What have you done to your square lately??

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PrairieDrifter

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Yesterday was such a nice day that I took a cruise out in the county, and stopped by Heavy Metal Custom Shop in town. The Edelbrock tuning had been going ok, but it was rich at the top end at WOT. Like…filthy pig rich, 10.7-10.8 on the AFR and would start to choke itself out.

So when I stopped by I asked them what jet sizes they had. They didn’t have the 0.92, but did have the 0.89 (stock is 0.95 on the 650 cfm 1906). So, being inspired by the Mike Finnegan “go big or go home “ school of thought, I took it apart and switched to the .089 on the secondaries.

For the warm up, filled up downtown with some Ethanol-free, splashed in some octane boost, and went back out in the county. Held my breath, rolled into it to full WOT, and let ‘er eat.

It stayed in the low 12s on the AFR , and pulled SO much harder. What. A. Difference. Shockingly better, to the point that I had to let off because I had the tach buried past 5k on the stock tach, and I didn’t want to hurt it.

When I get the finances sorted, next is that vacuum gauge so I can use the vacuum in conjunction with the AFR to set the step up springs perfectly.

Got home and gave her a spit bath. I’ll call it a win for the day.
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I switched to a Holley and immediately got an Afr gauge, it has been a big help. Then I got a vacuum gauge too and that just ties the tuning aspect all in. You can see basically the whole picture. Whether you're safe or not. Vacuum gauge is great for fine tuning the enrichment circuit. Holleys have a power valve that is the enrichment circuit for low vacuum situations, I can see exactly when it comes in on the vacuum gauge as well as the Afr.
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Normmus

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working on something to hold my spare fluilds etc behind the seat. This the mock up/cut stage. I will post a pic when im done.
Looks good! Also, I am curious about the speaker enclosure, is that a commercially available item?
 

JamesSam

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working on something to hold my spare fluilds etc behind the seat. This the mock up/cut stage. I will post a pic when im done.
I like this. I have temporarily fashioned one out of a narrow cardboard box that tapered to the top, kind of like a triangle, that a plant was delivered in to our house. It made sense to do because I keep the fluids back there as well, and the original tool/storage tray from GM was just cardboard made in a fancy way. I have been thinking about making something more permanent with wood and maybe covering with tolex...of course it will have to match what housing I put the big speakers for the bass in eventually lol. Also, it sucks that OEM replacements of the cardboard originals are over $100.00.
 

Z28 Guy

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I got the brackets to hold the 6×9 speakers from wheels411. 55 dollars or so for the brackets. A direct fit in.
Speakers are Kickers... the highest dollar ones they make. Amp is cerwin Vega. Its a 100 dollar amp. My headunit is a retro sound. No subwoofer for me. Just some better than average 6×9s . Here is a better pic
 

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Z28 Guy

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James- the tolex idea sounds great. I had to look at up to see what exactly that was. I will be running something on the thinner side on the front side of the fluid/parts box. Maybe some type of mesh or something. Not sure yet as im still thinking on it. Every cm matters cause these trucks are very limited on space behind the seat.
 

PrairieDrifter

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350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
James- the tolex idea sounds great. I had to look at up to see what exactly that was. I will be running something on the thinner side on the front side of the fluid/parts box. Maybe some type of mesh or something. Not sure yet as im still thinking on it. Every cm matters cause these trucks are very limited on space behind the seat.
That's what you got an eight foot bed for!!

I like my bed mounted tool boxes.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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James- the tolex idea sounds great. I had to look at up to see what exactly that was. I will be running something on the thinner side on the front side of the fluid/parts box. Maybe some type of mesh or something. Not sure yet as im still thinking on it. Every cm matters cause these trucks are very limited on space behind the seat.
Yup, tolex is a fabric that Fender and other makers used to cover amplifier and guitar cases. Has a nice pattern and it's pretty durable.
 

WFarm

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A few days ago I posted about my transmission work; changing to a pan with a drain plug and removing the kick down cable. I reused the LubeLocker pan gasket, something I have done in the past with no issues. This time it developed a leak so I dropped the pan and replaced the gasket. Today I drove it for a while and so far it’s dry as a bone.

That drain plug was real nice to have when it came time to drop that pan!

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Tank6x2

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Outer Roof panel primed, sound deadened both to replace what was there originally and have a touch of sound proofing, the AMD panel pretty well set it self in place with the odd tweak and spot welded solid along the front and side edges, just going to spend some time with the back edge welding it solid.
 

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Johnny Atomic

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I like this. I have temporarily fashioned one out of a narrow cardboard box that tapered to the top, kind of like a triangle, that a plant was delivered in to our house. It made sense to do because I keep the fluids back there as well, and the original tool/storage tray from GM was just cardboard made in a fancy way. I have been thinking about making something more permanent with wood and maybe covering with tolex...of course it will have to match what housing I put the big speakers for the bass in eventually lol. Also, it sucks that OEM replacements of the cardboard originals are over $100.00.
I've done quite a bit of work with tolex. The best way to attach it that I've used is regular old Tightbond wood carpenters glue. Type 1, 2, or 3 wouldn't really matter for a box inside the cab. Works way better than any contact cement, super glue or glue sold especially for tolex. Fender used hot hide glue, which is basically melted dry unflavored gelatin powder. Tighbond dries to a very similar consistency. The only downside is holding it down until the glue dries, I use masking tape to hold it down while it dries. You can also you a straight pin like the ones you get when buying a fancy shirt or pants. Straight pin pushed in far enough to hold it down, but don't leave a noticable sized hole when removed.
 
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Chris64

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Finally switched to an HEI system. I bought new cables (unfinished so I could make them the exact length) but they didn't fit the new distributor (which are identical to spark plug ends) so I used the crimp on ends from the new set on the old cables. The "old" cables were nice MSD cables and they're probably nicer than what I bought so I think it'll work for now.

The weird thing was the current rotor was installed 90 degrees CW @ TDC. I planned to just copy what was there but that seemed a little wonky. So I reinstalled it properly with #1 being @5 O'clock rather than8 O'clock (as you look at it).

First crank it fired right up and just needed a minor tweak back to about 8 degrees (not really sure what's optimal but that seems to be close).

It could be my imagination but it sounds a lot better and revs better. I had to lift the AC pump to remove the old wire management system which was probably the hardest part.
 
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