86 K10 5.3 swap

[Camar068]

4l60/4l80 info n such

http://www.truckforum.org/threads/everthing-need-to-know-about-a-4l60e-4l80e.36427/

 

[1low4x4]

I admire the work that goes into this. With all the **** I do on all my squares I figured Id have done an LS swap by now but I don't want the headache

 

[Camar068]

It would be nice if all the info was in one place instead of having to dig through multiple forums. On top of that you have different levels of "half-ass/anal" in the world so you have to sift through the info, form an opinion, and go from there. Budget plays a lot also.

 

[Old Painless]

Have you been on lt1swap.com ? I followed his site to the letter and the thing lit off first shot. Has p/n's and links to tons of the electrical stuff you'll need like fuses, blocks, relays you name it, and shows how to hook them up.

Mechanical stuff on the other hand, I feel you. Seems like every other swap has some little issue that nobody has documented.

 

[Camar068]

yeh that's where I'm getting most of my info. I've got a pink wire on the trans plug I have no idea where it goes (pin N on the round connector....it's pink). He doesn't have pin-outs and explanations for that plug. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate all the detail he's put into it.

Another thing is cooling fan relays. You've got the cheap ones then you have the expensive ones. LOL then you have people that have issues with LS swap manufacturers relays. Good luck pulling numbers off the OEM's relays and finding out what amperage they are.

Now I'm reading about varistors to help protect the relays and fans. Maybe this is why folks have issues with the 30/40 amp relays? Dunno. When my fan get's here I'm gonna slap a scope on it and look for spikes at the relay control and output. If they are there I'll pick up a few varistors and see if that eliminates the spikes. They are only a few bucks so it's not like it's gonna break the bank.

OK....off my soap box and back to soldering wires together on the harness.

 

[Camar068]

grrr...my fault on pin N. It runs to the PCM green 63....not touched. I swear I thought it was disconnected and loose LOL.

 

[Old Painless]

I think he missed a 12v trans wire that you'll need to hook up otherwise it'll be in limp mode - I used the factory fuse box and can give you a correct pinout if you'd like. There's a ton of unused connections that can be REALLY helpful like for fuel pump and the like.

Fans were a bit of a hassle but I just kept upping fuse rating til they stopped blowing. That fan setup on lt1swap is kind of overkill like his obd2 wiring.

 

[Camar068]

After identifying Pin N, I'm down to 1 pink on the round connector and 2 pink on the neutral safety switch. Think I'll put all 3 on one fuse at the fuse block.

I bought the fuse block below. The black cover, that all the fuses go into, comes off. I took the cover off and split the main bar so that I could have fused Battery and fused ignition ckts. I'll need to add a lug at the other end. The plan is to leave a few fuses left so I can run the headlight harness through it....lol depending where the box ends up. We'll see. The terminal strip at the end is independent of the fuse box.

You must be registered for see images

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/FB90/N1177.oap?ck=Search_bwd+fuse+block_5013042_928&keyword=bwd+fuse+block

 

[Old Painless]

Looks like a solid unit. I keep tapping into the factory block but it's a hassle now that almost everything is loomed up.

Never hurts to have room for expansion! My brother surprised me with a wb o2 sensor for xmas and I still have yet to clean up that jumble.

Luckily I never have to pop the hood to look at this mess so it's technically not even there, right?

 

[Camar068]

Well some of my headaches with wiring have been solved. Partly me being blind and/or asking the right folks and google.

Anyway, i figured out the connector below is the GBCM connector. GBCM (Generator Battery Control Module) - PCM controls when the alternator comes on/off for fuel efficiancy. This can easily be identified by the 2 red/white wires that go to C2-D5....and the grey/brown wire going to the alternator. This connector is not needed. On LT1swap's chart, you take the grey and brown wire and go directly to the PCM. It is highlighted in green.

I was going about it the wrong way. I was trying to find out what the 2 red/white wires were for. Next step was to check other wires....bam thats the alternator connector. Don't you hate it when you give yourself a headache for no reason!

After reading up on coil relays and protection for them, I noticed the fan relay box that came with the engine/harness. The relays have a resistor across the coil, so it appears the manufacturer built those into the relay. It may be a varistor (decreases resistance as voltage goes over a threshold...this would be better than a resistor). The box is built and the relays work, why not use it.

Now I need to find pigtails for the 98 Windstar fan. I can find a 3 pin for $17, but can't find the 2 pin for the other fan. I'll be damned if I'm gonna pay $30 for 2 connectors, I'll figure something out (used or build one myself with Plasti-Pair).

Also decided to remove the Neutral safety switch/wiring and use whats on the vehicle. Thanks to Doug and Foamy for their help on this one. Why double up on ckt's when one will do....less to go wrong during install or later down the road.

 

[Camar068]

2006 silverado cooling fan relay box schematic, top/bottom layout, and pins link. I also saved them in my 5.3 album in case that link ever goes down.

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/151v1-chevy-silverado-2006-radiator-fans.html

 

[Camar068]

I use this stuff for all my brake, fuel and tranny cooling lines, easiest stuff to work with, flares real easy and you can bend it by hand, great for minor tweaking when you don't get the bends dead nuts..

http://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/poly-armour/

Thanks for tossing up that link, Autozone had it cheaper than I could find anywhere online....was around $25 if I remember correctly.

 

[gmachinz]

One issue with some of the LS swap harnesses is they group all of the injector pinks (switched 12V) leads off one relay. I prefer to seperate the banks so instead of one relay trying to run all 8, I'd have 2 relays powering four injectors each. Better be sure your underhood wiring is j1128 rated too if building your own harness-LS swaps more than anything else are sensitive to resistance changes and heat plays a factor in that-cheaper LS kits try to skimp on wiring quality-nothing more frustrating than a complete re-wire after 10-15K miles because of improperly rated underhood wiring.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Thanks for tossing up that link, Autozone had it cheaper than I could find anywhere online....was around $25 if I remember correctly.

You're welcome, I usually get it from the Zone too but looks like it's gone up a tad, been a while but last time I got a roll it was just under $24 with the tax, $25 is still a good deal though..

 

[Camar068]

Measured current flow on the fan. It's a 98 windstar fan made by TYC (part # 620270).

-small fan = (start spike/running) 29/7 amps
-large fan = (start spike/running) 34/15 amps

Last week I compared relays looking for voltage spikes when power was removed. I compared the 35 amp relays, out of a 2006 w/ built in varistors and the cheapo's from amazon (5 for ~$10).

The cheapo's did have a larger spike....but not as large as I expected. They had a ~8v spike. The 2006 relays cut it down to about a 2v spike. It didn't spike every time, I had to be quick hitting the freeze button on the o-scope to catch it.