Easy - 2-3 hours max.
In the engine compartment, release the nut and pull the bolt that secures the intermediate shaft to the lower column shaft. While you're right there, pull the cotter pin from the shift rod and release the shift rod from the crank arm on the shift tube. Also remove the nuts/bolts from the column to dash clamp. The upper half of the clamp is part of the FW and stays put, set the the lower half aside:
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You'll have this - and the engine side is done.
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In the cab:
1. The lower column trim cover and dash filler plate come off:
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2. With those removed, you'll be looking at this:
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3. To drop the column you'll need to release the clip on the end of the gear indicator wire:
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From where it clips to the bowl shroud. Do it now, so you don't forget:
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4. Then just release the two nuts that secure the column bracket to the instrument panel support. Lower the column until the steering wheel rests on the seat:
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Unplug the harness connectors that attach to the various switches and cable ribbons as necessary. You might have to do the ones on the underside of the column first - before you lower the column. Then, after the column is free - and the steering wheel is resting on the front seat, you will be able to disconnect the harness connectors on the top of the column.
Dive under the dash and pull the harness connector from the back-up lights switch at the very base of the column:
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Almost done. Carefully spread the firewall insulation open to gain access to the lower column seal bolts. There is a slit in the cardboard and jute that extends from the column down - use it to open the pad up and fold it back:
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With the insulation pad out of the way, you can see the heads of the column seal plate bolts. There are five of them.
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Release them and draw the engine side of the column into the cab. You might need to rotate the column a bit to pass the shift lever arm through the FW opening. That's it.
Install your new column in reverse order.