1991 V2500 4l80e 1st Gear Issue

[trav2210]

I threw the only A and B solenoids in town into it before I tore it apart. Still didn't fix anything.

Agreed, the wiring harness will be coming out. Rebuild kit getting ordered tonight to replace steels and clutches. I will pickup a master kit that includes new brass bushings as well.

I'll cut back on the beer budget to move some over to the converter and remaining solenoid budget...

 

[HotRodPC]

I threw the only A and B solenoids in town into it before I tore it apart. Still didn't fix anything.

Agreed, the wiring harness will be coming out. Rebuild kit getting ordered tonight to replace steels and clutches. I will pickup a master kit that includes new brass bushings as well.

I'll cut back on the beer budget to move some over to the converter and remaining solenoid budget...

 

[trav2210]

This is the kit I went with
https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/GM-4l80e-master-rebuild-kit-1991-1995/

Im looking for the best source for a new converter. Autozone,oriley ,Napa etc carry new Hampton, pro king and dance.

Are any of those brands worthwhile?

 

[HotRodPC]

I just looked it up for you, there is a Transtar Industries in Orlando. If you can swing it, go for a Recon Converter from them. They have now also acquired DAACO converters. I like the furnace brazed Recon Converters, but DAACO isn't bad either and might even be done to the same spec as Recon. These guys are kind of high on their kits IMO but they are good quality kits too. However, many have good kits, things like TransTec gasket kits and Raysbestos and Borg Warner clutches so for the kits, even though there is Transtar in OKC, I still order my kits out of FL at transpartsusa.com. But the Recon converters I'll do since shipping for that weight is so expensive and the converters are good.


Here's a little info on 4L80-E Converters that might interest you. http://www.transtar1.com/product-landing-pages/torque-converters/4L80E-Torque-Converter

 

[foamypirate]

I just looked it up for you, there is a Transtar Industries in Orlando. If you can swing it, go for a Recon Converter from them. They have now also acquired DAACO converters. I like the furnace brazed Recon Converters, but DAACO isn't bad either and might even be done to the same spec as Recon. These guys are kind of high on their kits IMO but they are good quality kits too. However, many have good kits, things like TransTec gasket kits and Raysbestos and Borg Warner clutches so for the kits, even though there is Transtar in OKC, I still order my kits out of FL at transpartsusa.com. But the Recon converters I'll do since shipping for that weight is so expensive and the converters are good.


Here's a little info on 4L80-E Converters that might interest you. http://www.transtar1.com/product-landing-pages/torque-converters/4L80E-Torque-Converter

x2 on the Recon converter. I've got a 91-97' GM82 converter paired with my 99' 4L80E behind my 6.0L LS. The GM82 will interchange with the GM88 that is "technically" the correct converter for my 99' 4L80E. Not that any of that matters to you! I'm happy with the converter, stalls right around 2,500 in my heavy ass truck (catalog claims 2,400 - 2,600 stall for the small block version).

 

[trav2210]

Well,

I got to thinking today and here are my thoughts so far which I will confirm soon.

Transmission made a buzzing noise along with a hissing noise under load.
Transmission dust cover was covered in a massive amount of fluid as well as fluid all down the rear of the trans/tcase and frame.
When I got the trans initially, it was low on fluid
When driving in its current state, the floor would get extremely hot

From what ive always known, noise is almost always from the pump or converter
These stock converters were known to crack
Low fluid is bad.....
A leak in the converter would prevent adequate lockup in the converter, thus generating heat

My assumption is that this converter was the root of my problems. I believe the crack has been dumping fluid out under load (hissing noise) and is whats all over the side of the transmission. That of course lead to bigger problems.

IDK maybe I'm crazy, but there really wasn't anything wrong with this internally to suggest my DTC's.

 

[trav2210]

I think I will end up with a B81 converter going into it. I considered a b82 as it is the higher stall, however, I think the B81 will be better as far as towing goes. I'm a little split on the decision, but we'll see how it works out for now.

 

[trav2210]

Oh yeah,

Parts came in today. Fast shipping!!!
Box was all smashed though....

Pics to follow

 

[foamypirate]

I think I will end up with a B81 converter going into it. I considered a b82 as it is the higher stall, however, I think the B81 will be better as far as towing goes. I'm a little split on the decision, but we'll see how it works out for now.

The B82 was the originally spec'd converter for a Smallblock. They just don't make the off the line torque the big blocks did. I'd personally stick with the B82.

 

[trav2210]

Everywhere I look, and all the parts stores call for the b81.

I understand the 82 was for the sbc and the 81 should be for the BBC and diesel to match their power bands, yet it conflicts with all the vendors.

I'll post a pic of the original converter to cross reference what I currently have.

Was there a change that prevents the first (91) 4l80s from using the b82?

 

[trav2210]

Well after further looking. I find that my converter with the number 8674193 is the dual stator HIGH stall converter as we all expected.

That still doesn't explain why all of these local parts stores suggest the low stall.

Good learning point, if you haven't known it already, parts stores only know their computer system, not your vehicle.

I can't begin to tell you how many times I could have said that in all the years I've been working on vehicles...

 

[foamypirate]

Well after further looking. I find that my converter with the number 8674193 is the dual stator HIGH stall converter as we all expected.

That still doesn't explain why all of these local parts stores suggest the low stall.

Good learning point, if you haven't known it already, parts stores only know their computer system, not your vehicle.

I can't begin to tell you how many times I could have said that in all the years I've been working on vehicles...

Ain't that the truth!

 

[HotRodPC]

I will very rarely get any transmission parts from one of the discount auto chains. They'll only stock or carry what they can sell a million of, even in their warehouses and it usually ends up being a one size fits all part, so in this case, they'll go with the 1 part that will work for all applications, even though it's not optimal.

Have you given that Transtar a call in Orlando to see what they stock? It might cost more, but see about the model that ends in BP for the Billet Piston. It may only be $10 or so more and worth it for sure. Even if $20 more, I'd still do it.

 

[trav2210]

well, good news and bad news.

Found the problem, however, now I need to find parts.

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Looks like the Direct Clutch Plate that sits on the piston cracked, spun around until it had double layered itself, causing that set of clutch packs to always be engaged. I wondered why I had such a hard time pulling out the snap ring holding them all in.

It also dug in and cut a small groove on the piston. I think some emery cloth will clean it up good enough. What do you all think?

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Anyone know where to find hard parts like these other than online? I found one for 13$ on Transpartsonline.com.

 

[trav2210]

Well, got it all back together and it ended up blowing out on a trip from Orlando to CA. I was stranded in a little town called Junction TX.

Middle of nowhere....

Long story short, bought a Jasper replacement and threw it in. Finished the trip and am now working motor issues...