Any explicit help on removing AC components and keeping heat?

[projo198]

I've been trying to get a solid answer online and have had no luck.

My '78 K10 came to me with the outer heater box completely tore off. The only thing still there was the blower motor and housing.

I want to run heat only, no interest in restoring the AC (if it ever existed). The controls in the cab do show AC selections so I am guessing at one time it had it.

I have seen aftermarket "AC delete" boxes which appear to just connect the blower motor with the large square door in the firewall. I am in the process of fabbing my own to save money.

Is this job literally that simple? Does it require any modifications inside the cab?

Pic of my firewall. Any help/advice would be appreciated!

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[Matt69olds]

That’s all that’s needed.

Technically, the air comes from the cowl area, goes down to the blower motor, the motor forces air thru the rectangular box, and then the various doors direct air thru the heater core, and to the various vents/outlets.

You will still need the vacuum line and vacuum storage ball to be able to control the function. Keep the heater control valve in the heater hose, whenever the temp is selected to full cold the water flow the heater core is blocked. Might keep things a little cooler in the cab.

 

[projo198]

That’s all that’s needed.

Technically, the air comes from the cowl area, goes down to the blower motor, the motor forces air thru the rectangular box, and then the various doors direct air thru the heater core, and to the various vents/outlets.

You will still need the vacuum line and vacuum storage ball to be able to control the function. Keep the heater control valve in the heater hose, whenever the temp is selected to full cold the water flow the heater core is blocked. Might keep things a little cooler in the cab.

Thanks much for the info!

 

[Rustisbest]

You'll need a spot for the blower motor resistor too unless you just wire it on/off. Everything else can remain as is as already stated

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[projo198]

Well guys after debating cost and work involved I just ordered an under the dash auxiliary heater. Getting the right parts, even salvage, would have cost more.

 

[Ricko1966]

Well guys after debating cost and work involved I just ordered an under the dash auxiliary heater. Getting the right parts, even salvage, would have cost more.

Pic and info on this underdash heater. Fwiw if your heater core is there,and your just trying to get some heat,don't care what things look like you can put a bilge blower under hood probably 10 bucks on amazon, wire it to run when the engines running or on a toggle,the under hood duct work would be simple with pcv and flex duct . Or just use @bucket leaf blower

 

[projo198]

Pic and info on this underdash heater. Fwiw if your heater core is there,and your just trying to get some heat,don't care what things look like you can put a bilge blower under hood probably 10 bucks on amazon, wire it to run when the engines running or on a toggle,the under hood duct work would be simple with pcv and flex duct . Or just use @bucket leaf blower

I ordered it on Amazon, but on a whim today I went to a junkyard and found a donor truck with EVERYTHING I need.... It was almost intact and wasn't even listed on their inventory, guessing that's why it is relatively untouched.

 

[racprops]

Hello, as you live in a area of COLD and show, are you aware of how the A/C is turned on when using the heat?? How it removes water from the air before heating it and how this can make your defogger work so much better than pure wet heat that can fog you windshield. This was/is a big improvement over the old cars with no such help.

I remember my 56 Studebaker would fog the hell out of my windshield when I turned on the defogger, it was worst than with out. I see how much better new cars, trucks and SUVs defog.

Just a FYI.

Rich