My 78 k10 has a 12 bolt with limited slip and the front is a Dana 44.
I believe they started moving to corp 10 in the front this year and the rear in 81.
I was just having this debate with someone. Heard the narrow track for better traction, possibly stability and turning radius. Common platform as 2wd makes the most sense to save money.
Thanks.
I have driven it several times with the hubs unlocked to move it around. It's a project so not much use. What I need to check is if the T-case is in "Hi" or "Hi lock".
I know what you mean. I waited 3 months on my interior. Glad my door panels and other hard plastic were good. Only needed some of their carmine red paint.
I've been waiting 8 months on the door pulls. Glad I kept my old ones.
Paint they mix in house so the turnaround is a week or less.
Was going to mention the coolant temp sensor.
One of the biggest issues but easy to swap for testing.
Not sure if you have dual tanks, if so a good check to isolate to fuel pump is by switching tanks.
Been a while but I'm almost positive there is a filter/screen inside the tank besides the one...
That's cheap, but probably older than a 2005 since cable driven throttle.
Also an LS3 would be all aluminum. It's probably a 4.3 with a cast iron block. Still a good price.
I almost went with a plaid/tartan insert on my k5, even had samples. Ended up ordering full upholstery from USA1.
I decided to stay with the carmine red scheme it came with.
They cut and assemble per order and are not just a supplier like LMC. They are not fast though. Still waiting after a...
My thought as well. Just run the wire for the choke and not worry about the outside temp.
I personally don't see any advantages by not having one unless the choke is bad.
Just my .02
Wrong steering wheel, those side mirrors didn't start until 79 or 80, power windows didn't start until 77...
I could go on.
Not sure how you restore without touching the bottom of the truck.
I would say it's a home/backyard build but wouldn't want to insult those of us that build out of our...
If you are in Fort Worth you can buy original metal. I just saw some this last week. One at Crain's in Ft Worth and one at Patino in Mesquite.
One was a 78 and the other was an 80.
Thanks.
yes I have a pioneer radio with a built in amp and other features. I'll have to use the strap or it pitches up.
I need to adjust my tabs to hold better too.
How did you support the back of the radio? Did you use the factory metal strap?
Also, I have the same plasic face behind your radio. How did you get the radio to hold itself in place?
Mine is trying to slide out.
Interesting how open the option selection was.
I had an 83 k5 silverado that was barely a silverado IMO. Manual windows, manual locks, standard wipers and standard radio.
It did have carpet, cloth seats and cruise though.
Rust, what rust? Look at my k5 build if you want to see rust.
I've used this several times, works well.
I would remove the rest of the seam sealer in the area so the paint goes all the way down.
Then put new sealer in there. I like to use SEM brand.
One other option you may want to consider would be an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
I installed one in my 87 350 TBI. Has a hex key to adjust.
These units are set from the factory within a range and not necessarily tuned to the truck.
Agree, car restoration company's probably move vins all the time without mentioning. They just use the propoer rivets or move the metal it's attached too.