A couple fuel related questions

[ryan.johnson]

Would that leave the carb dry or would there still be fuel in the bowls? As far as I can tell nothing is touching anytjing hot, but my carb fuel lines are close to the block. When it dies there is still fuel in the carb.

 

[ryan.johnson]

Just a little update on my issue(s):

Well I done goofed.

I re-ran some fuel lines to get angles I was happy with and checked the fuel temp at running temperature- somewhere between 200 and 210 oil temp.

That didn't fix it. Doesn't look like vap lock or line restrictions

The fuel pump I had ordered came in, turns out I ordered a pump with no return line.
Got fed up with myself and bought an off the shelf pump and installed that.

That didn't fix it, but it did start some more issues!

started looking at the smog system thinking I was pulling a vacuum in the gas tank, and I was all sorts of confused as to what the p.o. did, capping lines with 9mm casings and screws.

Couldn't figure out where everything went so I loosened the gas cap and went out to buy a Haynes manual. That did not go well. Accelerator was lagging and it kept stalling. Pulled the fuel vent line off the charcoal canister on the way back and babied it, didn't stall but ran like absolute crap.

So here's how I see it: I've got two issues now. carb is not getting consistent fuel supply, but when it does get fuel its spraying too much in- possibly because of the pump?

Tomorrow I'm going to try and buy some stiffer fuel line and bypass the selector valve, I'm either collapsing a line or the valve is bad. Or so I think.

eventually I'd like to figure out all the smog equipment.


any help/ advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Stewzer55]

Is it possible that your return line is clogged?

 

[87ChevyR10]

True, I just wanted to make sure he's operating the switch correctly and not spending money changing parts that don't need it. Some aren't aware you need to hold the switch for a couple seconds and wait for everything to take place.

The OP has an '84. If Chevy/GM quit using the momentary switches in '83, then he should have a simple toggle switch like my '87 does. If that's the case, there shouldn't be any need to "hold" the switch down at all. When I switch tanks, my truck shuts off as soon as it switches to the empty tank. Takes only a second for this to happen.

 

[ryan.johnson]

Is it possible that your return line is clogged?

i think this was the culprit, I bypassed the switch the other day and there was a lot of pressure/fuel when i pulled the return off, and very little when i pulled the supply.

Started it up and my radiator started leaking pretty bad so I shut her down for the night, wasnt in the mood for it.

Radiator be damned, I had to drive to work that morning. Ran like complete crap, kept stalling while it was warming up and was idling really low the whole way there, BUT it didn't look like a fuel issue! the filter was full of fuel the whole time.

So I'm assuming something is wrong with the selector valve/switch, but I need to run it on the highway to make sure my fuel flow is good with it bypassed.

I need to figure out whats up with the idle/running first. Think my rotor or ignition module is toast in my distributor, not sure.

and of course I need to patch or replace my radiator.

 

[jnt412]

I think you mentioned earlier that the PO capped some vacuum lines. On my 84 K10, my vacuum lines seem to noodle everywhere (need to clean it up one day). If I remove one or more vacuum hoses from the Char. Canister, the truck will idle rough. Once those TVS Ports start to warm up, it should idle pretty good for emissions sake.