I have gotten burned on this a couple times over the years. I have had the old school glass fuses look great, but have the very end of the filiment (hidden under the end cap) be broken. Same with the ato blade style fuses. Anymore, I don't consider a fuse to be known good, unless I check it with a test light. Even a cheap ass Harbor Freight tester, works great. Sounds like you're getting a handle on it- this was just for anyone else that stumbles on this....
This would have been a great way to test them out! What I ended up doing was taking the fuse out, I clipped part of my tester to one side of the fuse's spade then put the other side of the fuse to my positive battery terminal and the tester point to the negative. Worked pretty well, even found a bad RDO fuse but I think that is for the OEM radio. Replaced it anyway.
Splicing is probably best option unless it also goes to the diagnostic connector(if one existed in 82). And then apply ground using a toggle switch while driving, or you might hear it from under the pan
This is what I think I am going to be doing. Would there be a point in which I will want to be able to turn off overdrive in 4th gear? Like pulling a trailer up a hill. Basically would it be beneficial to be able to turn it unlock the torque converter at will from the cab, or would that more of a trouble then benefit?
I didn't want to read all 8 pages, so I'm cheating a bit and might be repeating something already said, so forgive me ahead of time if I do.
So I noticed you mentioned, you installed the gauge, THEN notice the temp. So for this gauge you don't have a "normal" as of yet right??? Is it safe to assume that this is an electric gauge and not a manual gauge? First things first for me, I'd want to make sure the gauge is accurate. Are you 100% certain that you have the correct sender for this gauge? Does the gauge stay at this spot all the time for now?
Hey HotRod, I don't blame you 8 pages is quite a bit so I'll summarize a little bit. Been driving the truck since I bought it about a 1.5 years ago. Have had no indication of a trans issue except for a small pan leak. Well that and I've always thought 4th gear was my Torque converter locking up. Now I know better. two week or so ago I want to address the trans pan leak, replaced Pan with a steel OEM depth, gasket with a nice dry install type, and the filter. Topped off the fluid and drove it for about a week. I noticed it seemed to have less power then before the work. Checked the fluid found it to be a dark maroon. Which it was not even that dark before the trans work. Figured I needed to finally install my temp gauge to see what was going on. I verified the gauges and sending unit to be accurate, by boiling the sending unit with the gauges hooked up to a bench battery. I also used a cooking thermometer to also verify the water temp. Once I got the gauge installed I found the trans was getting very hot (the picture of the gauge near 250) I replaced the filter and fluid again, and hooked up both my add on cooler, and radiator cooler doing this the temp is more manageable. The test drive I did, which showed 250 before now only shows 170. Which is good but for being 45 outside I think is might overheat in the summer. While troubleshooting everything I believe to have discovered my torque converter has not been locking up since purchase. Basically I've been driving it like a 4 speed auto with no lockup.
To answer your questions, No I'm still learning where the gauge should be sitting, I do not really know what the normal operating temp for one of these transmissions should be. It is an electronic gauge, I am currently using the OEM water gauge since I like the cleaner look, but I also have the gauge which came with the sender and it reads the same as the OEM. Nope, neither gauge hangs in any spot they both start zeroed them climb as I drive. They do also fall a bit down if I stop and crank the E-fan on the cooler. So I believe the gauges to be accurate and functioning properly.
Funny thing, this morning coming into work. I tried driving it like normal in D on the freeway and at 65 mph I was seeing 2100 RPM, 70 only 2200 RPM but I did not feel another shift or anything. It did drive as I would expect it to if the converter was locked. Kind of lugging unless the throttle was opened up and the trans downshifted, very well seems like its locking when shifting into 4th like 74 shortbed said, just wish I could verify this. Also I read somewhere that if driving with the Converter locked you should be able to press the brake pedal (unlocking the Converter) and you will see a small increase in RPM. I tried that and no increase. Also the temp was great, Max I saw was 140 and this morning it was about 40 outside. So I'm officially at a loss.
