496 Build

[Irezel]

Im wanting to make 496 built more for low end torque and run on pump gas. It would be used in a 81-91 Suburban 4x4(One of my fav vehicles). I have never built an engine before, but I have been around cars all my life as my dad is a mechanic. I think I listed everything I would need and think it is also all compatible. But I would like if some experienced people could read over it and just make sure im not missing anything and that it won't blow up . It might take a while to save up for it though as its almost 10k as it is now. Also wondering what a good trans to put behind it would be. Haven't desided if I want Auto or Manual yet but would like to hear options. And if you can, i'd like to hear some HP/Torque estimations and at what RPM. Thanks

Looking to make mid 9 to 1 compression ratio and if I did the math right, it would be 9.53 to 1. I would like if someone else that knows what they're doing to double check. Bore: 4.31 Inch, Stroke: 4.25 Inch, Head Volume: 118cc, Piston Volume: -18cc, Gasket Thickness: 0.08 Inch, Rod Length: 6.385, Deck Height: 9.8 Inch Milled down 0.02(9.78 Inch) Inch to make the deck clearance 0(I believe).

*Updated*
-Engine Block - Part Number: Chevrolet Performance 19170538
Deck Height: 9.8(Milled down 0.02 to achieve 0 deck clearance)
Bore: 4.250(Bored to 4.310)
1-piece Rear Main Seal
4 Bolt Main(Not spayed)
Cam bearing included
Freeze plugs included

-Crankshaft - Part Number: SCAT Engine Components 4-454-4250-6385-L
Rear Main Seal Style: 1-piece
Stroke: 4.250 Inch
Material: Forged 4340 steel

-Main Bearings - Part Number: Clevite Engine Parts MS829H
Grooved Bearing: Yes
Groove Location: Upper
Groove Style: 1/2
Material: Tri-metal, TM-77

-Pistons - Part Number: Sportsman Racing Products 142980-8
Bore: 4.310
Type: Flat top, with single valve relief
Material: Forged Aluminum
Compression Distance: 1.270
Piston Volume: +3.00cc

-Piston Rings - Part Number: JE Pistons S100S8-43105

-Connecting Rods - Part Number: SCAT Engine Components 2-454-6385-2200
Length: 6.385 Inch
Style: H-beam
Material: Forged 4340 steel
Wrist Pin Style: Floating

-Rod Bearings - Part Number: Clevite Engine Parts CB-743HNK
Material: Tri-metal, TM-77

-Camshaft - Part Number: COMP Cams 11-413-8
Type: Hydraulic roller tappet
Duration at 050: 212in/218ex
Advertised Duration: 264in/270ex
Valve Lift: 0.510in/0.510ex
Lobe Separation: 110

-Timing Chain And Gear Set - Part Number: COMP Cams 2110
Type: Double roller
Max adv at Cam: 2 degree
Max adv at Crank: 4 degree

-Oil Pump - Part Number: Melling M77
Type: Wet sump

-Oil Pump Pickup - Part Number: Summit Racing SUM-G3622
Oil Pan Depth: 8 Inch

-Oil Pump Driveshaft - Part Number: IS-77

-Oil Pan - Part Number: Summit Racing SUM-G3606
Rear Main Seal: 1-piece
Max Stroke: 4.250
Rear sump: wet
Depth: 8 Inch

-Gasket Set - Part Number: Fel-Pro CS8523
Included gaskets: Oil Pan Gasket, Rear Main Seal, Water Pump Gasket, Timing Cover Seal,
Water Neck Gasket, Fuel Pump Gasket, Distributor Gasket.

-Head Gaskets - Part Number: SCE Gaskets P14324
Bore: 4.320
Material: Copper
Thickness: 0.043 Inch

-Pushrods - Part Number: Lunati 8200-16
Ball Tip(Top and Bottom)
Diameter: 3/8
Length: 8.275 In, 9.250 Ex

-Rocker Arms - Part Number: COMP Cams 1411-16
Ratio: 1.72
Type: Roller tip

-Lifters - Part Number: Lunati 72331-16
Type: Hydraulic Roller
Includes Link Bars
Outside Diameter: 0.842

-Cylinder Heads - Part Number: Stock cast #336781
Material: Cast Iron
Chamber Volume: 113cc

-Head Bolt Kit - Part Number: ARP 135-3601

-Spark Plugs - Part Number: Autolite 3924

-Water Pump - Part Number: Summit Racing SUM-312461
Flow: High-Volume
Material: Iron
Rotation: Clockwise
Pilot Diameter: 0.625

-Intake Manifold - Part Number: EdelBrock 7561
Type: Dual Plane
Material: Aluminum
Single Carb

-Water Neck - Part Number: Spectre Performance 42313

-Distributor - Part Number: Summit Racing SUM-850050
Trigger Style: Magnetic
Advance Type: Mechanical
Cap Style: Male/HEI

-Spark Plug Wires - Part Number: MSD Ignition 31803

-Carburetor - Part Number: EdelBrock 1812
CFM: 800
Choke: Manual
Barrels: 4

-Carburetor Mount Stud Kit - Part Number: Spectre Performance 42513

-Engine Bolt Kit - Part Number: Professional Products 53130
Includes: Intake Manifold Fasteners, Valve Cover Fasteners, Timing Cover Fasteners,
Oil Pan Fasteners, Header Fasteners, Water Pump Fasteners, Fuel Pump Fasteners,
Water Neck Fasteners, Distributor Clamp Bolt Fastener

-Oil Filter - Part Number: ACDelco 25324052

-Valve Covers - Part Number: EdelBrock 4683
Height: Tall
Material: Steel

-Valve Cover Gaskets - Part Number: Mr. Gasket 586G
Material: Cork/ Rubber with steel core
Thickness: 0.188

-Timing Cover - Part Number: Milodon 14875
Type: 1-piece
Material: Aluminum
Fits stock and double roller timing chains

-Timing Cover Gaskets - Part Number: Fel-Pro TCS45053
Material: Fiber

-Air Cleaner - Part Number: Edepbrock 1223
Type: Round
Size: 14 Inch Diameter, 3 Inch Height
Top/Base Material: Steel
Filter Material: White Paper

-Valve Cover Breathers - Part Number: Spectre Performance 4277

 

[OkieFishMan]

I would go a bit bigger on the cam. That 496 is a lot of cubes to feed, and it will take a bit more cam to do it.

Something like Comp part 11-413-8
212 int and 218 exh duration @ .050
.510 lift on both intake and exhaust

I would also skip the aluminum heads and run a nice set of full size oval ports (not peanut heads). This is not going to be a high rpm motor so you don't need tons of flow. I bet this motor would rarely see over 4500 or so. This would cut some cost out.

I'd also try to bring your compression down to around 9:1 if you do switch to cast iron heads.

I'm fixing to build a 496 myself for my rig, and I'm going to do something very similar.

Using what I listed above, I bet you would see 350hp and 475tq conservatively.

 

[gpmorgan]

Before I spent that much for parts, I would look at a crate engine unless you just want to build it yourself. Also get a warranty.

 

[OkieFishMan]

I'd run a stock HEI distributor too. You could probably find one thats been rebuilt and blueprinted much cheaper than the MSD unit.

Intake manifold I'm not sure. I can't decide whether to run an air gap performer rpm or just a performer for my own build. My gut tells me to run the air gap, as with 496 cubes this thing needs to eat.

You could also probably reuse the stock oil pan. My stock oil pan holds six quarts, giving me 7 quart capacity with filter. I plan to just clean it and paint it. Thatd save you another $200+

If you post your compression height of the piston you plan to use, we can figure your compression with various heads.

 

[OkieFishMan]

Last thing, unless your 100% sure on doing this yourself, I would find a reputable engine builder to have build it.

I'm not a fan of cookie cutter crate engines. I have always either built them myself or had an engine builder build exactly what I want. It's really no more expensive than the crate motors, but you know exactly what went in and the person who built it.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Use Scat rotating assembly, 781 heads with the big valves and a clean up, unless weight is an issue..

 

[OkieFishMan]

Use Scat rotating assembly, 781 heads with the big valves and a clean up, unless weight is an issue..

I'll take Scat over Eagle any day too.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Use Scat rotating assembly, 781 heads with the big valves and a clean up, unless weight is an issue..

This, agreed, keep it simple, keep it affordable. Really no benefit to alloy heads in this application, they are expensive here, and the weight savings is moot.

The intake choice is good, cam is a little mild, although anything is bigger than the 496 I daily drive lol.

 

[gpmorgan]

Last thing, unless your 100% sure on doing this yourself, I would find a reputable engine builder to have build it.

I'm not a fan of cookie cutter crate engines. I have always either built them myself or had an engine builder build exactly what I want. It's really no more expensive than the crate motors, but you know exactly what went in and the person who built it.

I've always done my work myself. Machine shops around here are a hassle to get work done, plus trusting their work. There is only one that I trust and he stays backed up year round. It's also hard to get him to touch anything with less than 1000 hp, so my latest engine is a Blueprint pro series crate. I installed it 8 months ago and am very pleased with it.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Eagle is crap. Till you get done having it machined true it will be weak go with scat or if yo go with iron gears use the money saved from not buying aluminum heads and get a Callies.

 

[shiftpro]

Welcome to the site Brandon, you're getting lots of good advice here.

Here's mine...
Keep you aye peeled on Craiglist and Ebay. There's always a poor soul (recently married? Got a woman knocked up) who is abandoning
a project and must sell his collected parts. Stroker kits for sake all the time. Save BIIIG! Big smile... 496 BIIIGGER smile.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Welcome to the site Brandon, you're getting lots of good advice here.

Here's mine...
Keep you aye peeled on Craiglist and Ebay. There's always a poor soul (recently married? Got a woman knocked up) who is abandoning
a project and must sell his collected parts. Stroker kits for sake all the time. Save BIIIG! Big smile... 496 BIIIGGER smile.

540 is a bigger smile lol

 

[Irezel]

Wow, thanks for all the replies! I would prefer to build the engine myself instead of buying a crate engine or having
someone else build it. I enjoy building stuff myself, Its more fun that way. I would have my father assist when I
built it just to make sure I do it right.

Since this is a completely new build and not a rebuild, I have no stock parts. But when it comes time to buy stuff, I
will surf ebay and craigslist to try get cheaper parts.

SCAT had no rotating assembly kit that was 1-piece rear main(Like the new block) so I had to pick out each part. The crank
and rods are SCAT. And weight is not a issue at all.

If I buy 781 heads, should I buy new seals and springs for it? And if so, what should I get?

Compression Height is 1.270
The 781 are 113cc I believe

--Changed Parts--

-Crankshaft - Part Number: SCAT Engine Components 4-454-4250-6385-L
Rear Main Seal Style: 1-piece
Stroke: 4.250 Inch
Material: Forged 4340 steel

-Main Bearings - Part Number: Clevite Engine Parts MS829H
Grooved Bearing: Yes
Groove Location: Upper
Groove Style: 1/2
Material: Tri-metal, TM-77

-Pistons and Rings - Part Number: ICON Performance Pistons IC9952KTM060
Bore: 4.310
Type: Dome, single valve relief
Material: Forged Aluminum
Compression Distance: 1.270
Piston Volume: -23.00cc

-Connecting Rods - Part Number: SCAT Engine Components 2-454-6385-2200
Length: 6.385 Inch
Style: H-beam
Material: Forged 4340 steel
Wrist Pin Style: Floating

-Rod Bearings - Part Number: Clevite Engine Parts CB-743HNK
Material: Tri-metal, TM-77

-Camshaft - Part Number: COMP Cams 11-413-8
Type: Hydraulic roller tappet
Duration at 050: 212in/218ex
Advertised Duration: 264in/270ex
Valve Lift: 0.510in/0.510ex
Lobe Separation: 110

-Cylinder Heads - Part Number: Stock cast #336781
Material: Cast Iron
Chamber Volume: 113cc

-Distributor - Part Number: Summit Racing SUM-850050
Trigger Style: Magnetic
Advance Type: Mechanical
Cap Style: Male/HEI

 

[shiftpro]

540 is a bigger smile lol

Yes I can imagine... I have yet to feel it torque so I don't know what I'm missing...
Lots of tall blocks around here so in time...

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Yes I can imagine... I have yet to feel it torque so I don't know what I'm missing...
Lots of tall blocks around here so in time...

I have one sitting in the corner resting for the time being lol not a 540 but a tall deck 427. I'm kinda thinking the bore spacing on this isn't gonna work out tho. I when it gets build it will be as big as it can be structurally sound.