406 stroker?

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Green79Scottsdale

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Go talk to the engine builder of choice. Have them recommend and/or purchase a rotating assembly for you. You can get fully matched, balanced, bottom end kits. The shop should align hone the mains, finish the over bore with a torque plate, mill the deck to height after doing the math with the rod/piston/head combo you choose to achieve the desired comp. ratio, and check for proper clearances. After all this is done, you can put the top end on it, or have them do it. I would expect machining costs to run $1000+, and I think the 383 kits also run about $1000, probably more if you go forged crank and rods, which I would highly recommend if I understand you intentions correctly.

Hope this helps!
 

Jackedup86

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I'm not as much of an expert as these guys, but i dont think a th 350 is gonna like how much hp you're gonna be throwing at it. im assuming a shift kit if its going to the strip, but still. they arent the most resiliant transmissions. if i was gonna build a saturday night truck, id go sm465 all day. nothing like shifting the hell out of it, but it will be screaming at 65 mph with those gears
 

HotRodPC

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I'm not as much of an expert as these guys, but i dont think a th 350 is gonna like how much hp you're gonna be throwing at it. im assuming a shift kit if its going to the strip, but still. they arent the most resiliant transmissions. if i was gonna build a saturday night truck, id go sm465 all day. nothing like shifting the hell out of it, but it will be screaming at 65 mph with those gears

I'd disagree. SM465 isn't a speed shifting transmission and not for racing at all. It'll hold up, but you'd lose a full second in shifting gears. And Th350's can be made durable for cheap. Hardened input shaft, and hardened outter intermediate race and rock with it. If need a bit more stouter than that, then you can with the upgraded sprag drum and hardened race and get down with the program for sure.
 

crazy4offroad

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From all I've read, the single weakest part in a TH350 is the intermediate sprag race, but even it is rated to a max of 600 HP. Like HR said, hardened input, hardened intermediate race, Alto Red clutches throughout, Kolene steels throughout, if you need more upgrade to the 32 element roller clutch, and I think you can upgrade the sun shell too, and be ready to run with the 1,000+ HP big boys. And if anyone knows how you can lose 1-2 seconds trying to shift an SM465 that'd be me lol.
 

HotRodPC

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BTW, that's the only downfall to an SM465 it's not a race trans. Brute ass strength, but the ratios are wide and they just can't be shifted fast.
You're pretty much on target with Th350 upgrades. Running up to 800-1000hp is certainly possible. A Th400 1200+.
 

Green79Scottsdale

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TH350 supposedly has less parasitic horsepower loss over the TH400 anyway. Manual is not what you want for a go fast straight line truck. Automatics are more consistent, and you aren't going to miss a shift.
 

HotRodPC

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TH350 supposedly has less parasitic horsepower loss over the TH400 anyway. Manual is not what you want for a go fast straight line truck. Automatics are more consistent, and you aren't going to miss a shift.

True, I've said a million times. Th350 has 3 advantages over the Th400, and the only advantage a 400 has is brute strength. If you can modify a Th350 to hold up to your horsepower/torque/abuse rating, you're better off. Th350's are also much easier to find and cheaper, so you can afford to break a couple. It's not a bad idea to keep a spare core laying around.

I'll also agree A well built Auto with a good kit shift kit, proper stall converter is much more consistent. I won't claim it anymore since I'm sure my reflexes are much slower with age, but I rarely got beat on shifts in my early racing days running Muncie M21 and M22's with a Hurst Comp Plus shifter. I don't recall that I ever did. And the times I broke parts, not the trans, but rear ends, or driveshafts was when I wasn't racing but still getting on it pretty hard. More like Test and Tune and trying different shift patterns to get faster. It takes alot of practice, but still, always the chance of a goof no matter how good you are with a manual trans.
 

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excellent feedback guys! these are some of the answers i was looking for. so with all said, it sounds like a complete rolling assy is the way to go. any specific brand names? like eagle or something? glad to hear a th350 will be able to hold up. i had the tranny race ready when built at a reputable tranny shop when i had it in my vega. it performed very well, and spit out u-joints about once a month
 

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Eagle and Scat are 2 good names for rotating assemblies. Forged crank is stronger/better for higher rpms. H-beam rods are stronger than I-beam. Picking the best stuff adds up fast though.
 

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