Any headers that fit perfectly on 84 K10?

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HotRodPC

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When I was looking, I have wrote down here SUM G9006 from Summit. Read the Reviews and everyone said perfect fit. They are just paint headers so you might want to wrap or repaint with your own high heat paint. Or the Ceramic Coated same headers are SUM G9006-9. But you buy them twice for the ceramic coating.
 

Ewhitaker0020

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When I was looking, I have wrote down here SUM G9006 from Summit. Read the Reviews and everyone said perfect fit. They are just paint headers so you might want to wrap or repaint with your own high heat paint. Or the Ceramic Coated same headers are SUM G9006-9. But you buy them twice for the ceramic coating.

According to the reviews these sound like they'll work perfectly!! Thanks so much for the part number. I'm going to dig a little deeper but it sounds like we have a winner!!
 

HotRodPC

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According to the reviews these sound like they'll work perfectly!! Thanks so much for the part number. I'm going to dig a little deeper but it sounds like we have a winner!!
Yep, I read the reviews, and not 1 person said they didn't fit or had to make mods to get them to work. The only complaints seemed to be the paint burned off quick. Well Duh, they say painted headers and the paint is just to keep them from rusting before installation. I don't mind headers without paint. Do exhaust manifolds stay painted? NOPE
 

SquareRoot

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I'm wondering if anybody can help me pick out some headers that will be an exact fit for my 84 K10 with the 305.

I've already upgraded my intake and carb to an Edelbrock combo and it seems like headers are the next easiest bolt on step.

I've heard picking headers for a 4wd can be finicky. I would like to get something cheapish but will bolt right on with little to no modifications. I have AC if that matters.

I'm including a picture of my engine bay, if that helps and a picture of some shorty headers that I bought super cheap at a yard sale.

Do you think this type of header will work? I heard somewhere that headers for a 4wd truck will have one side that's made different to accommodate something or another. Both of the headers I have look exactly the same

Cheap, easy, reliable. You may choose two.


With that said, my Hedmans fit great, except the d/s flange dumped right into the factory auto trans linkage. Easy fix, shitcan the factory linkage and install Lokar floor shifter.
 

bucket

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I think I've run most of the commonly available headers for a small block. For the average engine, Flowtech is the simple answer. They just plain fit.

Hooker headers fit well too, but plug wire routing can be a pain on the driver side.

Hedman has a couple different designs and you can get each in several different finishes. One design fits well and is a breeze to install, but they tend to rub the spring shackles. The other design tucks up in nicely, but is harder to install and may interfere with auto trans linkage. Hedman's also use a ball flange style collector (3" too) and is VERY handy at times.
 

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Or the lokar column shift rod/armature. Works well for me.
 

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I bought these off ebay because the bends looked the closest to the ones i was replacing They say they're for corvettes, but the reviews had a bunch of guys saying they were too long for the vettes, stuck out the bottom. Fit my 79 k20 with a 350. Fit with a th400 and with an sm465 and linkage. I did have to “clearance” some spots and open up the mounting holes in the flange. Have your hammer and pipe ready for dimpling, and drill/dremel/grinder ready to “massage” the flange.

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So from now on we're buying corvette headers...? **** me..
 

semperfiguy98

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FWIW, I got a set of Flowtech longtubes on my 86 K20 with 350, th400, NP208. I had to modify the AC bracket. The instructions explain how to do that. I also had to switch to a short oil filter. The driver side header was hitting my filter. With the short oil filter I have 3/4 inch clearance between the header and the filter. On the passenger side, the reducer flange is VERY close to the front driveshaft. I did have to move my starter wires a bit, and I plan to put a heat shield between the starter and exhaust tubes.
 

bucket

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The AC bracket modification needs done, no matter what brand of headers get installed.

*edit*
When it's a small block and has the R4 compressor and v-belts.
 

Battlac40

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I have a set of the Edelbrock 50 state-shorty kits for the 305/350. Came ceramic coated with a Y pipe, etc. I sold the "kit" part to a guy with a square van. I do have the small starter-stock. No clearance issues. Had to buy the right flanges to link up to the duel-exhaust P.O. had installed. There is some weird emissions pipes-just capped them. Headers work well and sound/perform amazing. If I could do it over I would add locking header bolts. I have to tighten the arp hex bolts every oil-change.
 

malibuman402

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patriot mid length headers are the ticket. your exhaust can be tucked even with the frame rails. just my thoughts.
 

Ewhitaker0020

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When I was looking, I have wrote down here SUM G9006 from Summit. Read the Reviews and everyone said perfect fit. They are just paint headers so you might want to wrap or repaint with your own high heat paint. Or the Ceramic Coated same headers are SUM G9006-9. But you buy them twice for the ceramic coating.


I found a guy near me selling a pair that look exactly like the ones you linked for $50. Score.

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FireTruck1984

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Hooker Competition fit great, this is an ‘84 K10
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