87 tbi stalls at lights and shifting in gears. Unless timing disconected.

[notverrysmart]

I had a similar problem with my holly tb, I had to adjust my tps to 0.65 volts with the throttle plates closed. I cant remember if the tps on the stock tb is adjustable but that could be something to check.

 

[Jims86]

Sounds to me like it may be running lean with the advance connector hooked up, and when you disconnect it, timing goes down, which richens things up a little bit.
Problems like this have sometimes been traced back to the rubber line between the fuel pump, and the sender, being split....thing is, thats a bitch to check, because its in the tank. i would say, that after all your mechanic has been through its the next place to look. Do you have access to a fuel pressure tester?

 

[thaifighter]

Find out If your mechanic had the obd hooked to a diagnostic computer not just a code reader which Im pretty sure he should have because to run in a closed loop the diagnostic computer will tell you if the o2 sensor is working how many ohms the tps is at if the aic is working and so on
if the mechanic was able to read in closed loop its probably not your control module aka onboard computer
I doubt if its in youre fuel delivery or you would probably notice it on the highway you can check fuel delivery without a pressure guage by pulling of the ""line in" to the carb and turning the key on for 15 sec measure that amount of fuel you collect in a jar
you would have to find that amount for youre vehicle either in youre manual or on the net
Make sure to check for vacum leaks use a little propane torch with a hose on the nozzle and point it all around like bottom of tbi around intake manifold vacume hoses etc if there is a leak you will hear the rpms raise when the propaine is sucked into the leak

Now I think youre mechanic changed youre intake manifold gasket because he suspected leaks but that seams like allot of work for nothing when i can be checked in other ways another oldschool way is to hose down the engine while its running if it begins to hesitate its sucking in water and you have a vacum leak

 

[Jims86]

Find out If your mechanic had the obd hooked to a diagnostic computer not just a code reader which Im pretty sure he should have because to run in a closed loop the diagnostic computer will tell you if the o2 sensor is working how many ohms the tps is at if the aic is working and so on
if the mechanic was able to read in closed loop its probably not your control module aka onboard computer
I doubt if its in youre fuel delivery or you would probably notice it on the highway you can check fuel delivery without a pressure guage by pulling of the ""line in" to the carb and turning the key on for 15 sec measure that amount of fuel you collect in a jar
you would have to find that amount for youre vehicle either in youre manual or on the net
Make sure to check for vacum leaks use a little propane torch with a hose on the nozzle and point it all around like bottom of tbi around intake manifold vacume hoses etc if there is a leak you will hear the rpms raise when the propaine is sucked into the leak

Now I think youre mechanic changed youre intake manifold gasket because he suspected leaks but that seams like allot of work for nothing when i can be checked in other ways another oldschool way is to hose down the engine while its running if it begins to hesitate its sucking in water and you have a vacum leak

*you can collect as much fuel in a jar that you want, still need to check fuel pressure.
*fuel pump will not run for 2-3seconds with key on, unless pin G has 12 volts applied to it, and thats if GM even ran the Fuel pump test wire to the ALDL....some got it, some didnt.
I agree that a diagnostic computer should be used, or a laptop with an ALDL cable, and a Data logging program.
It would also be interesting to see what the Torque Converter Lockup circut is doing, if he has a 700r4.
Spookey, you should check your distibutor too...check for play and cracks or other damage to the pickup coil inside the dist.

 

[thaifighter]

Sorry you should crank the engine for 15 sec not just "turn on the key" Oh and unplug the center plug wire on youre ditributor too before cranking

Yes the torque converter lockup is where I would look into after checking for vacume leaks and taking the throttle body off and doing a thorough cleaning and inspect the aic pintle bore for pitting and uneven wear and the pintle itself for carbon deposits unless I think you said it was replaced

Does the vehicle shudder as if going over railway tracks before it stalls?
That would be an idicator of torque converter lockup solenoid