Anyone ever make/crimp their own high pressure hoses?

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Doppleganger

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Looking to make a 3/4NPT and 3/8NPT high pressure (flex) lines. Local place wants stupid $$ to do it (and I already have the Parker industrial hose) - figured I'd rather put the $ towards the tooling and do it myself forever. Parker has a new style "barb" that from what I hear is pretty permanent and good to 350psi.

Just wondered what tools/fittings you got and where? Not something I want to do with china-freight stuff.

THX
 

Bextreme04

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Looking to make a 3/4NPT and 3/8NPT high pressure (flex) lines. Local place wants stupid $$ to do it (and I already have the Parker industrial hose) - figured I'd rather put the $ towards the tooling and do it myself forever. Parker has a new style "barb" that from what I hear is pretty permanent and good to 350psi.

Just wondered what tools/fittings you got and where? Not something I want to do with china-freight stuff.

THX
I was just going to order a kit like this.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...onB7OyEAxWnAzQIHeYUB78Q9aACKAB6BAgEEFQ&adurl=

I need to do a few hoses on my K25 when I do the engine swap and it changes from the A6 compressor to the modern Sanden compressor. I Also am missing a bunch of hoses for my 67 Buick Riviera and will probably need to make them since no one seems to make them anymore.
 

Hunter79764

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Just make absolutely sure that the hose you have is rated to be used with the connections you buy. There's a ton of options that don't always seem very different, but can be incompatible with each other.
 

PrairieDrifter

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My local napa does it pretty cheap? They would probably crimp em for free for a couple of hoses i already had the parts for. I haven't seen much for budget hydraulic crimpers lll
 

75gmck25

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Another thing to watch out for is that many of these hoses only work well if the fitting orientation is correct.

For example, if a shop crimps a 90 degree fitting on and it’s pointing in the wrong direction/orientation it cannot be corrected later because you can’t rotate the fitting once it’s crimped on.
 
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Doppleganger

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I need (4) 3/4NPT and (2) 3/8NPT fittings crimped on my own hose and they want $140 to do it. For that kind of coin, I could buy a nice kit and do it myself from here on out. Going to need to make custom AC lines for the square anyways.

Sounds like something Eastwood would peddle.
 

justhorns

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I install Vintage air systems, and have crimped on the ends with a very fancy crimper that I rent from them. They are available for rental elsewhere. Its easy to do.
 

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CalSgt

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We have one almost same as @justhorns, I’m not sure if it works on hydraulic lines or not. I’ve only ever used it for the AC lines in my square.

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RanchWelder

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Here we go...
Just make absolutely sure that the hose you have is rated to be used with the connections you buy. There's a ton of options that don't always seem very different, but can be incompatible with each other.
What he said ^^^?
By the way, "absolutely sure" is nearly TOP SECRET INFORMATION. Fittings and hose is proprietary information.

The rubber hose industry "hoses" everyone. It's a racket. MIC crap.
Every crimp they sell lowers the cost of US Military parts and guess whom gets to pay the high cost of low living?
You.

Nothing is interchangeable, by design.

You're not telling us what they are for?
Everything matters, all the time, when it comes to HIGH PRESSURE anything.

I'll write it in this post before the rest of the usual suspects chime in:
"Vice grips and a hammer has worked repairing rotten cracked brake lines, since I was 15 years old... "

There's always one guy who leaves his lawn mower out all winter long, pulls the cord once, and it starts every spring.

Stubborn is not just dumb sometimes, it can be extremely expensive.
3/4" HP lines are getting into 2300lbs/in territory under surge.
The 4L80E casting cracks at 800 psi.

"Here at Boeing, we don't pay Parker Hanofin to crush our hydraulics lines, we use whatever we want and crush it ourselves!"
What could go wrong with that mentality?

Just make certain to not use Dawn Soap when you slide the hose onto the fittings, OK?:

Link: Dawn Soap used on aircraft door installs:
https://www.zerohedge.com/markets/faa-audit-finds-dozens-boeing-737-max-production-issues-nyt

You must be registered for see images attach
 
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Doppleganger

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I have a 5hp 80 gal compressor. I am in process of mounting an aftercooler on it - drastically reduces the air temp and moisture by about 90-95%. Line leaves the tank and goes to a manifold that exits one end for air tool use (95% dry) and exits the other to another cooler rack and then on to a desiccate/filter that makes it 100% dry - for paint.

The 3/4 hose goes from the tank to the manifold, and then from the manifold to the rack. The 3/8" hose goes from the rack to a copper line for the filters and then from a copper line to a reel (for painting).

There is a place downtown here that makes industrial lines of all shapes and ratings. I took the Parker hose I had bought and cut to length down to them yesterday morning and had them do it - $71 out the door. I may still get a crimper for AC lines but time is of the essence now. Wife and I agree if the truck is not well underway in the re-assembly phase this year, its being parted out. We want to move and cannot with it in the way.
 

justhorns

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Here we go...

What he said ^^^?
By the way, "absolutely sure" is nearly TOP SECRET INFORMATION. Fittings and hose is proprietary information.

The rubber hose industry "hoses" everyone. It's a racket. MIC crap.
Every crimp they sell lowers the cost of US Military parts and guess whom gets to pay the high cost of low living?
You.

Nothing is interchangeable, by design.

You're not telling us what they are for?
Everything matters, all the time, when it comes to HIGH PRESSURE anything.

I'll write it in this post before the rest of the usual suspects chime in:
"Vice grips and a hammer has worked repairing rotten cracked brake lines, since I was 15 years old... "

There's always one guy who leaves his lawn mower out all winter long, pulls the cord once, and it starts every spring.

Stubborn is not just dumb sometimes, it can be extremely expensive.
3/4" HP lines are getting into 2300lbs/in territory under surge.
The 4L80E casting cracks at 800 psi.

"Here at Boeing, we don't pay Parker Hanofin to crush our hydraulics lines, we use whatever we want and crush it ourselves!"
What could go wrong with that mentality?

Just make certain to not use Dawn Soap when you slide the hose onto the fittings, OK?:

Link: Dawn Soap used on aircraft door installs:
https://www.zerohedge.com/markets/faa-audit-finds-dozens-boeing-737-max-production-issues-nyt

You must be registered for see images attach
yup, my lawn mower was a honda. Now its lectric
 

RanchWelder

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Money is so tight everywhere Doppleganger.
Can you think of a way to mod a pair of hard lines or using the old fittings with slight flares to hold the ring crimps from sliding off?
For your aplication, your max pressure is only 150 (+- 40% burst over pressure = 210 psi?)
That's not high pressure.

You can slightly flare the aluminum or copper tubing, either sticking out of the fittings using the old connectors, or by cutting off the factory hydraulic crimp ferrule. In fact, you might be able to source some ruined lines for the connectors you need to save even more money, rather than buy them new. Your hose guy will have damaged lines you can salvage? Let him know it's for a spay gun compressor, not a hydraulic line.

The ferule is the portion that crimps to the hose over the fitting tube, as in my picture above.
The ferule is not connected, usually, but somethimes they are machined from billet.
With a rotory tool or a pair of side cutters you can mangle or disect the ferule from the fitting.
Then use something to very mildly stretch the tubing end of the fitting or copper pipe, force it on, the ring clamps should not slip off under low pressure.

Just stretch the tubing a few millimeters as a snag for the rings to resist the slipage.

Use 2-3 ring crimps over the hose connections, with a slight flare to rubber hose.
Check out this thread where I mention some ring crimps and the tools to make quality low pressure crimps:
https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/fuel-hose-ok.42261/page-3#post-895543


Without pictures of the manifold, cooling rack and the fittings you are trying to use, it makes it tough to imagine.
I'm glad it's not high pressure use, because now you can make it work a lot cheaper.

Air compressor is a lot less potiential for getting hurt than 1500-2300 psi hydraulics unit lines.
 
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Doppleganger

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Money is so tight everywhere Doppleganger.
Can you think of a way to mod a pair of hard lines or using the old fittings with slight flares to hold the ring crimps from sliding off?
For your aplication, your max pressure is only 150 (+- 40% burst over pressure = 210 psi?)
That's not high pressure.

You can slightly flare the aluminum or copper tubing, either sticking out of the fittings using the old connectors, or by cutting off the factory hydraulic crimp ferrule. In fact, you might be able to source some ruined lines for the connectors you need to save even more money, rather than buy them new. Your hose guy will have damaged lines you can salvage? Let him know it's for a spay gun compressor, not a hydraulic line.

The ferule is the portion that crimps to the hose over the fitting tube, as in my picture above.
The ferule is not connected, usually, but somethimes they are machined from billet.
With a rotory tool or a pair of side cutters you can mangle or disect the ferule from the fitting.
Then use something to very mildly stretch the tubing end of the fitting or copper pipe, force it on, the ring clamps should not slip off under low pressure.

Just stretch the tubing a few millimeters as a snag for the rings to resist the slipage.

Use 2-3 ring crimps over the hose connections, with a slight flare to rubber hose.
Check out this thread where I mention some ring crimps and the tools to make quality low pressure crimps:
https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/fuel-hose-ok.42261/page-3#post-895543


Without pictures of the manifold, cooling rack and the fittings you are trying to use, it makes it tough to imagine.
I'm glad it's not high pressure use, because now you can make it work a lot cheaper.

Air compressor is a lot less potiential for getting hurt than 1500-2300 psi hydraulics unit lines.
The compressor is a 175psi setup and my hoses are rated at 350psi (Parker Industrial - normally they're around 250 max). I was about 50ft away from a 1000 gal tank that blew once at a shop - buckled the steel man door it was near like a pop can.....like saw blades, I respect them to a fault.

This place downtown isn't great but not bad (price wise) and usually has every fitting known to man. I have had AC lines made there before. A couple times they cut the pipe off the clamp and brazed/welded it to a new sleeve - clamp to make a new hose.

I'll post a pic when the whole setup is done - only thing left is to mount the aftercooler. Making an easy to service mount out of aluminum channel which I managed to get cut to size yesterday - weather went back to crap today like usual, but next decent day, going to finish it up and get pics. I sweat alot of copper so just hoping for no leaks.
 

RanchWelder

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Agreed. 350 is your surge max.
Air is different than fluids and the burst increases on a slide.
Usually hard lines for your application have fins on them to radiate the heat.
Crushing air gets hot, so it's the heat as well as the pressure.

Wish I had a crimper for you to borrow.
 

andybflo

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I was just going to order a kit like this.

I need to do a few hoses on my K25 when I do the engine swap and it changes from the A6 compressor to the modern Sanden compressor. I Also am missing a bunch of hoses for my 67 Buick Riviera and will probably need to make them since no one seems to make them anymore.

As a heads up, I own that exact crimper. It will hold A/C pressure, I use it frequently to make custom hoses and ends for restomod cars that I build all the time.

It WILL NOT hold hydraulic pressure. I loaned it to a friend who tried to make power steering hoses. I warned him after he did it. They worked for a bit, and while turning wheels at a stop, in a parking lot, a fitting popped and caused a small, extinguishable, fire underhood when the PS fluid hit the hot exhaust.

I know you spoke of AC hoses, it'll work great for that (Speedway sells a generic fitting kit, and hoses at good prices, too.)

But, for anything hydraulic, your mileage may vary, but I wouldn't go cheap on transporting flammable oil around a hot engine bay. Pay the nice people at Parker and sleep well.
 

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