Air Conditioning Delete

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Powerhouse Ranch

3G Connoisseur
Joined
Jan 6, 2021
Posts
1,465
Reaction score
2,629
Location
PA
First Name
Luke
Truck Year
1980 & 1988
Truck Model
C25 & V15
Engine Size
454 & 350

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,263
Reaction score
2,206
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
Just my two cents - with all the other things I need to fix on my truck I would never go through the trouble of doing a complete A/C delete.

When I got my truck it was missing the compressor, brackets and a couple hoses, and I just left it that way for about about a year. It ran fine and the heater worked fine.

There is really no need to try to remove the A/C evaporator housing unless you need that engine compartment space for something. Just plug up the lines coming out of the evaporator and call it a day. Then strip out the compressor, A/C hoses and the condenser. -- A/C deleted!!

Bruce
 

Powerhouse Ranch

3G Connoisseur
Joined
Jan 6, 2021
Posts
1,465
Reaction score
2,629
Location
PA
First Name
Luke
Truck Year
1980 & 1988
Truck Model
C25 & V15
Engine Size
454 & 350
Just my two cents - with all the other things I need to fix on my truck I would never go through the trouble of doing a complete A/C delete.

When I got my truck it was missing the compressor, brackets and a couple hoses, and I just left it that way for about about a year. It ran fine and the heater worked fine.

There is really no need to try to remove the A/C evaporator housing unless you need that engine compartment space for something. Just plug up the lines coming out of the evaporator and call it a day. Then strip out the compressor, A/C hoses and the condenser. -- A/C deleted!!

Bruce
yeah i planned on keeping it light but effective. yet clean looking at the same time
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,853
Reaction score
5,646
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Just my two cents - with all the other things I need to fix on my truck I would never go through the trouble of doing a complete A/C delete.

When I got my truck it was missing the compressor, brackets and a couple hoses, and I just left it that way for about about a year. It ran fine and the heater worked fine.

There is really no need to try to remove the A/C evaporator housing unless you need that engine compartment space for something. Just plug up the lines coming out of the evaporator and call it a day. Then strip out the compressor, A/C hoses and the condenser. -- A/C deleted!!

Bruce
I wanted cleanliness, as I'm never putting a/c back in this truck. Ever. I know I know... someone else might want to have a/c down the road, well then they can put it in, I didn't hack anything past repair.

I also had to do a heater core at the time so both hvac boxes were out of the truck. Basically it's situational, it can always be put back in if you don't hack it up, or you might plan on never putting a/c back in.
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,853
Reaction score
5,646
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
ever consider a swap for any of them; spice up one of the more run down 350s? or you a strict 350 guy
Most of them will end up with aluminum heads one day. They're all gettin aluminum intakes and msd distributors, a few already have aluminum intakes. I'm gonna build a hot 350 for my 70 c10, that truck will be like a tribute to the older dirt track guy I got it from, so it'll be pretty spicy. But for the most part other than the aluminum heads they'll be pretty mildly built.

Otherwise 350's and 12 valve Cummins are all that I'm going to keep in my vehicles.

Hell even my cab and chassis truck. It was a 454 and I bought it with no motor, plan was to put a 350 in for awhile till I get a 12 valve swap ready. I dunno man I just grew up around them my whole life, love the power band and sound, while it doesn't guzzle fuel or weigh as much as a big block.

Also I know them like the back of my hand, I can have a full motor tore down to a completely bare block ready to be baked or hot tanked, I can do it right over an hour, that's marking bolts and accessories and putting them away. I've never tried a speed run I guess lol.
 

Raider L

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2020
Posts
1,892
Reaction score
1,001
Location
Shreveport, LA
First Name
William
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
355
Powerhouse Ranch,

The only thing you may have to relocate is the heater speed control. It's the little box that has the different size wires in it that are for the different fan speeds. It's inside the evaporator box. I located mine inside the duct work in the cab under the dash. I put it inside one of the solid ducts and pop riveted it to the plastic duct. The other is the blower relay which you can see in PrairieDrifter's, photo, the second one that has the new wires going to it.

I did a complete delete, cut the evap. box off and sheet metaled over the hole. Everything is the same under the dash. My truck is a '74 and the heater core is under the dash inside part of the a/c box left over under the dash. When that sucker leaks, it leaks down the fire wall inside the cab and goes under the carpet. When I rebuilt my truck I had new insulation and brand new carpet and some years later the core went out and I had to rip all the insulation out and washed the carpet. All that was glued down because I had it all done professionally, and it was hard to rip out the insulation. It came out in shreds. It was a huge mess.

But if you just do what PrairieDrifter is saying if you don't want to do a complete delete you'll be fine. And the heat will work fine. And if you know like I do these square bodies have great heat. I don't ever turn mine on, I just move the temp lever over and that's enough.
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,853
Reaction score
5,646
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Powerhouse Ranch,

The only thing you may have to relocate is the heater speed control. It's the little box that has the different size wires in it that are for the different fan speeds. It's inside the evaporator box. I located mine inside the duct work in the cab under the dash. I put it inside one of the solid ducts and pop riveted it to the plastic duct. The other is the blower relay which you can see in PrairieDrifter's, photo, the second one that has the new wires going to it.

I did a complete delete, cut the evap. box off and sheet metaled over the hole. Everything is the same under the dash. My truck is a '74 and the heater core is under the dash inside part of the a/c box left over under the dash. When that sucker leaks, it leaks down the fire wall inside the cab and goes under the carpet. When I rebuilt my truck I had new insulation and brand new carpet and some years later the core went out and I had to rip all the insulation out and washed the carpet. All that was glued down because I had it all done professionally, and it was hard to rip out the insulation. It came out in shreds. It was a huge mess.

But if you just do what PrairieDrifter is saying if you don't want to do a complete delete you'll be fine. And the heat will work fine. And if you know like I do these square bodies have great heat. I don't ever turn mine on, I just move the temp lever over and that's enough.
If he leaves the box alone on the firewall side he won't have to relocate it, which is what it sounds like he wants to do. I mounted my resistor block on the new outer box, right underneath the heater core hoses in the second picture as well.

I was an idiot and didn't know anything about the hvac system when I took the a/c out originally, and I cut the relay harness so I had to get a new one lol. But I used the factory harness and connector for the resistor block, which is why it's harder to see.
 

Powerhouse Ranch

3G Connoisseur
Joined
Jan 6, 2021
Posts
1,465
Reaction score
2,629
Location
PA
First Name
Luke
Truck Year
1980 & 1988
Truck Model
C25 & V15
Engine Size
454 & 350
Powerhouse Ranch,

The only thing you may have to relocate is the heater speed control. It's the little box that has the different size wires in it that are for the different fan speeds. It's inside the evaporator box. I located mine inside the duct work in the cab under the dash. I put it inside one of the solid ducts and pop riveted it to the plastic duct. The other is the blower relay which you can see in PrairieDrifter's, photo, the second one that has the new wires going to it.

I did a complete delete, cut the evap. box off and sheet metaled over the hole. Everything is the same under the dash. My truck is a '74 and the heater core is under the dash inside part of the a/c box left over under the dash. When that sucker leaks, it leaks down the fire wall inside the cab and goes under the carpet. When I rebuilt my truck I had new insulation and brand new carpet and some years later the core went out and I had to rip all the insulation out and washed the carpet. All that was glued down because I had it all done professionally, and it was hard to rip out the insulation. It came out in shreds. It was a huge mess.

But if you just do what PrairieDrifter is saying if you don't want to do a complete delete you'll be fine. And the heat will work fine. And if you know like I do these square bodies have great heat. I don't ever turn mine on, I just move the temp lever over and that's enough.

yeah i hope to leave the evap box on, and as stated before would love it there's some kind of caps/plugs good metal ones or something to put on accumulator ports when i remove all the hoses
 

Paladin

"Teufelshunde"
Joined
Jan 1, 2018
Posts
1,726
Reaction score
6,066
Location
Wichita Falls, Texas
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
C30 Silverado Crew Cab Dually
Engine Size
468
My Big Block loves all that extra room since I made that evaporator box disappear!:party52:
You must be registered for see images attach
 

oldretiredafguy

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2020
Posts
1,419
Reaction score
3,235
Location
N. Texas
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
1988, 1988, 1991, 1983
Truck Model
GMC V-Jimmy, GMC Suburban 4WD, GMC Suburban 4WD, GMC-2500 CrewCab
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350
Now this is just me, but as a Southerner born and reared, you guys are nuttier than fruitcakes [the ones that Aunt Ethel and Uncle Fred give out at Christmas] for deleting an AC in a truck. Hell sometimes we try to figure out down here how to put a 2nd one in!
 

Powerhouse Ranch

3G Connoisseur
Joined
Jan 6, 2021
Posts
1,465
Reaction score
2,629
Location
PA
First Name
Luke
Truck Year
1980 & 1988
Truck Model
C25 & V15
Engine Size
454 & 350
Now this is just me, but as a Southerner born and reared, you guys are nuttier than fruitcakes [the ones that Aunt Ethel and Uncle Fred give out at Christmas] for deleting an AC in a truck. Hell sometimes we try to figure out down here how to put a 2nd one in!

i understand what you mean, but being that i live in PA, my ac system is already heavily raped, windows down is cool enough and it is a Jimmy so the cap will be off, AC is not a necessity to me
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,263
Reaction score
2,206
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
It’s also nice to have the A/C working in humid 35-55 degree weather, since it automatically turns on the A/C compressor when you put it in defrost. Clears up moisture from the windshield much faster.

Bruce
 

Powerhouse Ranch

3G Connoisseur
Joined
Jan 6, 2021
Posts
1,465
Reaction score
2,629
Location
PA
First Name
Luke
Truck Year
1980 & 1988
Truck Model
C25 & V15
Engine Size
454 & 350
It’s also nice to have the A/C working in humid 35-55 degree weather, since it automatically turns on the A/C compressor when you put it in defrost. Clears up moisture from the windshield much faster.

Bruce

hang on, being my ac compressor is missing entirely, will i not have defrosting capabilities?
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,853
Reaction score
5,646
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
It’s also nice to have the A/C working in humid 35-55 degree weather, since it automatically turns on the A/C compressor when you put it in defrost. Clears up moisture from the windshield much faster.

Bruce
I live in ND land of the 160 degree temperature range lol. I haven't had much issues at all, 100% humidity and all. The moisture usually starts from running the a/c in the first place..

The only time is when it's really cold and you breath onto the windows it fogs em up, but that's only as the truck is warming up. As long as your truck is decently sealed and your windows cleaned every now and then it won't be an issue.

Think about the 1000's of these trucks that came factory with no a/c.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,162
Posts
950,639
Members
36,273
Latest member
dannyphx
Top