AC bracket manifold bolt

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

johns87

Junior Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2017
Posts
13
Reaction score
4
Location
Orlando, FL
First Name
John
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
5.7
I have an 1987 350, and was removing the headers that where on there. The AC bracket bolt broke off in the block and I'm trying to find a replacement stud. I know its a 3/8 x 16 and looks like overall length was 3.5 inches, but I cannot find one anywhere. Has anyone else been able to source one, or have any recommendations?
 

Preston

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2019
Posts
787
Reaction score
355
Location
Mechanicsville VA
First Name
Preston
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
We have a Bolt company here called Trios I think there is also fastenal not sure of my spelling of either but you May do a search on the www and find them. Also the lumber stores have some bolts not sure if they have the right one and tractor supply. Good luck hope it’s not too hard to get the broken one out.
 

donnieray

Talks to dogs and trucks.
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Posts
619
Reaction score
517
Location
Roanoke Rapids NC
First Name
Donnie
Truck Year
84,85,86.
Truck Model
86 C10, 84 K10 MM7 NP833 option truck, 85 K10.
Engine Size
350,355;350.
I had to use a piece of grade eight all-thread and a jamb nut in the middle when that happened once. I was told you could get them through a dealer but haven't confirmed it.
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,706
Reaction score
58,941
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
Its a stud? Would a piece that length of threaded rod work? Think I have some.

Also think I have a grade 8 bolt that length too.
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,446
Reaction score
28,348
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
You mean the bolt that has a 1" or so stud on the head of it? That goes in one of the forward manifold bolt holes?

I have a few of those, but unfortunately I'm not home for at least a few more days. But I might be able to get my wife to find one in the garage. Maybe, lol.
 

johns87

Junior Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2017
Posts
13
Reaction score
4
Location
Orlando, FL
First Name
John
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
5.7
That is exactly the bolt/stud. I finally had to give up and trailer it to the exhaust shop that was going to work on the exhaust. I tried an extractor, but after that broke off in there, going to need to try something different. The exhaust shop said they could weld a nut on it and be done... so we shall see. He also said he had some threaded rod that he'd be able to use.

Nothing like trying to do it to save $200 in labor and then having to spend 200$ to fix it...damn truck, it hates me I swear.
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,706
Reaction score
58,941
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
One thing I always have in my box is a 1/4" and a 3/8" carbide ball endmill (4 fluted). Put it in a drill and slowly turn whatever is in there to dust. I watched a guy fight with a broken 8mm bolt in a block for 2 hours as he didn't want to damage the threads - I used a 1/4" end mill and had it gutted in 2 min. Have to almost watch yourself...it goes through cast and most anything else like butter. Grade 8's are a PITA but will still drill out.

My 2c...and 20yrs of tool and die. lol
 

donnieray

Talks to dogs and trucks.
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Posts
619
Reaction score
517
Location
Roanoke Rapids NC
First Name
Donnie
Truck Year
84,85,86.
Truck Model
86 C10, 84 K10 MM7 NP833 option truck, 85 K10.
Engine Size
350,355;350.
One thing I always have in my box is a 1/4" and a 3/8" carbide ball endmill (4 fluted). Put it in a drill and slowly turn whatever is in there to dust. I watched a guy fight with a broken 8mm bolt in a block for 2 hours as he didn't want to damage the threads - I used a 1/4" end mill and had it gutted in 2 min. Have to almost watch yourself...it goes through cast and most anything else like butter. Grade 8's are a PITA but will still drill out.

My 2c...and 20yrs of tool and die. lol
Damn good advice, I'm in industrial maintenance and deal with broken bolts way to much. Going to find those end mill bits right now.
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,706
Reaction score
58,941
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
The Niagra Cutters are a great deal - very reasonable and good quality ($15-ish each) - I see them on feebay alot for decent prices. You can buy the 'bigger brands' like Kennemetals, etc for 2-3x more but IMO not worth it. Pretty sure the NC's are made in USA too (at least the last batch I bought were). I get them 2-3 of each size at a time as availability can be sporadic - machine shops buy 100's at a time. Big thing is to make sure they are 4 fluted. Two fluted will catch and chip, especially in a hole with jagged pieces of broken drill in it - then you have particles of carbide to add to your broken bolt....next up from there is a larger hole and helicoil only because they dont sell thermonuclear devices that small :Sumo: . A four flute is like a clenched fist....will burrow through with little chance of chipping. Dont push too hard either - can go too deep too fast (no joke).

I've also used them as starters for holes in thick steel too. They sell carbide drills but I still like these better for the chipping reason.
 
Last edited:

donnieray

Talks to dogs and trucks.
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Posts
619
Reaction score
517
Location
Roanoke Rapids NC
First Name
Donnie
Truck Year
84,85,86.
Truck Model
86 C10, 84 K10 MM7 NP833 option truck, 85 K10.
Engine Size
350,355;350.
The Niagra Cutters are a great deal - very reasonable and good quality ($15-ish each) - I see them on feebay alot for decent prices. You can buy the 'bigger brands' like Kennemetals, etc for 2-3x more but IMO not worth it. Pretty sure the NC's are made in USA too (at least the last batch I bought were). I get them 2-3 of each size at a time as availability can be sporadic - machine shops buy 100's at a time. Big thing is to make sure they are 4 fluted. Two fluted will catch and chip, especially in a hole with jagged pieces of broken drill in it - then you have particles of carbide to add to your broken bolt....next up from there is a larger hole and helicoil only because they dont sell thermonuclear devices that small :Sumo: . A four flute is like a clenched fist....will burrow through with little chance of chipping. Dont push too hard either - can go too deep too fast (no joke).

I've also used them as starters for holes in thick steel too. They sell carbide drills but I still like these better for the chipping reason.
I'll look for the NC brand. We have some ball end mill bits for our milling deck but I'll be buying some for personal use. I just never heard of using them in a hand drill. BAMM!
 

4WDKC

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2016
Posts
2,366
Reaction score
1,090
Location
Southern Florida
First Name
Kacy
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V10
Engine Size
350
perfect time to swap in a serpentine belt system.
 

WFO

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Posts
3,688
Reaction score
5,035
Location
Texas Panhandle
First Name
Dan
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
perfect time to swap in a serpentine belt system.
I never cared for all that bulky lookin cast aluminum on a serpentine setup.
Plus, I like having that second belt turning the water pump if you need to limp on in to the next town after throwing an alternator belt.
 

4WDKC

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2016
Posts
2,366
Reaction score
1,090
Location
Southern Florida
First Name
Kacy
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V10
Engine Size
350
I never cared for all that bulky lookin cast aluminum on a serpentine setup.
Plus, I like having that second belt turning the water pump if you need to limp on in to the next town after throwing an alternator belt.

Ive never seen an serp belt thrown, Ive seen idler pulleys lock up, or an alternator explode the internals ( it rattled and pieces fell out when you shook it). hell I just sold under drive pulleys to a guy that had an air bag blow causing the truck to slam down on the big wheels sending parts into the serp belt that caused 2 of the 6 ribs on the belt to shred off but he still was able to drive it an hour to my house to buy the pulleys and belt.

But if you dont like the looks its understand able.
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,134
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Nothing like trying to do it to save $200 in labor and then having to spend 200$ to fix it...damn truck, it hates me I swear.

In many cases the trucks have spent a LONG TIME getting treated like sh- and I think by the time they make it HERE, they are straight-up JADED.

It's a labor of love to set it all straight! At least that's what I have told myself previously..:shrug:but now waiting on the bill from my trans installer.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
44,169
Posts
950,808
Members
36,286
Latest member
goodwrenchca
Top