Something seems fishy. GM loves there interferance fit ****, and that often includes things that will spontaneously fall off and grenade things(like speed sensor reluctor) but on the same trans mission, the wheel can literally and I mean LITERALLY. Be cherry red and that includes the thing it rides on. WITH A TORCH. CHERRY RED. AND IT WILL NOT COME OFF.
Sometimes it just needs a wack or the sunshell thingy ma bobber even made it into tiny pieces
for you
anyway, something about the thing looks suspicious.
Look at the machined meshing parts, take the ring and gear and mesh them on the bench. Are they evenly worn, are you getting places it wants to catch , hows the leading edge vs the.. you people that are into touching big rear ends(intentional) know what I mean. The wear you mark with paint. can you assembe the housing with gear and that special paint , turn the ...crankshaft with wheels in the air so starter? Its a little choppy way to do it.. you could pull plugs and that would help it be not choppy.. but specifically have the differential connected Because its got weight and tolerances you need to account for for this thoery to even be worth pondering. So you spin the enginee, trans, rear end. You have the speedo cable connected and that all does its normal thing, minus some weight(which im not about to tell you to bump starter with your truck moving ... thats a lot of work for your battery)
Im just wondering if the tolerances in the gear shaft hole thing (ha) are properly lined up and that the cut grooves are mating in a way that the there isnt a yanking or walking motion that wore somethign over time. Or that the resistance holds the ring on the trans still and it kinda just slowly machined itself smaller. All it takes is it to start doing that and some old lubricant in the trans that is not gl-4... some brass or bronze(yellow metals) that may be in use since the trans has them in the synchros... wouldnt you want the speedo gear to be harder than the one you can pop in and out if ones gotta be planned wear possibly? Or perhaps the fitting the one spins in?
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im not always on the money but the stuff i bring up are just thoughts of what could or maybe there is a bronze sleeve like I think some newer trans use that crushes when you smush the gear on over it, and then it stays in fixed spot where it goes? and then the little driven one has some tolerances to accept end plays or run outs... idk. Im not a power transmissions expert but I know that things, as they grow in complexity, grow in wear points and wear points can be exacerbated by factors or initial work quality/build quality and repairs. Perhaps someone had a cable that got damn near impossible to spin and that was holding resistance on the parts inline as you showed us of yours
