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  1. C

    Hello From NorCal

    Welcome from Northern California too.
  2. C

    1983 K10 part time conversion

    Are you certain they’re all time? ‘83 probably has automatic hubs, they lock themselves in when you pull the transfer case into four wheel drive. If for some reason they are actually full time hubs you shouldn’t have any problem switching them out to an automatic or manual hub
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    gas tank wont fill all the way

    Some of the K5’s that used to come through when I worked at a full service gas station we would have to insert the nozzle upside down for them to take fuel
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    Ignition Switch (Tilt Column)

    Good luck Sir! Tilt column’s are tricky but kinda fun too
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    Ignition Switch (Tilt Column)

    That is a big part of your problem I’d bet… Does the movable part of the column have play in it? When the tilt mechanism gets loose it is a big contributing factor to the rack breaking You can unbolt the switch and let it dangle to the side to start the truck without the key for a while...
  6. C

    Ignition Switch (Tilt Column)

    Piece of trash in the cylinder Dry cruddy grease in the rack assembly Broken rack Bent ignition rod Worn out/damaged switch Combination of all IIRC manual columns have a button to push to allow the key to rotate? If so there could be an issue there too. Pull the switch off of the column &...
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    Waffling

    MMMMMM… Waffles!
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    Waffling

    Honestly Sir, I hate 16.5’s and chrome wagon wheels… If hard pressed to do tires now I would run the chrome 16’s and keep an eye out for a better set of wheels to swap the tires onto later.
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    Grill and head light bezels -'81 K20 Silverado

    I’m super pleased with my AMD grille (different year though)
  10. C

    Potential wiring problem

    lol… There’s something I can think of that would result in the temp gauge pegging and the engine not running at the same time. To clarify, does the engine turn over when trying to start?
  11. C

    What are these for?

    They’re all rusted out, we welded a patch in mine instead of replacing
  12. C

    Potential wiring problem

    The factory wrap looks like electrical tape just less sticky
  13. C

    Potential wiring problem

    Mice love wiring insulation for some odd reason
  14. C

    Dual fuel tanks and valves

    Pretty! Does the rod go to the bottom of the cab or what? I made a shield out of scrap aluminum , but the stock one is so much nicer
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    Potential wiring problem

    I’d guess the gauge wiring has a short somewhere. Trace the wiring back to the firewall bulkhead, inspect for damage or chafing. If no damage there look in the cab: The harness that runs up to the gauge cluster from the bulkhead/fuse block is fairly large diameter and very difficult to get...
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    Dual fuel tanks and valves

    I’d like to see one mounted, My truck never had one, or it was removed by the original owner, or Dad took it off and didn’t want to put it back.
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    Bilsteins 5100 on 75 k10. Rear shock mounting fit issues

    That’s the same part number I used on the rear of my ‘80 K10, I don’t remember any issues. Be sure to check for cracks in the frame while you’re in there, mine was cracked on both sides where there is a little dent and flat spot pressed into the frame. IIRC @Grit dog had issues with how the...
  18. C

    3in body lift pucks

    I’d pull the steering shaft first, and unhook the shift linkage second (for automatic) or clutch for standard before pulling any body mounts or lift pucks
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    Best header back exhaust package for a 1985 K10 short bed

    My first set of duals was a Hooker 2.25” kit from the PAW catalog, IIRC the pipe kit was around $200 and two $29 super turbo Hooker mufflers. That kit and a little cam and I had one of the better sounding trucks in town
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    Correct Exhaust Manifold Bolts

    Grade 8s with washers works but don’t look nice and are a far cry from an OE looking bolt. I had bought some 2.5” grade 8’s that I cut down to 2.25”, but ended up replacing them with ARP’s instead
  21. C

    Dual fuel tanks and valves

    Same on my ‘80 half ton, inside of the frame rail just in front of the back cab mount. Here’s a picture without the bed on, ignore my hose routing (my valve was bypassed)
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    Best header back exhaust package for a 1985 K10 short bed

    IIRC the difference between a LB or SB kit is the length of the first straight section as it leaves the mufflers. Many kits just require cutting that pipe to length.
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    A very expensive and dumb mistake (update I was wrong)

    So long as the angle at one joint matches the angle at the other it’s all good! No different than the downward angle from the trans to the pinion. I suppose it could make the phasing of the joints more sensitive to pinion angle. Pinion and transfer case are both parallel to the frame rails...
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    Filling in seams

    If mine were off by a 1/6” I would’ve smeared body filler on em.
  25. C

    Filling in seams

    I shaved and smoothed the door jambs but left the seam at the top of the B pillar on the exterior.

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