700r4 getting hot.

[74 Shortbed]

That is what I was thinking should happen. So I got it up to 70 and from 50 (my 3-4 shift) to 70 I did not feel another shift or notice another rpm change. I'm thinking its a safe assumption that its not locking up.

Maybe it's locking up as it shifts into 4th??, my Burb does the same thing and I was wondering about that, I have the one in my Nova hooked up to a toggle switch only, and at 75mph unlocked I'm turning just over 2100r's, I flip the switch and the tach drops to 1900 and you can feel and here it just like it was going into another gear, and with the engine off I can flip the switch and here the solenoid click..

 

[Dutch Rutter]

That very well could be. I was actually just reading over that thread on here. Maybe I should just wire it up to a toggle or push button. It would be nice to be able to keep it from locking up at times. I'll be digging into it this week as I can after work. The electrical connections on the trans, I have two wires as shown in the picture. Any idea which one would be the ground and which should have power? Should be easy enough to grab the power from my e fan button and instead run it to that one for a quick test setup. From what I've read putting power to that and listening for that click should tell me if the solenoid in the trans itself is working or not, right? Thinking I need more beers to get this figured out.

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[/QUOTE]

 

[Dougnsalem]

From what I've read putting power to that and listening for that click should tell me if the solenoid in the trans itself is working or not, right? Thinking I need more beers to get this figured out.

Bring the beer over, and I'll help you figure it out.... Lol

 

[yevgenievich]

Need power and ground connected. Power is constant, ground is switched

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Bring the beer over, and I'll help you figure it out.... Lol

Careful now I may take you up on that.

Need power and ground connected. Power is constant, ground is switched

Gotcha, so it does not matter which is which? I probably should trace those wires test and find where they go before I just cut them and run new ones.

 

[yevgenievich]

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Careful now I may take you up on that.



Gotcha, so it does not matter which is which? I probably should trace those wires test and find where they go before I just cut them and run new ones.

 

[Dougnsalem]

Careful now I may take you up on that.

Lol. Not a problem if you do...

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Nice basic diagram. Ground pin F on the ALDL, and it should lock up...

 

[yevgenievich]

If it is early 700r4 it will have a vacuum switch for tcc control, but trans side of wiring and brake switch should be same

 

[4WDKC]

That very well could be. I was actually just reading over that thread on here. Maybe I should just wire it up to a toggle or push button. It would be nice to be able to keep it from locking up at times. I'll be digging into it this week as I can after work. The electrical connections on the trans, I have two wires as shown in the picture. Any idea which one would be the ground and which should have power? Should be easy enough to grab the power from my e fan button and instead run it to that one for a quick test setup. From what I've read putting power to that and listening for that click should tell me if the solenoid in the trans itself is working or not, right? Thinking I need more beers to get this figured out.

You must be registered for see images attach

[/QUOTE]


There is a way int the transmission itself to prevent lock up in 3rd, the down side is lower mileage. Unlocking it in OD for extended periods is not recommended as you will burn up the tranny. I wont use OD with a 700 that wont be locked up.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

If it is early 700r4 it will have a vacuum switch for tcc control, but trans side of wiring and brake switch should be same

Ok so just to make sure I am understanding this. the power from the ign. is brought though a normally closed circuit which is tied into the bake circuit somehow. (therefore allowing power to pass under ign. on and no brake applied, but will break power when the brake pedal is pressed)

Then the ground is supplied from the ECM or Vacuum switch (depending on age).

So I can get under there with my tester, ign. on, probe those two wires, Verify one is getting power, then I could cut the other and run it to a grounded switch underneath my dash to bypass the ECM or vacuum switch all together. (this is assuming the valve in the transmission is infact functional)

Or I could correct/replace the broken or not working ECM (if I could find one) or vacuum switch (also assuming the valve in the transmission is functional)

If the valve in the transmission does not click when I ground the second wire then chances are it needs replaced or investigated.

side note: Drove it into work this morning and it did alright for normal driving, only got to the half way point on my gauge so I believe it to be 180 it was also only 34 outside this morning so I really need to get this torque converter locking up before it starts warming up.

Also I am wondering if there isn't something else wrong in the transmission which is adding to the heat build up. but first things first this needs to be locking up right?

 

[Dutch Rutter]

There is a way int the transmission itself to prevent lock up in 3rd, the down side is lower mileage. Unlocking it in OD for extended periods is not recommended as you will burn up the tranny. I wont use OD with a 700 that wont be locked up.[/QUOTE]

Yep, and thats what I think is what has been causing this transmission to get as hot as it has been. I would not be surprised if the PO of this truck disabled/bypassed or straight up broke something that would cause it to not lockup at all. I have found some really good yet older work done and then I've found shoty, newer, ghetto work done to the poor truck. I've been trying to weed my way through it by biggest priority to smallest but I never felt until now that the transmission was not functioning like it should, even though I should have as it runs about the same on the highway as my other square with a th400 and 4:10s in the rear with 31"s

 

[4WDKC]

Ok so just to make sure I am understanding this. the power from the ign. is brought though a normally closed circuit which is tied into the bake circuit somehow. (therefore allowing power to pass under ign. on and no brake applied, but will break power when the brake pedal is pressed)

Then the ground is supplied from the ECM or Vacuum switch (depending on age).

So I can get under there with my tester, ign. on, probe those two wires, Verify one is getting power, then I could cut the other and run it to a grounded switch underneath my dash to bypass the ECM or vacuum switch all together. (this is assuming the valve in the transmission is infact functional)

Or I could correct/replace the broken or not working ECM (if I could find one) or vacuum switch (also assuming the valve in the transmission is functional)

If the valve in the transmission does not click when I ground the second wire then chances are it needs replaced or investigated.

side note: Drove it into work this morning and it did alright for normal driving, only got to the half way point on my gauge so I believe it to be 180 it was also only 34 outside this morning so I really need to get this torque converter locking up before it starts warming up.

Also I am wondering if there isn't something else wrong in the transmission which is adding to the heat build up. but first things first this needs to be locking up right?

1 yes it will work the same way as cruise control.
2 vacuum switch or ecm is better than toggle, no forgetting to flip the switch and trying to find a place to mount it that is close to you and not tacky looking.
3 yes you need lock up working.

 

[4WDKC]

There is a way int the transmission itself to prevent lock up in 3rd, the down side is lower mileage. Unlocking it in OD for extended periods is not recommended as you will burn up the tranny. I wont use OD with a 700 that wont be locked up.

Yep, and thats what I think is what has been causing this transmission to get as hot as it has been. I would not be surprised if the PO of this truck disabled/bypassed or straight up broke something that would cause it to not lockup at all. I have found some really good yet older work done and then I've found shoty, newer, ghetto work done to the poor truck. I've been trying to weed my way through it by biggest priority to smallest but I never felt until now that the transmission was not functioning like it should, even though I should have as it runs about the same on the highway as my other square with a th400 and 4:10s in the rear with 31"s[/QUOTE]


it may not be bad or schotty work, my stage 3 700r4 from bowtie overdrives will not lock in 3rd, been that way since it was bought. It keeps you from over powering the clutches and burning them up in high hp or high load scenarios like towing.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

@4WDKC I could hope Its a nicer and built up trans. But my luck lately its probably something someone got from a junk yard many moons ago and slapped it in there halfway without getting the necessary parts to make it work right. Thinking about it a bit. I do remember there being a metal case over my driver side valve cover that has a bunch or wires going to it (think its zip tied to my window wash fluid line) would this be the ECM? I don't recall seeing a vacuum switch but I could have easily missed it.

If the TCC control switch be it ECM or vacuum is faulty can these parts still be purchased new? I don't think a junk yard part would be ideal for something like this.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

I found this on Summit after a quick search. So now I'm hoping for a vacuum controlled unit and not the ECM type.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...VH4b6QzaNxkB50ozYi3LdZJCFiPUTSRBoCeTEQAvD_BwE