85' K10 wont start

[BeerThurdy]

Okay, new to the forum, not sure if this is the place to post this problem but please let me know.

First, a little about the beast, 85' K10 4x4, rebuilt 350 with less than 200 miles on it, Edlebrock 1406 carb machined to match stock 350 intake, overhauled TH350 with less than 5k miles, stock gears (3.73 I think,) new Factory Muscle 346s Comp Cam camshaft, new Accel HEI vacuum advanced dizzy - PN/59107, new alternator, starter, Duralast Gold battery x2, NGK IX Iridium plugs, MSD 8 plug wires, hoses, vacuum lines, removed the electronic spark control computer from under the dash and wired dizzy directly into MSD 6AL ignition box, removed most unused vacuum lines and wiring. Other little mods and changes. Timing set at stock specs - 4 deg BTDC, idle at 1k.

Now that the formalities are out of the way.. Here is my problem: the fuel level gauge is broke so i have to pay close attention to how much fuel is in either tank. Well the truck died on me once (ran out of fuel in one tank,) switched to the other tank, and drove off into the sunset. Filled up the next day and everything was fine. Started it up the following morning, drive about 1 mile and truck started acting like it was out of fuel (pressing pedal would cause engine to retard not advance,) it slowly came to a stop and engine cut out. I tried to start it again, and nothing. turning the key doesn't even turn over the starter. alternator is brand new as well as both batteries. Tested batts, both read 13 volts.

What would cause the truck to DIE while running, and then not allow it to start back up again if the charging and ignition system both have all new components...? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[chengny]

Just some basic preliminaries:

Check the condition of the positive battery cable. Don't go by outside appearance. The copper conductor can fail while the insulation still looks great. Check the connections at the battery and the starter solenoid for tightness.

Same with the main ground wire - check for tightness at negative post and at engine ground connection.

If the cables check out okay, test the starter control circuit. While someone turns the key to the "START" position, put your volt meter on the purple wire that connects to the "S" terminal on the solenoid. You should see 12VDC.

Check for continuity across your fusible links - 2 down by the starter and one just off the firewall junction block. Be sure all the starter connections and the JB connection are tight.

 

[BeerThurdy]

Just some basic preliminaries:

Check the condition of the positive battery cable. Don't go by outside appearance. The copper conductor can fail while the insulation still looks great. Check the connections at the battery and the starter solenoid for tightness.

Same with the main ground wire - check for tightness at negative post and at engine ground connection.

If the cables check out okay, test the starter control circuit. While someone turns the key to the "START" position, put your volt meter on the purple wire that connects to the "S" terminal on the solenoid. You should see 12VDC.

Check for continuity across your fusible links - 2 down by the starter and one just off the firewall junction block. Be sure all the starter connections and the JB connection are tight.

Done and done. all connections and wires are new, 12v where theres supposed to be, starter is brand new. removed it, and tested it, tests fine. same with alt.

 

[chengny]

12v where theres supposed to be,

If you:

1. See 12 volts at the solenoid "S" terminal when the key is in the "START" position

2. Have a "known good" cable supplying full battery power to the "B" terminal

3. Know for certain that the starter/solenoid is good

4. Have checked the main grounding cable from the battery negative to the engine

IDK...there is nothing else I can think of that would prevent the starter motor from cranking.

Maybe someone else has an idea.

 

[BeerThurdy]

I'm going to check everything again but all cables and wires are brand new. 2 GA ground, 2 GA power to starter, batt grounded to alternator bracket, and frame. Also grounded from back of eng and firewall w/ new grounding strap. wires from alt to starter new... this is very troublesome lol..

If I just woke up one day and had trouble starting it, I would consider replacing some of the worn out components, but I already replaced everything so I'm at a loss here..

 

[GTME94]

This won't be part of the no crank problem but once you get that sorted out you might have clogged the fuel filter when the tank ran dry. That's if you switched back to that tank after filling it.

 

[BeerThurdy]

just an update, the starter solenoid had an short in it and burned out the wire to the ignition switch. I kept missing it because after smashing the starter with a hammer it would work fine until the actuator finally seized up. Hooking the ignition wire to the battery and testing the other end only gave me around 5v, so it was definitely burnt out. Going to install yet another new starter, and rewire the switch in the morning. Hopefully this does it. Thanks for your help.

@GTME94 Wouldn't doubt the tank being filled with crap, I have never cleaned it and I'm pretty sure the previous owner didn't either. Got a new float for one of the tanks so I'm going to check that out too. Thanks for your input.