1975 K10 hub/rotor removal

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Nastardly

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2016
Posts
50
Reaction score
1
Location
Sacramento, California
First Name
Dylan
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K10 Scottsdale, short box, stepside, part time NP205 conversion
Engine Size
350
Hello, all,
In an attempt to change my lug studs, I have taken of my wheel and tire, hub locker and my caliper, from here, I have no clue as nothing seems to have any bolts or screws. I purchased a 2.25" spindle nut socket, but it does not fit inside the hub. How in the eff do I use this thing?
 

Attachments

  • 20170129_170426.jpg
    20170129_170426.jpg
    95.1 KB · Views: 527
  • 20170129_170422.jpg
    20170129_170422.jpg
    90.7 KB · Views: 322
  • 20170129_170417.jpg
    20170129_170417.jpg
    82.8 KB · Views: 272

1low4x4

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Posts
2,409
Reaction score
716
Location
Texas
First Name
Nick
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
5.7
I have WARN locking hubs on mine so yours look a little different, is there some sort of lock ring or something holding that outer grooved female hub in? seems like once you got that out you could access the nuts that the socket is used on
@bucket @crazy4offroad
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,446
Reaction score
28,356
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
It's hard to tell in the picture what type of lockout you have, but there's still the inner part in there that needs removed. Once it is out of the way, you can remove the spindle lock nut, lock ring, then spindle nut. That socket you have may or may not work.
 

crazy4offroad

Equal Opportunity Destroyer
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
8,479
Reaction score
1,109
Location
West BY-GOD Virginia
First Name
Curt
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
K-10
Engine Size
350/SM465/NP205
There's a large snapring in the hub near the outside edge that holds the hub assembly in, and a small snapring on the end of the axle stub shaft. Both have to be removed to disassemble the hub. You can reach behind the hub to the knuckle and push the axleshaft out a little and the stub shaft snapring should reveal itself. The large snapring is just a ************ to get out. That looks like a spindle nut socket for a D60 but I have seen some that have that outer skirt for the 10-bolt Corporate. There should be a tabbed washer between the spindle nuts that will have to have the tabs bent out of the way to get the outer spindle locknut off.
 
Last edited:

Nastardly

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2016
Posts
50
Reaction score
1
Location
Sacramento, California
First Name
Dylan
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K10 Scottsdale, short box, stepside, part time NP205 conversion
Engine Size
350
There was indeed a retainer ring. It was kind of a pain in the butt because everybody has warned lockers and have dual magics, so none of the forum write ups or videos online showed how to disassemble my specific type. I have it all disassembled and the new lug studs put in, I just have to get new bearings and the grease for it and put everything back together. Thanks for the quick reaponses, guys.
 

Craig 85

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Posts
3,917
Reaction score
4,116
Location
Nashville, TN
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
454/TH-400/NP205
Since you installed new studs, be sure to re-check the torque on those lug nuts after about 100 miles. Some times they don't seat fully when they get installed. You don't want to lose a wheel.
 

Nastardly

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2016
Posts
50
Reaction score
1
Location
Sacramento, California
First Name
Dylan
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K10 Scottsdale, short box, stepside, part time NP205 conversion
Engine Size
350
Thanks, Craig. I do have another question, I have the new bearings and races pressed in, the seal placed on the inner bearing, the out bearing free floating for whatever reason, but no matter how much I torque down this God damn spanner nut, the spindle shaft doesn't protrude enough to put the hub on and then the retainer ring. Any thoughts or ideas?
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,446
Reaction score
28,356
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
You mean the axle shaft? And the locking hub? That snap ring often doesn't fit with some locking hubs, you just run without it. IIRC, auto hubs didn't use that ring either.
 

Nastardly

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2016
Posts
50
Reaction score
1
Location
Sacramento, California
First Name
Dylan
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K10 Scottsdale, short box, stepside, part time NP205 conversion
Engine Size
350
My only problem is that it was on there when I took it off and it is on the other side.
 

Craig 85

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Posts
3,917
Reaction score
4,116
Location
Nashville, TN
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
454/TH-400/NP205
Last edited:

Nastardly

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2016
Posts
50
Reaction score
1
Location
Sacramento, California
First Name
Dylan
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K10 Scottsdale, short box, stepside, part time NP205 conversion
Engine Size
350
Thanks for those links. I pulled my whole hub and rotor off once more to inspect, I found I had mangled my seal on my inner bearing and the little free floating metal slip ring on the spindle. I have seen other threads discussing whether or not that thing even belongs there.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,175
Posts
950,910
Members
36,292
Latest member
Bulldog99
Top