A/C Question

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

kalger

Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2022
Posts
32
Reaction score
53
Location
Silverton, Oregon
First Name
Ken
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
1500
Engine Size
350
I'm working on removing my SBC 350 from my 1975 GMC C1500. It has factory A/C that doesn't work. Not sure what the issue is, probably the compressor. Anyway, what are the options to remove all the A/C bits and pieces (not sure how charged the system is still) and then put everything back together, get a new compressor, and charge the system with coolant that's compatible with what's in place?

Thanks.
 

Scott91370

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2018
Posts
999
Reaction score
1,022
Location
Burleson, Tx
First Name
Scott
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
Sierra1500
Engine Size
350
There are only 4 main parts to the system:
Compressor, Condenser, Accumulator (drier) and Evaporator.

If you open it for any reason you should replace the accumulator/drier - this removes moisture.
You could start by replacing the compressor and drier which will usually solve the issue - if it is not electrical in nature.

That's about all I can help you with. I have a friend that does auto a/c work so I don't touch it.
When I did mine last year everything got replace so I could run whatever the latest refrigerant is.
 

fast 99

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2021
Posts
2,033
Reaction score
2,951
Location
Spokane, Washington
First Name
Brian
Truck Year
81,85
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
It's not difficult but some procedures need to be followed. Any part not replaced needs to be flushed of oil and contaminates. In addition to previous post replace all lines and seals. Buy a conversion kit. Replace hoses if original, they are too old, 134A is a smaller molecule will leak easier. New hoses are made out of barrier material. Replacement compressors will work with 134A. Follow oil fill amount and total fill quantity. Will need to be vacuumed down before refill. Easiest to have a shop refill the system. If you want to do it yourself a gauge set, pump and scale will be needed. Not sure about Oregon but in Washington small cans of refrigerant are banned.
 

Ricko1966

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Posts
5,480
Reaction score
8,801
Location
kansas
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
At this stage of the game and not knowing the charge status,what works,etc. I'd unbolt the compressor. Bungee it to one side, pull my engine and leave my AC alone until I had my drivetrain Ironed out. Less stuff to lose,no AC to discharge,etc. At this stage of the game for all you know it's charged and works but has no power to AC clutch etc.
 
Last edited:

CalSgt

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2021
Posts
1,704
Reaction score
3,777
Location
CA
First Name
Casey
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
Chevy K-10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350
At this stage of the game and not knowing the charge status,what works,etc. I'd unbolt the compressor. Bungee it to one side, pull my engine and leave my AC alone until I had my drivetrain Ironed out. Less stuff to lose,no AC to discharge,etc. At this stage if the game fir all you know it's charged and and but has no power to AC clutch etc.
I'm with Rick on this one...

Unless you are prepared to do a complete overhaul of the system at the same time as the engine, just leave it be.

Also, first thing I would check is the charge on the system. If it is slightly charged it will not allow the compressor to start, it may just need a re-charge to start working again.
 

Matt69olds

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2018
Posts
2,452
Reaction score
3,823
Location
Central Indiana
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
GMC 1/2 ton
Engine Size
455 Olds
If the truck is still driveable, take somewhere to have the system evacuated. That will answer 2 big questions: does the system still have refrigerate (meaning no big leaks) and if in fact it still still charged that means your issue is electrical.

You’re probably going to find the system low on charge. The A6 compressor was designed long before the ozone layer was a concern, the front seal on the compressor is designed to leak. As the system leaks, it takes oil with it, keeping the seal lubricated. If you look at the underhood insulation of A6 equipped cars you can see a perfect outline of compressor oil spray pattern.

If the system has a partial charge, once it’s evacuated replace every o-ring, replace the hoses, and recharge.
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,276
Reaction score
2,220
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
The old A6 compressor is a true boat anchor, and it has heavy brackets to keep it supported. It’s also now old and not very reliable (do a search on A6 Black Death). It uses R12 and mineral oil, while current systems are usually R134 and PAG oil.

A complete explanation of how to convert or replace it would be quite long, since there are multiple choices to make as you go along. I did convert my ‘75 GMC to use a Sanden compressor and R134, and I learned a lot along the way.

For now I would just disconnect every A/C line, zip tie and tape a plastic bag over the end of the fitting to keep out moisture and dirt, and then remove the compressor.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,197
Posts
951,413
Members
36,330
Latest member
RMSLighting
Top