already want a bigger cam

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1low4x4

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E]ngine:

350 4 bolt main
flat top pistons
vortec heads
z28 valve springs good to .050" lift
q jet worked over
long tube headers

First I put the stock cam in it. Then I put this cam in,

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Then the one I have now, which the engine makes good power, it is fairly fast for a lifted truck but i want more power, like, i want excess power that I can use to burn em down if I want.Problem is, I dont want to render my truck useless at low Rpms.
 

1low4x4

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he cam I have now since the ******* sight eont let me post it in the right spot in the original post
 

1low4x4

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The second cam was a increase in power over that ****** k1102.

Basically what do i need to do. Add duration or add lift. And id rather stay away from a stall right now tho im not totally against it. Thanks for any suggestions
 

firebane

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Problem is your looking at cams that don't make any power till 1200rpm. On a big heavy truck you want that deep down low.

For example my 12-300-4 cam starts at 600rpm and tops out around 4500rpm. I don't need high rpms as its a truck not a race car so I want power LOW LOW LOW so I can get moving.
 

1low4x4

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Problem is your looking at cams that don't make any power till 1200rpm. On a big heavy truck you want that deep down low.

For example my 12-300-4 cam starts at 600rpm and tops out around 4500rpm. I don't need high rpms as its a truck not a race car so I want power LOW LOW LOW so I can get moving.

Thanks. I was never taught much on cam selection.
 

firebane

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Thanks. I was never taught much on cam selection.

I'm not a expert on cams by any means but there is a lot a vehicle than just the cam. Things like gearing, your timing, intake manifold, headers etc can all play a massive role in how a truck will move.
 

1low4x4

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I'm not a expert on cams by any means but there is a lot a vehicle than just the cam. Things like gearing, your timing, intake manifold, headers etc can all play a massive role in how a truck will move.

Yes....i know that. Im happy with it now I just think I can do better. My intake and headers and gears are where they need to be. Other than a set of aluminum heads I think a better cam would work. i think ill call comp. They recommrnded the current cam.
 

Joe383

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I would step up about 10* on duration on the cam. A 214*/224* cam will work just fine. I am swapping my vortec motor in my 3/4 ton 4X4 I just built that has 214/224 @0.050 and it has great low RPM torque. I was running it in my 86 Camaro with a stock stall and could bark the tires with light blips of the throttle. Like Firebane said don't forget the other parts too. If your running an automatic your cam selection is limited to your stall speed. 214/224 is as large as I would go with a stock stall. I am running the EPS intake on my set up with a 670 street avenger carb and love the combination. Don't forget to tune the carb also. Your fuel mixture could be a little off and there could still be power in the set up you have. I have an AEM AFR wide band gage on my motor and would recommend it for helping with tuning. Take the reading with a grain of salt though. Use it to ball park lean and rich and then fine tune by road testing. My current set up has 35s, 4.10 gears and a MS465 transmission. I will be swapping over to 33s with a more flexible suspension, 4.56 gears and a NV4500. Will lower my cruse RPM 500 RPM at 70 and add a lot of acceleration to the truck. Good gears and the proper transmission can make or break a set up. If your running an automatic tuning it will make the truck a little more fun to drive. Don't go balls out on a street/strip shift kit or any thing but get a shift kit. Install the towing or stage 1 part of the kit and making sure the truck shifts at the correct RPM. What size tires and gears are you running? And what transmission do your have?
 

1low4x4

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my tires are 33s, my gears are 373 Eaton LSD, my transmission is a 700r4, I have the shifting adjusted to what I feel is right for it, and the timing as well. Thanks for the cam help man
 

Joe383

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Going to be a few more months tell it is in my truck but this motor will be towing a camper and a boat and will do it just fine. A 33 with 3.73 and a 700 is a good set up. I would beef up the transmission though if your going to rod on this thing at all. I would not do a full rebuild but upping line pressure and doing larger servo's will help it live longer. These transmissions do not have enough line pressure to hold up to too much of a beating. The 700R4 in my Camaro at about 5K would slip under a full throttle pull. I think this was due to a week pump slide spring. A good shift kit will correct this and help keep your clutches alive.
 

1low4x4

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That cam sounds nice. What's the lift? That's a custom grind cam?
 

350runner

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Yea that cam does sound good.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

rich weyand

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Problem is your looking at cams that don't make any power till 1200rpm. On a big heavy truck you want that deep down low.

For example my 12-300-4 cam starts at 600rpm and tops out around 4500rpm. I don't need high rpms as its a truck not a race car so I want power LOW LOW LOW so I can get moving.

I just ran those two cams on camquest with the 350 parameters. I'm not sure you'll notice much difference between the 12-206-2 and the 12-300-4. A little more torque in the very bottom, but maybe not enough to notice.
 

1low4x4

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Thanks for all the input...the truck really does well, im not sure why the engine is so much more powerful jn this truck (k10 short) vs in my long bed c20, cam is only difference. I figured they'd be about thw same weight, one being half ton 4x4 and the other 3/4 ton 2wd. By I have no idea. In the c 20 it wouldnt Break the tires loose at all. And was not a bullet by any means. Now, in the k10, I can do a massive burn out and the truck pulls strong thru the gears. Its really nice I just want a little more with maybe a little more cam sound but without sacrificing power for noise
 

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