1980 k10 dual shocks to single

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Brian
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1980/1984 Frankenstein
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K10 Silverado
Engine Size
305
Hello,

So I just removed the stock dual shocks from my 1980 K10 Silverado. They were so old and crusty. Lol.

I am putting on some Rancho RS5000x. I know this brand is not the best but I can imagine it will be better than the trash I had on.

The issue I have is I am just not 100% sure I am putting these on correctly. The lower bolt on the front is strange looking and I assume I have it on right but I just wanted a second opinion before tightening anything down. I was planning to not use a second shock on each side if I can get away with that.

Do I need a longer bolt like the stock one that I cut off with a grinder wheel? Lol.

I've looked high and low for info on this and cannot find any videos or pictures of how it should look here.

I have spacers in the top, is that right to do as well?

Pics to help.

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Factory single shocks go on the rearmost upper bracket and the lower end goes inside the axle bracket (in between the tabs).

Just to make sure I understand. Would you be talking about option 1 or 2 below?

1 being the other spot to install the shock, where the second shock was or 1 using the 2 top and 1 on the bottom? The angle seemed off for that option but I could see 1 working too I suppose. I just assumed the straight up and down way was correct.

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RecklessWOT

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Just to make sure I understand. Would you be talking about option 1 or 2 below?

1 being the other spot to install the shock, where the second shock was or 1 using the 2 top and 1 on the bottom? The angle seemed off for that option but I could see 1 working too I suppose. I just assumed the straight up and down way was correct.

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Option 1.

Really no reason not to do both, but if trying to save a few bucks and only doing a single shock, 1 is correct. You have it in the wrong sopt out of tht two possible locations, you were right to think that trying to criss-cross the two mounts would not work.
 
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Thanks, everyone! This bolt I assumed was for the bottom. It does not fit in the bottom option.

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Any ideas on how this thing should be positioned?
 
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nvrenuf

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Thanks, everyone! This bolt I assumed was for the bottom. It does not fit in the bottom option.

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Any ideas on how this thing should be positioned?

That bolt is for the upper mount of the rear shocks.
 

scrap--metal

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Thanks, everyone! This bolt I assumed was for the bottom. It does not fit in the bottom option.

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Any ideas on how this thing should be positioned?

That "bolt" is for mounting rear shocks to the frame rail. I don't think it belongs with your front shocks.
 

nvrenuf

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I’d double check those shocks before you run them, it looks like once you move it to the primary position (#1) the shock will be almost fully compressed.
 
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well that explains a lot! lol.

Again, thank you all so much for the help.

I will get back at it and hopefully wont run into issues. I dont know why I assumed the longer shock was for the front.
 
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The shorter one looks a little compressed in this position as well. Am I wrong in thinking this looks as it should?

These are the shocks I ordered. Sorry for all the newb questions.



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scrap--metal

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Am I wrong in thinking this looks as it should?
I think that looks better, and newb questions are part of the learning process.

The shorter one looks a little compressed in this position as well.
In your picture, it looks like you have a jack under the front axle, supporting the truck. That's going to compress your leaf springs. In that position, your front shocks will also definitely be compressed to some extent.

When I replace shocks, I like to support the frame on jack stands and let the axle hang down. It makes it easier to get the shocks on because there's usually not much compression required to get the bolt holes lined up. You don't need to use a jack on the bottom of the shock that way.
 

nvrenuf

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@lifeofbriank10 Imo, that shock looks like it'll be ok. If you look at the gap between the rubber bumper (bump stop / suspension limiter) on the frame and top of the u-bolt plate it appears to be smaller than the length of the exposed shock shaft (hidden by the red boot), this should give the shock plenty of room to cycle with the suspension without bottoming out.
 
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Finally finished after cutting all the old bolts off due to rust. Replaced with grade 8, etc, etc. That was a dirty chore! Now to hook up a battery cut off so I can figure out where my parasitic draw is coming from without having to constantly recharge, lol.
 

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