1973 Rear Cab Mount Removal

[iflyfisher]

I'm replacing the cab mounts on my 1973 K20 and have finished up the front cab mounts. I pulled the bolt on one of the rear mounts and saw that I will need to lift the corner by about 3" to remove the metal sleeve. I had read to replace only one corner at a time to not shift the alignment. But lifting that one corner 3" with the other corners still buttoned down seems like a lot. For those of you who have done this, should I pull the other rear mount bolt before jacking up the rear cab corner or is jacking up one corner 3" not an issue? Thanks

Ken

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Technically the best way is to have all the mounts loose, then do one side at a time. Alignment can be and most usually has to be tweaked after bushing replacement. It probably wouldnt be great for the front clip to cab gap jacking up on one corner or just the back two, other than two jacks I'm not sure how you would do that anyways.

Those rear ones are pretty dang tall.

 

[iflyfisher]

Thanks @PrairieDrifter for responding. What you wrote makes sense. I’ll loosen the front bolts as well as the other rear cab bolt and lift the cab side to side rather than back to front to get those rear sleeves out. As I still have the front clip and bed on, I can realign to those before tightening.

Ken

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Thanks @PrairieDrifter for responding. What you wrote makes sense. I’ll loosen the front bolts as well as the other rear cab bolt and lift the cab side to side rather than back to front to get those rear sleeves out. As I still have the front clip and bed on, I can realign to those before tightening.

Ken

No problem. It's not too bad to move the cab around.

Just did the cab mounts on my 79 last month, went smoothly.

 

[iflyfisher]

I got all the mounts for the cab in. The documentation for the Energy Suspension noted to torque to 85 pounds. The four bolts didn't tighten consistently. For the two rear mounts and one front mount, the polyurethane cone bushing that sits below the frame didn't compress too much by the time I hit 85 foot pounds. The fourth one, however, compressed considerably, deforming the cone shape to where it now looks like a donut. I am guessing the upper and lower bushing need to compress to the point the bottom washer is tightening against the sleeve.

@PrairieDrifter, Did you use the Energy Suspension bushings? If so, how much did that lower cone bushing compress? Those two front sleeves weren't in the best condition. I'm wondering if one compressed when I tightened the bolt. I may remove it tomorrow and check. But I am curious how much those cone bushings should compress.

Ken

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I got all the mounts for the cab in. The documentation for the Energy Suspension noted to torque to 85 pounds. The four bolts didn't tighten consistently. For the two rear mounts and one front mount, the polyurethane cone bushing that sits below the frame didn't compress too much by the time I hit 85 foot pounds. The fourth one, however, compressed considerably, deforming the cone shape to where it now looks like a donut. I am guessing the upper and lower bushing need to compress to the point the bottom washer is tightening against the sleeve.

@PrairieDrifter, Did you use the Energy Suspension bushings? If so, how much did that lower cone bushing compress? Those two front sleeves weren't in the best condition. I'm wondering if one compressed when I tightened the bolt. I may remove it tomorrow and check. But I am curious how much those cone bushings should compress.

Ken

I did. They don't compress a whole lot, but they do a little bit. The rear mounts the instructions tell you to cut off some of the sleeve for the back two. The other ones you don't have to touch. I didn't torque mine though, I just goodntight'd it.