14 bolt axle tubes are… coming out????!

[bucket]

@bucket

Wow, I've never seen anything like that before. I can see how it goes on but what are those "arms" supposed to do? Are you supposed to weld the ends of those "arms" to the axle tubes? And that is supposed to keep the tubes from slipping out? Gee. What I have in mind would require the removal and complete disassembly of the rear end to repair it correctly. But you guys are always doing that sort of stuff anyway aren't you?
I was thinking about my 'ol '64 Dodge Dart and my hopped up Slant Six I had in '72 and the stuff I had on hand but couldn't do it all myself, and what I could have done to that little screamer if I had just had one guy to help me back then. Just a helping hand was all I needed and no one I knew couldn't tell you a wrench from a screw driver. I was the lone hot rodder. I used to work on my '69 Charger by myself to, it's like I'm still doing the same thing, working on my stuff by myself.
So if you've got somebody to help you pull that rear end, do it.

I'd pull the axle from the truck to make the repair, it'd be much easier that way. Yes, those outrigger arms weld right to the axle tubes. It's a pretty sturdy setup that has been used by many and it does what it's supposed to do. Kurt also has a version of it that works in conjunction with his beefy traction/ant-wrap bar setup, which is the route I would really like to take.

 

[Raider L]

HotRodPc you're so funny! They do make a soft epoxy like that but I wouldn't want to risk it here.

 

[Juggernaut]

AuroraGirl, I suggest marking the axle tube and the pumpkin with a sharpie or scratch it with an awl, drive it and see if there's any movement. It does appear from your pictures that there may be a little oil seepage around the plug welds and maybe at the axle tube. There's very little chance the tube would come out, but the plug welds can crack at the pumpkin and cause the tubes to move around slightly. What you do not want to do is try to weld the axle tube to the pumpkin. The pumpkin is cast iron and it would be difficult to get a good solid weld that would hold.

 

[AuroraGirl]

AuroraGirl, I suggest marking the axle tube and the pumpkin with a sharpie or scratch it with an awl, drive it and see if there's any movement. It does appear from your pictures that there may be a little oil seepage around the plug welds and maybe at the axle tube. There's very little chance the tube would come out, but the plug welds can crack at the pumpkin and cause the tubes to move around slightly. What you do not want to do is try to weld the axle tube to the pumpkin. The pumpkin is cast iron and it would be difficult to get a good solid weld that would hold.

I think Ill take the rust/paint remover on the angle grinder and clean it up, and use a scribing tool and then also a paint market nearby. quick ID as long as its clean, then precise mark regardless

I guess i wish I had pics of it before hand lol

 

[Bextreme04]

I think there is a fundamental misunderstanding of what is going on here. The 14BFF axle tubes are press fit into the third member and then spot welded through holes in the third member. It is VERY common to get seepage of oil around the tube over time. Often, people will weld the seam or put gum or epoxy or other things on that seam to keep it from seeping oil. It has absolutely no structural impact on the axle at all. I had my whole axle out for a cleaning, rebuild, and locker installation so I welded the seam all the way around to prevent future leakage.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I think there is a fundamental misunderstanding of what is going on here. The 14BFF axle tubes are press fit into the third member and then spot welded through holes in the third member. It is VERY common to get seepage of oil around the tube over time. Often, people will weld the seam or put gum or epoxy or other things on that seam to keep it from seeping oil. It has absolutely no structural impact on the axle at all. I had my whole axle out for a cleaning, rebuild, and locker installation so I welded the seam all the way around to prevent future leakage.

it wasnt the oil seepage it was the appearance that the tubes pulled away from the third member. but it seems it just may be appearances or a failed memory of what it was before.

 

[Bextreme04]

it wasnt the oil seepage it was the appearance that the tubes pulled away from the third member. but it seems it just may be appearances or a failed memory of what it was before.

I'm mostly talking about eveyone else's comments. I wouldn't be worried about them coming out, its not really a concern.Those plug welds are massive and in multiple locations, it's not going anywhere.

 

[AuroraGirl]

does it being a trailer application with no axle shafts installed in anyway change that in your opinion? they are capped and the sucker pumped with a lot of gear lube

 

[Bextreme04]

does it being a trailer application with no axle shafts installed in anyway change that in your opinion? they are capped and the sucker pumped with a lot of gear lube

Not a bit... the axles don't retain anything, they just slide into the pumpkin and are bolted to the hub. The 14BFF is rated for something like 7600lbs of load on the springs. Unless you've been hauling granite boulders in there, I wouldn't be worried about it

 

[AuroraGirl]

Not a bit... the axles don't retain anything, they just slide into the pumpkin and are bolted to the hub. The 14BFF is rated for something like 7600lbs of load on the springs. Unless you've been hauling granite boulders in there, I wouldn't be worried about it

my largest load in the bed was about 900 pounds weighed at a scale
plus the topper and the bed itself./

so safe to say its good lol!

 

[Juggernaut]

I think there is a fundamental misunderstanding of what is going on here. The 14BFF axle tubes are press fit into the third member and then spot welded through holes in the third member. It is VERY common to get seepage of oil around the tube over time. Often, people will weld the seam or put gum or epoxy or other things on that seam to keep it from seeping oil. It has absolutely no structural impact on the axle at all. I had my whole axle out for a cleaning, rebuild, and locker installation so I welded the seam all the way around to prevent future leakage.

You're right, they're a press fit, but not a very tight press fit, hence the seepage. Maybe size for size, I was able to push my tubes out with a 4 ton Porta-Power. Anyway, can you tell me what rod or wire you used? Did you have to heat the casting up before welding it? I assume you have been running it. It didn't crack back out around the pumpkin and start leaking again?

 

[Bextreme04]

You're right, they're a press fit, but not a very tight press fit, hence the seepage. Maybe size for size, I was able to push my tubes out with a 4 ton Porta-Power. Anyway, can you tell me what rod or wire you used? Did you have to heat the casting up before welding it? I assume you have been running it. It didn't crack back out around the pumpkin and start leaking again?

You pushed your axle tubes out of the third member with a 4 ton press? That seems not right at all. They are press fit together, but have three massive through hole welds that bond the tube to the third member....

I just pre-heated it a bit with a MAPP torch and then ran a small fillet bead using .035 wire using my Lincoln 180HD. I haven't used it yet as I'm still part way through rebuilding everything. I just got the motor assembled last weekend and will be painting and assembling the driveshafts and NP205 this week. Then I just need to put everything back together... hopefully this weekend.

 

[Juggernaut]

You pushed your axle tubes out of the third member with a 4 ton press? That seems not right at all. They are press fit together, but have three massive through hole welds that bond the tube to the third member....

I just pre-heated it a bit with a MAPP torch and then ran a small fillet bead using .035 wire using my Lincoln 180HD. I haven't used it yet as I'm still part way through rebuilding everything. I just got the motor assembled last weekend and will be painting and assembling the driveshafts and NP205 this week. Then I just need to put everything back together... hopefully this weekend.

Should have added I cut the plug welds out with an end mill in a Bridgeport mill. I did this to change the pinion angle on my rear end due to running a 12" suspension lift and trying to improve the drive shaft angle. It was a bad idea, I went to far and changed from having u-joint problems to pinion bearings running dry and locking up. Anyway, E-70 wire, 75/25 mix or something else? I used 7018 MR4 rod when I welded up the plugs and it cracked around the casting first time I ran it. I finally just had to v-groove it out slightly and used JB weld to get it to stop seeping. Figured I had to do something, if oil can get out, water can get in

 

[AuroraGirl]

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didnt think id be back. I pulled my cap off. I have a small amount of end play on this drum, that spindle nut doesnt appear "centered" on the opening, those holes on the hub look a little smushed, the little tabs on the sides are... well they look like they are not all there?
and the spindle nut rocks back and forth a tiny, that out one. the threads are crossthreaded or damaged so it doesnt come offf.

Also looks like a pice of metal on the right there where the socket goes?

please advise. other side had no end play(didnt pull cap off)

bearing is visible with proper line of sight all around and doesnt look bad, no bad noises. fluid was decent and still same level. so im not worried there.

 

[AuroraGirl]

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same hub a year ago. appears the same as best i can see