Add a Tach

[Kasey 1977 K10]

I have a 1977 Scottsdale K10. It has the original cluster without a tachometer. I'd really like to add one. Does anybody have any advice on which one to get, how hard it is to install and placement options? Thanks in advance!

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[vkh]

lmc sells a tach/fuel gauge combo if you want to keep your gas gauge in the same spot. They also sell regular tachs and the little fuel gauges along with a new printed circuit if you want it to look totally factory. Then there are a few brands that sell all new clusters but those are quite pricey. And of course you can work in just about any aftermarket tach with some massaging and wiring. I guess the real questions are do you want it to look factory and how much are you willing to spend?

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

lmc sells a tach/fuel gauge combo if you want to keep your gas gauge in the same spot. They also sell regular tachs and the little fuel gauges along with a new printed circuit if you want it to look totally factory. Then there are a few brands that sell all new clusters but those are quite pricey. And of course you can work in just about any aftermarket tach with some massaging and wiring. I guess the real questions are do you want it to look factory and how much are you willing to spend?

I couldn't find the tach/fuel combo on LMC but I did find some on other sites. I like the idea of that setup. How much wiring would be necessary? I assume that wouldn't be just plug and play since my cluster didn't originally support a tach.

 

[vkh]

I couldn't find the tach/fuel combo on LMC but I did find some on other sites. I like the idea of that setup. How much wiring would be necessary? I assume that wouldn't be just plug and play since my cluster didn't originally support a tach.

Huh, I looked for the combo myself, couldn't find it either. I coulda sworn LMC had it, guess I'm mistaken. If they were smart with the combo gauge it would use the power and ground connection already there for the fuel gauge. So you would just have to run 1 wire to the distributor, if that's the case (I bet it is). If not a tach only needs 3 wires, ignition switch power, ground, and the connection to the distributor. Hopefully someone who has bought on of those combo gauges can chime in.

 

[vkh]

Looking at this site http://gmsports.com/content/new-tachometer-1973-1988-chevy-and-gmc-trucks and reading the instructions you would only need to run one wire to the distributor, the power and ground use the existing printed circuit. Though you would need to cut away some of the plastic for it to properly fit (as detailed in instructions). I thought I'd found a couple sites with combos in the past, now for the life of me all I can find is this one.

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

Looking at this site http://gmsports.com/content/new-tachometer-1973-1988-chevy-and-gmc-trucks and reading the instructions you would only need to run one wire to the distributor, the power and ground use the existing printed circuit. Though you would need to cut away some of the plastic for it to properly fit (as detailed in instructions). I thought I'd found a couple sites with combos in the past, now for the life of me all I can find is this one.

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

 

[vkh]

No problem, hope it works well for you.

 

[J Knight]

I put one in my truck a few years ago, loved it.

Note that you can order the older font to match the 73-78 gauge clusters.

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

I put one in my truck a few years ago, loved it.

Note that you can order the older font to match the 73-78 gauge clusters.

Thanks for letting me know about the font. I painted my needles with silver reflective needle paint when I replaced my circuit, bulbs and lens and have some left over for this. How much of the cluster housing did you have to cut out? Is your distributor OEM and if so was it plug and play or did you have to splice into a wire?

 

[J Knight]

Thanks for letting me know about the font. I painted my needles with silver reflective needle paint when I replaced my circuit, bulbs and lens and have some left over for this. How much of the cluster housing did you have to cut out? Is your distributor OEM and if so was it plug and play or did you have to splice into a wire?

You just have to cut a small part of the cluster and it is plug and play with any ignition.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I put one in my truck a few years ago, loved it.

Note that you can order the older font to match the 73-78 gauge clusters.

Mmm, that looks sharp. I'm weirdly sentimental about my "4 Wheel Drive" light, or this would be on my list.

 

[rich weyand]

The gmsports one comes out nice. I like the modern numerals in my 78 because they are larger. I moved the brake indicator lamp over to the other side.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10062
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=28547.0

 

[Daveo91Burb]

Love my GMSports tach! $200 is pricey but worth it IMHO. In the modern squares, you lose the fasten seat belts light (didn't care) and the brake light (moved it to the top of the cluster like where a glow plugs light would be for a diesel).

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=HsYCQnCD__8

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

Love my GMSports tach! $200 is pricey but worth it IMHO. In the modern squares, you lose the fasten seat belts light (didn't care) and the brake light (moved it to the top of the cluster like where a glow plugs light would be for a diesel).

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=HsYCQnCD__8

I have the cluster without a clock so my brake light is on the bottom left.. though it doesn't currently work. I think my 4 wheel drive light or seat belt light is what I'd lose but that doesn't bother me since its pretty easy to tell when I'm in 4 which is rare and it also doesn't currently work. Non working lights: brake, seat belt, 4 wheel drive and left turn signal indicator.

 

[Dsprick93]

I have an 81 GMC Sierra classic and I bought a tack from AutoZone it's the Protech white tag it's like 6199 it works fine all the way up until I have replaced my ignition coil cuz it went bad and ever since I replaced it I never change no wires or anything it's still doing now it's not working at all like don't even move or nothing the lotto come on when I turn my lights on but it don't read my revolutions any pointers on if that Tech maybe won't work with this new coil cuz it's not expensive coils just cheap one