2001 silverado project. well, its gonna be a LS1 now, 500hp N/A dreams

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Kyle Childress

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I already have a sniper efi and Holley dual sync for a crate L31-r. I’ll be installing both at the same time. They suggest starting with the fuel first then the distributor for easier troubleshooting. I don’t have another distributor that is compatible with my cam gear to do so. Since everything on my setup will be new, I shouldn’t have any vacuum or electrical gremlins to work out. You think it’s really that big of a deal, or should it be good to go?


I started everything up on my terminator including a dual sync and did a cam break in. Just take your time during your install, follow the directions to the letter I am serious lol. Make sure you set your dual sync at 50° before top dead center on the compression stroke, hit the key. Are you using a MSD 6A box or a 6AL? Let it idle for a few min, make sure fuel pressure stays at around 50psi, make sure oil pressure is good then do a cam break in. The disclaimer about getting it going on a HEI first then switching t the dual sync is for safety sake, had people install them a tooth off or something else, to much timing, detonation ensues then its the EFIs fault their new motor is junk. Also make sure your fuel pump is mounted BELOW the tank within 4 or 5 feet, this is very very important. If you don't the pump will burn up in a few hundred miles. Triple check all your wiring, make sure no plug wires are laying over harness and o2 wring has a good distance between plug wires/coil as well. Its also very important the pink wire doesn't lose voltage while cranking, or drop below 10v, what I did is i ran a bus bar and had 12v ignition ran to it and used it as a signal wire for relays, that way I have a good 12ign source and the things that need 12v get it straight from the battery through relays. Safer for your ECU that way as well, and lastly NEVER use a jump box on it once you get the sniper going, it can back feed into the ECU then pop it, had to tell many a customers that their ECU is dead once it gets here because of that.
 

Frankenchevy

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I started everything up on my terminator including a dual sync and did a cam break in. Just take your time during your install, follow the directions to the letter I am serious lol. Make sure you set your dual sync at 50° before top dead center on the compression stroke, hit the key. Are you using a MSD 6A box or a 6AL? Let it idle for a few min, make sure fuel pressure stays at around 50psi, make sure oil pressure is good then do a cam break in. The disclaimer about getting it going on a HEI first then switching t the dual sync is for safety sake, had people install them a tooth off or something else, to much timing, detonation ensues then its the EFIs fault their new motor is junk. Also make sure your fuel pump is mounted BELOW the tank within 4 or 5 feet, this is very very important. If you don't the pump will burn up in a few hundred miles. Triple check all your wiring, make sure no plug wires are laying over harness and o2 wring has a good distance between plug wires/coil as well. Its also very important the pink wire doesn't lose voltage while cranking, or drop below 10v, what I did is i ran a bus bar and had 12v ignition ran to it and used it as a signal wire for relays, that way I have a good 12ign source and the things that need 12v get it straight from the battery through relays. Safer for your ECU that way as well, and lastly NEVER use a jump box on it once you get the sniper going, it can back feed into the ECU then pop it, had to tell many a customers that their ECU is dead once it gets here because of that.

Thanks for the responses and I apologize for it turning into a derailment of your thread.
I bought an msd blaster 8207 coil. I got baffled tanks, senders and I’m using an in tank fuel pump from a vortec era 350.

My engine is a new gm vortec with a factory roller cam. I have been told initial break in is not nearly as mission critical as a flat tappet. Although I was still planning on pretending it is a flat tappet with break in oil, etc. unless you guys think that’s a silly idea. I’ll revisit the relays and oil priming with y’all via pm or a fresh thread once I’m at that stage.

Thanks again!
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@Swims350 has a neighbor with a great parts truck. It's even a 5-speed truck if you want to go that route.
 

Swims350

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@Swims350 has a neighbor with a great parts truck. It's even a 5-speed truck if you want to go that route.



sure does body is rough, and it lost spark so he says, but he was asking $500 for it, price might go lower now just sitting collecting bags of trash. Frame is trashed on it too bad under each rear cab mount
 

Kyle Childress

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Thanks for the responses and I apologize for it turning into a derailment of your thread.
I bought an msd blaster 8207 coil. I got baffled tanks, senders and I’m using an in tank fuel pump from a vortec era 350.

My engine is a new gm vortec with a factory roller cam. I have been told initial break in is not nearly as mission critical as a flat tappet. Although I was still planning on pretending it is a flat tappet with break in oil, etc. unless you guys think that’s a silly idea. I’ll revisit the relays and oil priming with y’all via pm or a fresh thread once I’m at that stage.

Thanks again!
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What are you using as a coil driver?
 

Kyle Childress

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@Swims350 has a neighbor with a great parts truck. It's even a 5-speed truck if you want to go that route.

I would be interested in a good parts truck but WV is a bit of a haul for me lol, but i would look at pictures of it and could possibly talk the wife into a trip is I propose it as a mini vacation....
 

Swims350

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here ya go then.....
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Swims350

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rockers gone, pass. fender and both edsides rusted or bondo'd over

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Swims350

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00 4.3 5 speed, has clean clear wv title in his name, and frame is for sure rotted out under cab mounts on each side in back.
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Swims350

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oh those are brand new tires, and aftermarket wheels 16's he'd keep those and let go for less I'm sure. He was going to junk it and sell the wheels and tires. He told me flat out he has to pay the guy he got it from 200, and then he wants some cash for himself, thus the 500 price tag. I'd say it may be possible to snatch it without the wheels and tires for maybe 2-300 but that's a guess on my part. My mom wanted it and was going to get it until we found the bad frame, and he had said he was going to trade it for a vinson atv but never did so I figure price might be more negotiable now.
 

Frankenchevy

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What are you using as a coil driver?
The one that came with the sniper. Based on the wiring diagram in the reference manual.
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bluex

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The one that came with the sniper. Based on the wiring diagram in the reference manual.
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I did the same thing with the same parts. Working pretty good for me so far.
 

Frankenchevy

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I did the same thing with the same parts. Working pretty good for me so far.
I actually bought that coil based on reading your build thread, thanks!
 

Kyle Childress

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I actually bought that coil based on reading your build thread, thanks!

Make sure you mount the coil a really good distance away from the sniper. They are super prone to RF interferrance issues, so it's best to isolate the sniper best you can. It's because the way the ecu is made into the throttle body.
 

Kyle Childress

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Got my Texas Speed headers and Ypipe in..... look at the majesty. And you ask " but Kyle you work for Holley why didn't you just get Hooker long tubes for your truck?" well, I would have but these are stainless and our hookers are just ceramic coated and no ypipe.

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