1982 K5 Towing Capacity

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BlazerDave87

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David
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
K5 Blazer
Engine Size
350 crate
I'm not sure where to post this, so I decided to start here.

I have an 82 K5. I've got a crate 350, new 700R4 (1987 because I heard that they got better in later years). I put a transmission cooler on, rebuilt all the brake system, new shocks, etc. So, mechanically I know it's sound and stout. My question is this: what is the realistic towing capacity of a fairly stock K5? I grew up in a time and area where there was caution expressed using shorter wheelbase vehicles to tow (particularly Jeep CJ5 & CJ7). I know the K5 is longer than those, but wanted to hear from the community here on your thoughts. I'm obviously not going to be towing something ridiculous, but I also don't want to be overdoing it for this vehicle.

Thanks everyone!
 

Crispy

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I wouldnt run more than 4-5k on a K5 and thats with slightly larger than stock tires, a trailer brake, and stabilizer. Thats my opinion based on the factory braking system and the short wheel base.

Remember larger tires will change your effective gear ratio.
 

Grit dog

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Depends what and where/how far. Pulling a load of hay in from the field low speed flat ground, short distance, I’d pull whatever the springs could handle.
High profile trailer across Wyoming, high altitude and mountain passes, I would want more than 4-5klbs worth of trailer even with good trailer brakes.
So the short and long answer is “it depends” imo.
 

SirRobyn0

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So the short and long answer is “it depends” imo.
I agree with that, I'll also add besides trailer type, driver abilities, and terrain make a big difference. How you equip the trailer, will make a difference too. I'll tell you a recent towing story too. I bought a duel axle 18' car trailer recently. Drove it over a mountain pass empty and picked up a small 3,000 pound tractor and brought it back. Tow vehicle was my 1984 C-20 350 700R4. Thought to have the 3.73 rear end we are now thinking it's a 3.42, but that's a different story. I've got one of those brake controllers that senses how fast you are slowing down and applies the trailer brakes as needed. Let me tell you that is really nice, I had no issues with stopping both on dry and wet roads. The trailer tracked so well behind the truck handling was almost as good as if the trailer wasn't even there. On the flat lands power was ok, but it obviously took longer to get up to speed. First of the smaller hills heading towards the pass I was in 2nd gear. I was able to maintain a reasonable speed, around 60mph, but every single hill, down into 2nd gear. So I'm looking at probably re-gearing the rearend to hopefully get it do a little better on the hill and passes. Would I do it again, yes, but my current setup is a little marginal in the power area for pulling 5,000lbs over mountain pass.
 

AuroraGirl

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Tires. I found on my 1/2 ton f150 pulling a 3/4ton square body box made into a trailer that a 14 bolt having rotating mass(axle shafts in) made it difficult to stop as much as having good rear tires on the f150, ones that actually grip. my tires were old, 10 years old or so, and not plyable or sticky. Stock size, but both were about equal and its MUCH better
 

BlazerDave87

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Thanks for the responses everyone. It's stock height, running new 32" tires, so plenty of rubber to the road. The plan is to use it as a secondary tow vehicle for the JetSki's or the boat. Neither is over 3,500 lbs. My main concern was the short wheel base.
Stay safe everyone!
 

80BrownK10

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350
Thanks for the responses everyone. It's stock height, running new 32" tires, so plenty of rubber to the road. The plan is to use it as a secondary tow vehicle for the JetSki's or the boat. Neither is over 3,500 lbs. My main concern was the short wheel base.
Stay safe everyone!
In that case I would not worry one bit.
 

AuroraGirl

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Especially boat and jet ski trailers. balanced and not super heavy anyway
 

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