from the factory. As long as you plumb in between the carb and selector valve, it will work just fine. Ive got efi now and still run the factory dual tanks and switch. You can see that on the youtube video i made last week.

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[Copymutt]

An advantage to an electric pump is you can recover the fuel that is no longer in the carb bowl due to evap or leak down. Very helpful in freezing weather when battery has limited cranks. Mount close to but below the tank outflow. I can even suggest one w/ a switch for this benefit in addition to your mechanical pump.

 

[RanchWelder]

Chuckd84,

The push lock fitting at your tank control module converting to PTFE -an6 should have a hose clamp.

The rubber fuel lines there should be Gates Barricade, rated to 300 PSI. Gates Hose has green writing on it and it is reinforced for TPI/TBI pressures.

You are pushing 42-65 psi with modern fuel injection. Use the correct hose, valves and clamps.
Stay away from push lock, especially without clamps.
Push lock is basically rated for 7 psi carburator use.
Anyone who chimes in and says push lock is rated for TPI is wrong.

Most of the older carburated small blocks with dual tanks have cross over plumbing and control valves rated for 7 psi fuel systems.
You should not mix and match old school fuel systems when upgrading to the FiTech system.

The Holley EFI TPI/TBI tank sending units with the -an fittings are expensive because they work safely.

Converting from push lock to high pressure -an hose is sketchy.
If that hose gets warm near the exhaust, that push lock will fall right off and cause a problem.

Are you positive that tank valve in your video is rated for TPI pressures?
What happens if you kick up a rock and that tank transfer valve breaks one of those plastic ports?
Fire is what happens.

My thought would be to build a manual valve out of aluminum manifold, for tank swapping.
Get the elctronics and that plastic valve assembly out of the system entirely.
You can thread for the -an fittings and avoid the rubber lines.
It only takes a minute to crawl under and turn a valve between tanks, if you need to.
The Earl's ball valves are $70 for a reason.

I use pex style stainless ring crimp clamps for fuel Gates Barricade TBI/TPI fuel lines, with a pex crimper. The stainless steel screw style fuel line clamps in your video work ok, so long as you keep up on them and do not allow them to rust out. My issue with the screw clamps you are using, is the quality has gone way down on them. The blue steel pot metal they are using is crap. I cannot find any made in the USA amymore, anywhere.

You would think such an important thing such as fuel line screw clamps would still be made in USA?

I'm not criticizing to be rude. Use the correct hose and design the system with safety in mind.

Click on my sig and research my posts for fuel line system threads.
Your frame is very clean. Nice rig!

Do not cut corners and accidentally burn it up.

 

[Chuckd84]

Chuckd84,

The push lock fitting at your tank control module converting to PTFE -an6 should have a hose clamp.

The rubber fuel lines there should be Gates Barricade, rated to 300 PSI. Gates Hose has green writing on it and it is reinforced for TPI/TBI pressures.

You are pushing 42-65 psi with modern fuel injection. Use the correct hose, valves and clamps.
Stay away from push lock, especially without clamps.
Push lock is basically rated for 7 psi carburator use.
Anyone who chimes in and says push lock is rated for TPI is wrong.

Most of the older carburated small blocks with dual tanks have cross over plumbing and control valves rated for 7 psi fuel systems.
You should not mix and match old school fuel systems when upgrading to the FiTech system.

The Holley EFI TPI/TBI tank sending units with the -an fittings are expensive because they work safely.

Converting from push lock to high pressure -an hose is sketchy.
If that hose gets warm near the exhaust, that push lock will fall right off and cause a problem.

Are you positive that tank valve in your video is rated for TPI pressures?
What happens if you kick up a rock and that tank transfer valve breaks one of those plastic ports?
Fire is what happens.

My thought would be to build a manual valve out of aluminum manifold, for tank swapping.
Get the elctronics and that plastic valve assembly out of the system entirely.
You can thread for the -an fittings and avoid the rubber lines.
It only takes a minute to crawl under and turn a valve between tanks, if you need to.
The Earl's ball valves are $70 for a reason.

I use pex style stainless ring crimp clamps for fuel Gates Barricade TBI/TPI fuel lines, with a pex crimper. The stainless steel screw style fuel line clamps in your video work ok, so long as you keep up on them and do not allow them to rust out. My issue with the screw clamps you are using, is the quality has gone way down on them. The blue steel pot metal they are using is crap. I cannot find any made in the USA amymore, anywhere.

You would think such an important thing such as fuel line screw clamps would still be made in USA?

I'm not criticizing to be rude. Use the correct hose and design the system with safety in mind.

Click on my sig and research my posts for fuel line system threads.
Your frame is very clean. Nice rig!

Do not cut corners and accidentally burn it up.

Those sending units are rated for efi and came from an 87 as well as the selector valve. (Also rated for efi by pollack). The clamps im using are stainless and that is gates barricade efi and e85 rated hose. The selector valve is covered by the factory shield and i fabricated one for the hoses on the driver side. Im not sure how this isnt correct or safe.

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[RanchWelder]

Great work!

My concern was push lock under pressure.
Your pictures explain a lot.
The heat shield is good.

If I'm wrong about push locks being used for pressure them I'm wrong.
I would not use them over 7psi.

 

[Chuckd84]

Parker hose designed them for high pressure with no clamps from my understanding. Used them alot in my line of work over the years. Ive never known there to be pex style clamps to be obtained. Ive only seen them on oem assembled components. I found them and the AN fitting fuel sender/pump hanger on Quantum Fuel Systems. Parts are on the way. Thanks for the info!

 

[sodell33]

Got this electric fuel pump for my 350 sbc just no clue to install, i’ve blocked off and removed the mechanical fuel pump, i know the fuel lines from tank and carb connect, but i don’t know were to put it and how to connect the wires, i saw you don’t wanna put it right next to it because they don’t “push, they pull” links to videos or pictures of anyone who has this setup would be very appreciated, really the last thing i need so i can get back on the road and snow hopefully.

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Be sure to use a regulator and a safety switch. I use an Aeromotive 13301 regulator and a Revolution safety. Both are a must if you don't want a fire.

Fuel Pump Safety Switch

Shuts off the fuel pump if the engine stalls. Primes the pump at startup.

www.revolutionelectronics.com

 

[DoubleDingo]

An advantage to an electric pump is you can recover the fuel that is no longer in the carb bowl due to evap or leak down. Very helpful in freezing weather when battery has limited cranks. Mount close to but below the tank outflow. I can even suggest one w/ a switch for this benefit in addition to your mechanical pump.

I've shared this story before, but will again. Pop has a '69 F250, a nice truck. Back in his younger years he did a lot of driving on back roads and didn't want to be left stranded because of a faulty mechanical fuel pump. So, he install an auxiliary electric pump near the valve and wired it to a switch. In the time he's had it installed, he personally hasn't had to use the auxiliary pump. However, he had loaned his truck to some friends because they were going up to their family property in the mountains and needed 4x4. On the way down the mechanical pump did fail, so they hoofed it 25 miles to a pay phone and called Pop to come get them and to bring a fuel pump. He said, "Why did you walk?" The answer, "The fuel pump went bad, we told you that." He said, "Why didn't you use the electric pump to get you back home?" At that point his friend that helped install the auxiliary pump remembered that fact, and felt like a dumba$$.

Moral of the story @horchata81k10, keep the mechanical, plumb in an auxiliary electric pump, wire it to a switch like @Copymutt mentioned, and you'll be golden.