1987 Chevrolet 350 tbi high idle

[Rusty Nail]

Eureka!

PICTURE GOLDMINE!
Omg such sights to show you..

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[Rusty Nail]

Reckon that's the OE water pump?
:scratch:

 

[AuroraGirl]

The ground on the core support has an added wire for a light bar, that I never use ffs but it was a gift so I put it on the truck. It’s a small light bar. I just tucked the ground wire under the washer for the existing ground.

if you would like some GM official material on the subject, its not long but it explains a lot about why that is not the best idea.

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At the time linked, its about grounds. If you want to watch the whole video, its very helpful in general electrical but its some buick only stuff on the first part, then about some technicain stuff so you would have to watch that. Its a helpful thing tho, to be sure.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I can remove the ground, I can completely remove the light bar it doesn’t benefit me I’ve used it maybe twice? Hell I dunno. It was a phase I figure. Usually if I’m tapping into a ground I use an eyelet and crimp in on the end. @Rusty Nail I suppose you found some interesting things in my photos? I’m trying to be 100% honest in the photos I didn’t hide my ground tap. I have no idea whether or not it’s the original water pump or if it’s been replaced. The truck as a whole has ~94k on it and the original engine had about 62k. So if it’s original it’s got around 94 if it was replaced it’s got around 32.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I can remove the ground, I can completely remove the light bar it doesn’t benefit me I’ve used it maybe twice? Hell I dunno. It was a phase I figure. Usually if I’m tapping into a ground I use an eyelet and crimp in on the end. @Rusty Nail I suppose you found some interesting things in my photos? I’m trying to be 100% honest in the photos I didn’t hide my ground tap. I have no idea whether or not it’s the original water pump or if it’s been replaced. The truck as a whole has ~94k on it and the original engine had about 62k. So if it’s original it’s got around 94 if it was replaced it’s got around 32.

the ground is rusty and really important and the thing the fender is grounding to most importantly is the chassis to the battery. anything in the middle is yikes. Im pretty sure your chassis is how the ECM makes its way back, the strap from the manifold to the firewall? unless im being delusional lol

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I can start checking grounds, but I don’t think the ground has something to do with the over heating? It might have something to do with the idle problem but I’m more worried about the running hot currently n

 

[AuroraGirl]

I can start checking grounds, but I don’t think the ground has something to do with the over heating? It might have something to do with the idle problem but I’m more worried about the running hot currently n

the ground thing may very well be causing driveability afr issues which very much can heat up if its lean or something

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I don’t think it’s lean, before I changed the map sensor and engine coolant temp sensor you couldn’t stand behind the truck it was running so rich. Now it’s tolerable but still can smell gasoline.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I don’t think it’s lean, before I changed the map sensor and engine coolant temp sensor you couldn’t stand behind the truck it was running so rich. Now it’s tolerable but still can smell gasoline.

doesnt necessarily means its lean.

Can you start your truck, ground A and B on the ALDL, and then drive your normal driving. Video the CEL or just monitor what it does. When you get up to "temp" tell me how frequent the flashing is

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Does it have to be normal driving or can I let it just sit there and run? I’d rather not drive around too far with how it’s running.

 

[gmbellew]

you should be able to let it idle. what she is getting at is the service engine light will flash differently once it hits closed loop operation. I don't remember for sure, but I think it flashes faster in closed loop.

 

[AuroraGirl]

you should be able to let it idle. what she is getting at is the service engine light will flash differently once it hits closed loop operation. I don't remember for sure, but I think it flashes faster in closed loop.

idling will be cooler on the exhaust and may take longer to get into closed loop. If he drove around a little he would be certain the engine would have been into closed because of the extra heat.
but if you want to let it idle, i guess do it right away and see if you notice it ever change and if it coincides with idle or smells or anything.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Well I mean since my idle is as 1600 that’s gonna make it heat up faster right? I’ll go do that shortly I’m about to eat dinner I’ve got a paper clip I’ll put it in the a and b and run the truck until it’s up to temp while monitoring the ServiceEngineLight flashes.

 

[AuroraGirl]

have we confirmed your throttle cable isnt binding or sticking because 1600 rpm is just, frankly, too ridiciulous without an obvious contributing cause. Like a vacuum leak. open iac. messed with air screw. a throttle cable thats old and worn and is binding or bunches up from wear inside the thing.

but yes do

 

[Bextreme04]

Honestly.... the first things I would do would be to make absolutely sure I didn't have a vacuum leak from the intake manifold, throttle body, or any vacuum lines. I would then go through the idle set procedure(it has been posted earlier in this thread and also is in the emissions and drivability manual that has also been posted). If you can not get the idle to set properly, you need to stop and figure that out FIRST. You are overheating because it is not properly set within specs that the ECU can manage.

Once you get the idle set properly, then go through and properly set your timing at idle per the same emissions and drivability manual. If you have done all of that and it is still overheating, then you can start looking at other stuff. To have it running this poorly and just ignore it to chase overheating is mind boggling to me. You could very well be overheating BECAUSE it is running this poorly.