87 3/4 Burban

[Arkansas_V8]

Sweet. Lots of info guys thanks. She’s black and grey.
I got 3.73 gears. I got tbi350 any of you guys see any significant power loss running 33 or 35?
And arough country springs aren’t that bad?

thanks

Rough Country springs are not that bad. They don’t have as much flex as some others, but they ride decent and can handle weight.

 

[RecklessWOT]

Sweet. Lots of info guys thanks. She’s black and grey.
I got 3.73 gears. I got tbi350 any of you guys see any significant power loss running 33 or 35?
And arough country springs aren’t that bad?

thanks

I have 3.73s and 33s, it's terrible. Switching to 4.27 is basically stock gearing but those are not as common to find. 4.10s are more common and better than nothing, but I opted for a set of 4.56s personally, because the 700R4 is a dog between 1st and 2nd, and let's face it even with fuel injection 210hp isn't a lot to lug around a 6,000lb truck so the extra torque will be nice. Not too short for the highway either, I know it's a big number and sounds crazy but with 33s it will still a good fit, probably perfect for 35s. The overdrive on a 700R4 is SUPER tall so it won't even really hold you back on the highway, unless of course you plan on going like 120mph lol. (btw that a is super scary experience in a lifted square Suburban, I don't recommend it...)

^and what brent said about the RC springs. They're not bad. A little stiff over stock 1/2 ton springs, but for a 3/4 ton it should feel right at home.

 

[bucket]

But the whole point in lifting a truck is to increase it's offroad capabilities. Having stiff springs that reduce flex are kind of defeating the purpose. If you have to skimp on everything, that's fine. But if you are going to skimp in just a couple places, the springs aren't a good place to do it.

 

[bucket]

Also, the OP's Burb is a 3/4 ton rig, presumably with a th400. No finicky 700r4 to deal with.

 

[RecklessWOT]

But the whole point in lifting a truck is to increase it's offroad capabilities. Having stiff springs that reduce flex are kind of defeating the purpose. If you have to skimp on everything, that's fine. But if you are going to skimp in just a couple places, the springs aren't a good place to do it.

Yeah I hear you there. But OP also said he was just going to be going down logging roads, hunting, camping, etc. Simply having more ground clearance and bigger tires will make the truck more than capable of doing that, don't need to worry about flex the guy won't be rock crawling or anything. Might as well save a few bucks, no need to buy fancy springs that flex better if you're not gonna use the truck like that. Better than using blocks because at least you don't have to worry about axle wrap

 

[RecklessWOT]

Also, the OP's Burb is a 3/4 ton rig, presumably with a th400. No finicky 700r4 to deal with.

Oh I didn't think about that. If you don't have overdrive, 4.56s will be too short for any highway driving. Maybe a set of 4.10s would be a good all around setup, though mathematically switching to 4.27s will put you back at factory gearing if you like the way it feels now

 

[bucket]

Yeah I hear you there. But OP also said he was just going to be going down logging roads, hunting, camping, etc. Simply having more ground clearance and bigger tires will make the truck more than capable of doing that, don't need to worry about flex the guy won't be rock crawling or anything. Might as well save a few bucks, no need to buy fancy springs that flex better if you're not gonna use the truck like that. Better than using blocks because at least you don't have to worry about axle wrap

It really comes down to what you are comfortable with and how much you value ride quality. Even if it's not a daily driver, I prefer not to have my gear tossed all about the rig while going camping and I like my coffee to stay in it's mug too.

And as a side note, blocks work perfectly fine in the rear, so long as it's not a high horsepower and/or manual transmission truck. The factory 56" rear springs are a nice piece of engineering, may as well keep them and save money there. If rear blocks are absolutely a concern, a shackle flip kit is cheaper than aftermarket springs, especially ones that will actually flex well like the factory springs.

 

[Arkansas_V8]

But the whole point in lifting a truck is to increase it's offroad capabilities. Having stiff springs that reduce flex are kind of defeating the purpose. If you have to skimp on everything, that's fine. But if you are going to skimp in just a couple places, the springs aren't a good place to do it.

It really comes down to what you are comfortable with and how much you value ride quality. Even if it's not a daily driver, I prefer not to have my gear tossed all about the rig while going camping and I like my coffee to stay in it's mug too.

And as a side note, blocks work perfectly fine in the rear, so long as it's not a high horsepower and/or manual transmission truck. The factory 56" rear springs are a nice piece of engineering, may as well keep them and save money there. If rear blocks are absolutely a concern, a shackle flip kit is cheaper than aftermarket springs, especially ones that will actually flex well like the factory springs.

When I say they don’t flex as much as others I am not saying they are horrible. On the rocks I will lift a tire before someone with custom springs. But I can still stuff them and get around just fine.


As far as blocks- they are trash if you plan to offroad any significant amount. I had blocks for a while and even in mud I would get axle wrap(noticeable). I don’t know if thats partly due to the 56” springs though. I never ran blocks on my old 1/2 ton suburban with 52” springs.

 

[bucket]

I dunno. I've been in rigs with Rough Country springs and owned one with Rancho springs that were a similar spring rate. There's a big difference compared to springs that cost just a little bit more. And I'm not talking custom springs.

I've also put rear blocks in some very abusive situations and not had spring wrap with 56's. Yeah, I know it can happen, but blocks and spring wrap don't necessarily go hand in hand. Especially not on a mild trail rig. Millions of of 4x4 trucks have come factory installed with rear blocks in the 2-4" range.

And again, if someone is so against blocks, use a shackle flip kit. It's much cheaper than rear springs that will ride well. And cheaper than the springs that will ride like a log wagon too. Take the money saved and buy front springs that ride well.

All the cheap trucks that ride like **** are the ones that give old 4x4 trucks a bad name.

/rant

 

[bucket]

Sorry if I came off sounding disgruntled, I'm really not lol.

 

[RecklessWOT]

I dunno. I've been in rigs with Rough Country springs and owned one with Rancho springs that were a similar spring rate. There's a big difference compared to springs that cost just a little bit more. And I'm not talking custom springs.

And again, if someone is so against blocks, use a shackle flip kit. It's much cheaper than rear springs that will ride well. And cheaper than the springs that will ride like a log wagon too. Take the money saved and buy front springs that ride well.

All the cheap trucks that ride like **** are the ones that give old 4x4 trucks a bad name.

/rant

And quite the other way around on my end. I have had some (semi)serious trail rigs in the past and you're right for those I would want nice flexy springs and removable sway bar links. But for something that's mostly going to be driven on the street and some dirt roads once in a while, I couldn't imagine wanting a super soft ride. The idea of getting rid of the sway bar and using soft springs, in my opinion that means it rides like ****. It would be nice to go around an offramp without feeling like I'm gonna tip over, and hitting a few bumps on a dirt road doesn't bother me, the seat has cushion as well as the natural cushion of your ass. If you want to float around on a waterbed go buy yourself a late 70s eldorado and make yourself seasick. But for me, I'd actually rather have stiffer springs on something that wasn't a purpose built wheeling rig.

Sure, have people literally referred to my truck as "the lumber wagon" in real life, okay fine you're actually right about that but I don't see having a stiff ride as a problem, I actually prefer it that way and if they don't like my preference then they can go ride around in a tippy Ford Explorer or something and be all comfy while I can actual maintain normal driving speed on the road without having to worry about feeling like I'm going to tip over, I actually plan to add a rear sway bar too. I don't drive a 33 year old full size lifted 4x4 truck because I want a comfy ride, if I wanted that I would buy a completely different vehicle. My daily driver is a 4 door AWD sedan, it runs a 12.2 and will damn near put your bottom teeth through your skull over some potholes, but I rarely have to hit the brakes around corners because tight suspension keeps it on course. I have never been concerned with ride quality, if that were the case I'd sell my streetbike and buy a Honda Goldwing lol. Some people value ride quality, and others value street performance. Since it's not exclusively a wheeling rig, it seems like it should at least perform halfway decently on pavement. Removing your sway bar and putting soft springs will do exactly the opposite. Sure it will be great offroad every so often, but it will be a nightmare on real roads where it presumably spend most of its life.

 

[skysurfer]

I guess I prefer a softish ride. I tried Rough Country for a couple of years and really started to hate them so they went in the dumpster (along with the RC shocks) and EZ Ride springs were installed. Much better. Still more firm than stock but at least I wasn't hitting bumps in the road and dislodging the fillings in my teeth anymore.

I've had blocks in the back for almost twenty years and haven't experienced axle wrap. Maybe it's because I'm mostly on Jeep trails and not getting into the gnarly stuff. I do carry a ton of weight (actually, a ton and a half) up some really steep inclines so there's a lot of stress on the drivetrain but it holds up just fine.

Everybody has different needs, but I found the sweet spot for my usage is a 4" lift, 35" tires, and sway bars on both ends to keep it planted during day to day driving.

 

[bucket]

I feel like I'm beating a dead horse here. In no way shape or form am I saying that everyone needs high end, super flexy springs for their basic truck. I'm just saying that it's well worth it to spend JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE on front springs that will retain a FACTORY type ride, rather than shopping for the cheapest damn springs they can find. A little bit goes a long way here.

And anyone that says that it's unsafe, too squishy, too soft, etc to run without a sway bar, in conjunction with off the shelf lift springs, then they haven't actually done it. I was a naysayer too, until I actually tried it. You really couldn't tell on the road. High speeds, interstate on ramps, twisty mountain roads, it was perfectly stable. The only difference was it flexed better offroad.

 

[77 K20]

Figured I'd add to my 3" blocks and axle wrap. My truck came with the thickest spring pack you could get in '77 but they were only 52" springs. And they were well worn. The axle hop wasn't a fast violent one that I had seen on other trucks- it only happened once climbing a long hill in wet heavy snow with my tires aired down to 10 psi. The others that were there watching said it was like watching a rabbit hop up steps- but slowly.

My '78 K10 had 4" blocks and never had that issue. But on that truck I never aired the tires down. Possibly related?

I had Tuff Country HD springs on the front when I had the blocks. (Was hauling and firewood and gravel often). There was one bump that is a water channel across the road. I would hit it square and at 25 mph it was a jarring impact. One day on a suggestion I removed the sway bar and hit that same bump. It was a bump- but not a sharp jarring hit. On the highway and going around corners there was no difference.

In talking to the guys at OffRoad Design they said most of your "perceived ride" comes from the front springs. So if you keep the stock springs on the back with either a block or the shackle flip you can still haul some weight, and if you do want to do some cornering the rear is still stiff and planted. Won't let the whole truck/suburban lean as it would if you put on super soft springs all the way around.

 

[HotRodPC]

Dammit, I didn't need to see this thread !!! All the years and years I wanted a K5. I knew I'd never have one cuz I won't spend that kind of cash for less. Same reason I won't ever have a candy ass shortbed truck. I'm NOT spending more for less just cuz the fan boys will pay stupid money for a shortbed. I decided to SETTLE for a Burb cuz they can be found for damn hear half the price of a K5. And I've always always loved 3/4 ton trucks better. Ride hieght and they feel like you're driving a truck not a station wagon. Also being a street racer of trucks, I've broke the **** out of alot of half ton driveshafts and rear ends and they don't stop for **** at 125 mph on a short street. Once I got my 3/4 ton truck with a Dana 60, and bigger drive shaft, I've broke nothing but transmissions. I was willing to suffer a little ET for the added weight.

Now with all that being said, now I finally find a steal on a K5 project that's 99% rust free and 100% unmolested other than cosmetics hand sanding and rattle can paint. I'm really thinking, if I found a 3/4 ton 4x4 Burb I'd let the K5 go and let one of the fan boys willing to spend to much on less truck pay me to much for it and build me a real truck that can tolerate some abuse and tow a trailer. Of course I still want bucket seats and a tailgate Burb. Not a fan of driving a hearse with barn doors and a blind spot in the middle of my rearview mirror. Yeah I'm picky.