I believe it is lifted 2" by the previous owner I have a 2" block in the rear and my front springs look to have been re-arched at some point. Between the spring and lowest point of the bump stop is 4 1/4" and if the bump stop were to get FULLY compressed it is 7"
I think I will be safe. From my...
Hello Everyone!
I am in the process of installing a set of new shocks on the k20.
Front: Skyjacker m9551 (2-5" lift, 13.71 collapsed, 22.58 extended)
Rear: Skyjacker m9553 (2-4" lift, 15.94 collapsed, 27.07 extended)
I got one of the fronts mounted up, I think the extended length will be...
I'd also be suspicious of pulleys, pumps, belts, and alternator, just by the pitch. Easy way to rule them out would be put the trans in neutral and give it a rev when the sound is happening. See if the sound speeds up with the motor or slows with the ground speed.
Pretty sure they offer a regular 2 axle version as well. As for this, it screams 24" wheels with low profile mud tires, mall crawling, flat bill hat turned, bro-dozer.
Would love to have that powerplant and drive train in a real truck.
I'm planning on installing one myself here soon. I think install is pretty simple, uninstalling and removing the old bushings would take the longest time but still overall not difficult.
Exactly this. I went to a local to me autox and ran across a guy running a lowered 67 long box c10 with wide slicks (granted probably shorter tires then yours), a plain carbed SBC, and a th400. Didnt do too bad when he kept it from flodding and stalling on fast, sharp left to right corners.
To be honest I did not even think to make a WTB post. The shipping would have been pretty spendy but these things are like gold around here for sure. I also found a good line on a good and free to me manual transmission, tilt steering column. so far I'm thinking I got the hard to find parts...
So I plan on going to the NV4500 so I wont be needing the other bits, just the pedal assembly. the other parts I plan on getting from high-impact.net
However, I did see and loose another auction on flea-bay for the hydraulic bell housing, fork, master, slave and pedal assembly it went for about...
Thanks Ox! a few days ago I ran across this thread https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/clutch-types-z-bar-manual-and-hydraulic.3424/
Which makes me pretty confident its the right one. However the seller saying that its a mechanical from an 86 kind of threw me off. I think I'll pull the trigger...
Great Thanks! I was thinking that as well as the lack of spring for the mechanical return but figured it would best to ask as the damn thing is going to cost $300
Kind of a dumb question but I need to know before I buy it. Seller says its from an 86 truck but they thought it was a mechanical clutch. From the pictures I think its a hydro clutch and the year would also have one in it. just want to make sure before I spend probably too much money on it.
Thanks!
I am curious about the steering column. Since I'm trying to do this in a way that looks nice and somewhat like it should be there. I'd like to not have the gear selector on the column. Is that possible to remove or would I need to buy a different column?
I'll definately have to try that. I figure the hardest part of the work I'd have to do is mount the clutch pedal and master cylinder. After that as long as everything plays nice it should go smoothly.
If I did have a factory manual I would do a gear splitter. And love the idea of that plus a...
Both true. I haven't looked into a GV too much. and just like everything else is pretty situational with what trans and TC you have and are changing from.
From everything I've read in my case its a fairly simple swap and will keep my NP208 right where its at so I wont have to worry about speedo...
There are quite a few threads with great info on how to do this. I figured I would post up my findings as I will be changing my 700r4 out for a NV4500 eventually, and this might help someone else.
A company online https://high-impact.net/ offers custom NV4500 swap kits. Since even a used and...
Thanks all! I actually one last night. Totally by accident, me and the wife drove to a old drive up AnW dinner for dinner. Lucky for me it was their cruise in night. Ended up chatting with a bunch of people who were looking at my truck instead while standing with their hotrods. They all pointed...
Thanks! I'll keep that in my back pocket for now. First things first I gotta call another shop up. Also I fully agree with you on the change in culture. Since it is a big NAPA shop they would rather sell me something. I'm sure one of the two small shops I found will be willing to do some work...
This what I cant understand either. Since I have all of the parts and most are in good to usable shape. I'm looking at $900-$1200 for parts alone. so unless the machine work will run me $4000 there is no way that I will be near the price of a comparable crate motor which let's be honest probably...
This i great info, thank you! Since this will be going into a daily driven k series which will occasionally go offroad and tow a small to medium trailer and load occasionally I know that I should stay with an RV type cam for more low end torque. But from what I'm thinking (which is very most...
Yep. I was totally willing to wait the three weeks but they straight up turned me away. I guess the "dying industry" in Oregon here has too much work to justify taking on more. I might have to drive it out of state just to get my block tanked, new cam bearings, freeze plugs and a hone.
This is getting a little ridiculous. After the first napa shop, closed its doors and didnt do anything in a month, I retrieved my parts. Took it to two other machine shops about an hours drive away one being the napa home shop, all of them turned it away saying they were full up for three weeks...