10 Bolt Input Slop

[78C10BigTen]

yeah... it's supposed to look like this... I think you may be missing a few parts.

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So as it is i have a 1 wheel drive truck lol wish i had that unit.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

At $1800 that guy is thinking he's got a big fish on the hook, **** that. I've had the carrier grenade in one and the housing was still usable. The 14 bolt semi-floater would be a better option, if you shop around the junk yards you may find one with a limited slip and the right gear ratio already installed. Not sure if time is of the essence but I wouldn't even go back to that guy's shop asking $1800. Fixing up the toasted axle would probably be the cheapest route. If you're not running high horsepower/big tires I would just run the G80 if the locking mechanism gears still look ok. I have one in my parts pile and there's a needle looking gear with a larger wheel looking gear, and the larger gear has a couple teeth missing. It still works but would only be a matter of time till it doesn't work anymore.

I’m kind of on the same page as you on this with rebuilding the Gov Lock. I’ve got factory tires and my engine is only slightly better than stock at this time. Don’t worry, I’m not some redneck that’ll fork over money because of some buzz words being thrown at me. I’ll post pics of the differential innards within the next 24 hrs. Hopefully by tonight. By the way, I’ve also noticed a grindy, popping sound when I make a specific turn. It’s at a railroad crossing where you make a sharp turn while going down a hill. I’ll post a pic, but it’s hard to see. I check for wheel play when they’re up in the air because of wheel bearings. I was just thinking that may also be correlated with the rear end if it’s not the bearings...

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[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Finally got the other crap done and buttoned up. I just pulled the differential cover and took some preliminary photos. I need to get the rear wheels up in the air, let it finish draining, and spray it down with Brakleen, but here are some preliminary photos. I tried to get one of the pinion gear, but it’s dark, and they’re blurry. Also got one of the magnet. Looks like metallic paste/glitter in the middle and some light flakeage. @crazy4offroad @dvdswan @Blue Ox @78c10bigten

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[78C10BigTen]

Finally got the other crap done and buttoned up. I just pulled the differential cover and took some preliminary photos. I need to get the rear wheels up in the air, let it finish draining, and spray it down with Brakleen, but here are some preliminary photos. I tried to get one of the pinion gear, but it’s dark, and they’re blurry. Also got one of the magnet. Looks like metallic paste/glitter in the middle and some light flakeage. @crazy4offroad @dvdswan @Blue Ox @78c10bigten

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Looking decent to me. Better then my gov bomb lol

 

[crazy4offroad]

In the first pic near the top the ring gear teeth look like they've been ran with some serious deflection. That is the "drive" side of the teeth. You can see some rounding and the one near the top looks beveled near the outside of the gear. The mesh pattern is supposed to ride in the middle section of the gear. Don't expect these gears to last very long. A good look of the pinion may really tell how bad they are.

 

[Blue Ox]

Mostly, what crazy4 said.

It's not that easy for me to tell from a picture like this, and you're going to have to get the pinion out anyway. The chips probably came from the pinion bearings and hopefully did not circulate too much. Sometimes they can be reassembled with everything back in alignment and they'll continue to work just fine. Other times they whine and complain. It really depends on what you see when you see the whole picture. Then I guess you need to decide if this is a fix and test or if you want to make sure it's 1000%.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

In the first pic near the top the ring gear teeth look like they've been ran with some serious deflection. That is the "drive" side of the teeth. You can see some rounding and the one near the top looks beveled near the outside of the gear. The mesh pattern is supposed to ride in the middle section of the gear. Don't expect these gears to last very long. A good look of the pinion may really tell how bad they are.

I hear you guys. I haven’t done anything besides cleaning up, but I could see what was mentioned on the ring gear even before doing anything, and there’s definitely some stuff going on with the ring gear. So the shopping list is looking like a new ring, pinion (gear), pinion bearing, and pinion seal. Sound about right? I’m pretty set on keeping the Gov Lock for now so I can escape this relatively cheap in the short term. I’m not sure what to look for there other than literal chunks of it missing like @78c10bigten’s. That coil looks kinda scary, but I’ve read that’s not the typical failure point. I saw they make a pinion repair sleeve. Is this a good thing to have in your back pocket should you need it? It’s only a few dollars.

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[crazy4offroad]

Not sure what the repair sleeve could be, other than the sleeve that goes on the pinion yoke when the oil seal wears a groove in it to the point a new seal wont stop it from leaking.

Are you planning on doing the R&P gears yourself? Just my opinion but it may be a bit much to undertake without some proprietary tools like a press, bearing separator, inch/lb torque wrench, caliper micrometer and a dial indicator with a stand. I may be wrong and you might have access to all that stuff. You'll want to consider replacing the carrier bearings too if they seem to be in bad shape. If so you may want to just get the installation kit as well which will include carrier bearings, all the shims you'll need, gasket and marking paint for setting up the mesh pattern. It usually runs around #125.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Not sure what the repair sleeve could be, other than the sleeve that goes on the pinion yoke when the oil seal wears a groove in it to the point a new seal wont stop it from leaking.

Are you planning on doing the R&P gears yourself? Just my opinion but it may be a bit much to undertake without some proprietary tools like a press, bearing separator, inch/lb torque wrench, caliper micrometer and a dial indicator with a stand. I may be wrong and you might have access to all that stuff. You'll want to consider replacing the carrier bearings too if they seem to be in bad shape. If so you may want to just get the installation kit as well which will include carrier bearings, all the shims you'll need, gasket and marking paint for setting up the mesh pattern. It usually runs around #125.

I agree with you. I’m sure I could round some of that up/have access to it, but all of it no. I found the complete rebuild kit ($85.89), ring and pinion ($152.79), and it looks like the carrier bearing race is a separate piece w/a different part number not included in the master rebuild kit? I’m looking on RockAuto, by the way. Boy, this is making me feel like someone just starting out again.

 

[crazy4offroad]

The carrier bearings should come complete. You may want to check https://www.summitracing.com/ or http://completeoffroad.com/ for a better master install kit.

 

[The88]

My neighbor was at Pull A Part in Lafayette the other day and they have an 89 full size there. I should be going there in the next 2 weeks to snatch her top off and drive shaft if it is still under her. May also strip down more if much else is left. I can let you know unless if you wanna run W to Lafayette yourself before I get in.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Went ahead and ordered a ring and pinion and master rebuild kit from eBay. $194 shipped so I guess I came out okay.