Any headers that fit perfectly on 84 K10?

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shiftpro

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FWIW, I got a set of Flowtech longtubes on my 86 K20 with 350, th400, NP208. I had to modify the AC bracket. The instructions explain how to do that. I also had to switch to a short oil filter. The driver side header was hitting my filter. With the short oil filter I have 3/4 inch clearance between the header and the filter. On the passenger side, the reducer flange is VERY close to the front driveshaft. I did have to move my starter wires a bit, and I plan to put a heat shield between the starter and exhaust tubes.

I have hammer clearanced both BB and SM headers around the starter. It certainly didn't touch, but I figure another 1/4 of air will never hurt. I also am known for wrapping the side of the starter (nearest to the headers) with cheap but effective heat reflect tape. It's a woven tape with metallic reflective surface. This material can be sourced through dirt bike parts... and I'm sure other places but that's where I got it. I used to put a few layers on the bottom inside rad tank. On the shifter side. It actually helped and so I have confidence it keeps even a Chev starter a little less scalding.

If you have oxy/acet torches handy, don't be afraid to use some heat on those tubes you want to adjust. You can do it cold but...
 

shiftpro

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Hooker Competition fit great, this is an ‘84 K10
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Is that your engine..!?
I see some dirt haha.... oh wait never mind, it's on my computer screen.
 

SquareRoot

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Hooker Competition fit great, this is an ‘84 K10
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Hey Firetruck , I got question for you. That upper radiator hose, what the application for? I converted my 85 to serpentine and have not been able to find a hose that fits as well as what you've got. Please tell me.

And those headers! They look like perfection! They look like they come straight out from the ports quite a ways and gives you much more clearance for the plug boots. How does cylinder # 6 fit, that's usually the worst one. I'd trade my Hedman for those in a minute, even at $600.
 

FireTruck1984

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Hey Firetruck , I got question for you. That upper radiator hose, what the application for? I converted my 85 to serpentine and have not been able to find a hose that fits as well as what you've got. Please tell me.

And those headers! They look like perfection! They look like they come straight out from the ports quite a ways and gives you much more clearance for the plug boots. How does cylinder # 6 fit, that's usually the worst one. I'd trade my Hedman for those in a minute, even at $600.
The radiator hose is specific to a Chevrolet Performance Crate Engine with the air conditioning compressor on the right, I believe mine came from Summit? Your application may be different depending on your components and thermostat neck position..? Someone else may know more about a stock SBC.
And yes, plenty of clearance with the Hooker Competition headers, no issues with number 6 cylinder.
 

Mofarmer

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Hooker Competition fit great, this is an ‘84 K10
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FireTruck has your truck been lowered any? Do you think the headers you used would hang to low under a truck that has been lowered a couple of inches? Is that a GM performance crate engine you have, if so do you remember which one it is? I'm thinking of going that route on an engine replacement.
 

FireTruck1984

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FireTruck has your truck been lowered any? Do you think the headers you used would hang to low under a truck that has been lowered a couple of inches? Is that a GM performance crate engine you have, if so do you remember which one it is? I'm thinking of going that route on an engine replacement.
No not lowered. it's a K15 4x4 stock ride height. GM performance ZZ4 350 crate engine 355 HP. These headers should work for your application. Be sure to get the spec for a 2WD C10, mine were specifically for 4WD
 

Mofarmer

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Thanks FireTruck thats probably the headers I'll go with. GM doesn't offer the zz4 anymore but have several other options.
 

FireTruck1984

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Thanks FireTruck thats probably the headers I'll go with. GM doesn't offer the zz4 anymore but have several other options.
The GM performance sb 350 HO turnkey crate engine is a good one
 

hirschdalechevy

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Thanks FireTruck thats probably the headers I'll go with. GM doesn't offer the zz4 anymore but have several other options.


I just put the gm sp350/357 in my k5, still tuning on it but it has a little cam sound to it and pulls pretty dam hard. Not a race engine but does well for a daily driver and has enough pull to get with it.

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hirschdalechevy

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Also for the o.p. I have the hedman elite headers on that k5 and they fit perfect with no mods, but I do run the shorty plugs.

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Mofarmer

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I just put the gm sp350/357 in my k5, still tuning on it but it has a little cam sound to it and pulls pretty dam hard. Not a race engine but does well for a daily driver and has enough pull to get with it.

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Rich, I have been thinking pretty seriously about this exact engine. I like the roller cam shaft vs. the flat tappet. Did you swap the holley carb that comes with it?
 

hirschdalechevy

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Yes, for one I am not a fan of 670cfm holley avenger style carbs and they have center hung floats which are not good for off road. The carb. you see is a quick fuel 600cfm off road carb. , side hung floats with the vent tubes connected and sring loaded needle and seats, single feed. This quick fuel carb. is no longer made. Also the 670 that comes with the sp350 is really just hype , its the same base plate as a 600cfm, so its really a 600cfm, I even checked the bores in the main body and they are the same as my other 600cfm carbs as well so the 670cfm rating is b.s.

Some more food for thought, if you get a sp350 dont listen to the instructions that came with the engine for timing and carb spacers and such, (give the engine what it wants).

I have been messing with tuning for a while trying different things , for most power and fuel economy. Tuning can be tricky with a 108 lsa cam for idle and such, (overlap), so you have to play with timing and carb. settings. At high elevation, (where I am at) the sp350 likes a ton of initial timing with the cam it has, (108lsa) and a fast curve, ( all in at 2,800 rpm) with a 34 total.

I just put a 1 inch open carb spacer on it to try with the same carb. and it made the idle better and it pulls harder through the whole curve with a tick better peak rpm as well. I also have a afr meter so I am tuning off of that.

I also swapped on a 650 double pumper (that I had laying around)on it just two days ago and it pulls harder even more now through the entire curve, so thats telling me more carb.

So now I converted my 650 double pumper to side hung, single feed bowls for off road and have been tuning on it, ( its a brawler carb.)

All I am saying is its a pretty good engine and it has a little cam sound at idle if you are into that but it can be tricky to tune. I would not follow the gm settings they are far to conservative. If I was at a lower elevation and dropping the sp350 in a 2 wheel drive truck I would go for a 750cfm carb. myself with an open carb. spacer.

Also you can tune a holley double pumper for good fuel economy if you can stay out of the secondary's. At slow driving and cruising they are the same as a vacuum secondary carb. and then when you nail it , its on like donkey kong.
 

Mofarmer

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I just put the gm sp350/357 in my k5, still tuning on it but it has a little cam sound to it and pulls pretty dam hard. Not a race engine but does well for a daily driver and has enough pull to get with it.

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Rich are you using a mechanical fuel pump or electric with this engine? Where did you get the bracket for your throttle and kick down cable, also i really like your plug wire holders! Im sure this is the engine im going with in my c10. As for the tuning your way over my head, I know the timing adj. and the basic carburetor adjustments.
 

hirschdalechevy

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I am using a stock fuel pump with a pressure regulator and a howards cams billet fuel pump push rod, (# 94475). The brackets and wire holder's all all from summit racing. I don't have a kick down cable because I have a turbo 400 transmission.

As far as tuning this engine like a lot of initial timing, (because of the cam) , but I am at high elevation, (5,500 feet) so that all depends on where you are at and your transmission, gear's, tire size etc.... When you kick the initial timing up you need to watch the total because you raise that to and vortec head only likes 32 to 34 total advance.

If you do get this engine with a distributor and intake and carb you will need to play with them to get your tune right. I however would not go by gm's instructions that come with the engine, (they are way to conservative for tuning).

If you go with a long block engine you could just do whatever you want for an intake, carb., dist. etc......
 

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FireTruck has your truck been lowered any? Do you think the headers you used would hang to low under a truck that has been lowered a couple of inches? Is that a GM performance crate engine you have, if so do you remember which one it is? I'm thinking of going that route on an engine replacement.

Thanks FireTruck thats probably the headers I'll go with. GM doesn't offer the zz4 anymore but have several other options.

@Mofarmer if you have a 2wd truck and you are going to lower it.
Look into Chevelle headers.
They tuck up higher and do not hang low past the bottom of the chassis rail.
The headers made specifically for trucks seem to hang lower.

We just put a free set on our big block and they fit relatively well, even near our stock Z-bar linkage for the SM465.
At that point we broke out the torch and ball peen for some reforming work.
Just to have some extra clearance at that point.
Now we know they fit and what to buy when we want a new shiny ceramic coated set.

Since @Maxwellvis put them on last week, he drives the truck like a race car.
He loves the sound it makes now.
We can hear him coming from a couple blocks away.

Big block is moving more air and has appreciated the ability to breathe...

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