'79 Camaro Restomod

[bucket]

I was able to use poly insert from second gen mounts with some trimming inside 3rd gen clam shells. And the 85 square I had use same size as a thirdgen. Not really sure on the reasoning behind those changes

I refer to the engine side brackets as the clamshells. My poly mounts were bought years ago for an '86 Z28. It's interesting, the box says they fit 2nd and 3rd gen. I guess I'll see if they need shaved when it goes together.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Roadkill had a neat tip for motor mounts. They said get a caulking tube of "windshield adhesive" and inject it into the voids in your stock motor mounts. It sets up stiffer than silicone, and stiffer than the rubber the mounts are made of, and keeps them from tearing apart under load making them much stronger.

 

[yevgenievich]

Same on clamshell reference, but I was wrong on the difference. It was 2nd gen vs ls 4th gen that I had to trim, while ls inserts fit the stock square body. 3rd gen must be same as 2nd then.

I refer to the engine side brackets as the clamshells. My poly mounts were bought years ago for an '86 Z28. It's interesting, the box says they fit 2nd and 3rd gen. I guess I'll see if they need shaved when it goes together.

 

[Swims350]

Roadkill had a neat tip for motor mounts. They said get a caulking tube of "windshield adhesive" and inject it into the voids in your stock motor mounts. It sets up stiffer than silicone, and stiffer than the rubber the mounts are made of, and keeps them from tearing apart under load making them much stronger.

I already beat ya to it LOL. back on the last page I guess, don't see it here

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Roadkill had a neat tip for motor mounts. They said get a caulking tube of "windshield adhesive" and inject it into the voids in your stock motor mounts. It sets up stiffer than silicone, and stiffer than the rubber the mounts are made of, and keeps them from tearing apart under load making them much stronger.

You could scout out some of those GM installed engine mount fail safe cables that were installed on the passenger side of the engine. My 67 Impala with a 327 had them. I wanted you to pull it before I sold it but never did.

 

[crazy4offroad]

I cut 2 6" pieces of chain that can do the same thing. Passenger side for drive, driver side for reverse!

 

[bucket]

You could scout out some of those GM installed engine mount fail safe cables that were installed on the passenger side of the engine. My 67 Impala with a 327 had them. I wanted you to pull it before I sold it but never did.

My '69 has those cables installed on it. The second owner told me the dealer put them on in the early 70's after he broke a mount leaving K-mart. I don't know why they didn't put interlocking mounts on it at that point, because one broke on me too. I put interlocking mounts on it then.

My old S10 had similar style engine mounts and I broke one of those too. Cable throttle so not really a safety issue. But it made it hard to nail the 2-3 shift and it would always yank the vavuum hose off the brake booster after doing a good burnout. But anyway, I just copied my Impala for that issue. A tailgate cable did a good job of tethering the engine to the upper control arm.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

My '69 has those cables installed on it. The second owner told me the dealer put them on in the early 70's after he broke a mount leaving K-mart. I don't know why they didn't put interlocking mounts on it at that point, because one broke on me too. I put interlocking mounts on it then.

My old S10 had similar style engine mounts and I broke one of those too. Cable throttle so not really a safety issue. But it made it hard to nail the 2-3 shift and it would always yank the vavuum hose off the brake booster after doing a good burnout. But anyway, I just copied my Impala for that issue. A tailgate cable did a good job of tethering the engine to the upper control arm.

I always thought it was a half assed fix. I still wanted them just to have, but I didn’t take it off. I chained my Monza though as Curt described......it was manual and I beat the piss out of it. Lol

 

[bucket]

It's crude, but it does work.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

It's crude, but it does work.

Yup technology of the day..... oh wait didn’t we go to the moon and safely return in 69?.......NOT, but I guess thats a debate for another day. Lol

 

[bucket]

Got everything pulled off the crossmember today. Luckily, everything came apart fairly easy. Only had to heat one bolt. The big issue is the steering box area. The internal sleeve is completely rusted away on one lower bolt and looks weak on the other lower bolt. Both lower bolts were rusted nearly all the way through. That area will need a little work for sure.

I also pulled the front springs without a compressor. I just removed the shocks and unbolted the upper ball joints. Then smacked the knuckles with a hammer. Sounds dangerous, but it really wasn't. Those spings popped loose so gently, I could have layed my face on the control arms when doing it, lol.

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Last pic before removing the engine mounts:

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[Swims350]

nice, I still need to remove my mounts from mine that you have.

I gotta go buy some more paint to do the frame once it comes back. I really could assemble it all just need to buy some coil spring isolators to put on them new springs and then I could put all mine back together. Just make it heavier to move and take up more space LOL

 

[bucket]

I'm just going to wire wheel the thing and then coat it with the graphite paint like I originally intended. After repairs of course.

Control arms will get a quick cleaning and painting. Nothing too fancy because they will eventually get replaced with new tubular arms. The current bushings are serviceable, and all the ball joints and tierods are in surprisingly fantastic shape. Still snug like when new.

 

[Swims350]

The rubber stuff I figured was junk, but those front end parts, most likely because it sat so long not a ton of miles and abuse on em.

 

[Old77]

so....is this done yet?