Finally got a running 65 C10

Sorry Wayne, but it's not gonna be as much fun as an M20 or M21...........or M22......lol

1low4x4 said:

wonder why no new ones in the kit?

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Because the kit is designed to fit together and work well with your specific cam and spring combo, for optimum performance and longevity. The valve seals are just oil seals and the cam manufacturers aren't going to know exactly what anyone needs. It largely depends on what work has been done on the heads in the past. It will be whatever the machinist decided to use.

bucket said:

In this scenario, what is your shift rpm? Ever try a no-lift-shift with one? I have not been brave enough.

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The RPM drops from 4000 or 4500 to about 3000 RPM. No, never a no-lift. I abused it enough as it was.

idahovette said:

Sorry Wayne, but it's not gonna be as much fun as an M20 or M21...........or M22......lol

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"You gotta run what you brung"

bucket said:

Because the kit is designed to fit together and work well with your specific cam and spring combo, for optimum performance and longevity. The valve seals are just oil seals and the cam manufacturers aren't going to know exactly what anyone needs. It largely depends on what work has been done on the heads in the past. It will be whatever the machinist decided to use.

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10/4. Any idea why they used different ones on these heads, all they had or is there a reason?

Sneak peak still have to finish springs and install intake

1low4x4 said:

wonder why no new ones in the kit?

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For one thing too many sizes, types and preferences. And most guys don't change them with cam swaps,most change them at valve job time or when they start leaking.

1low4x4 said:

10/4. Any idea why they used different ones on these heads, all they had or is there a reason?

Sneak peak still have to finish springs and install intake

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I'm sure they had a reason for it, as the exhausts got umbrella seals and the intakes got positive seals. I just don't know what that reason would be. Perhaps the thought was that the umbrella seals let a little more oil past and would help with guide wear on the exhausts?

Or price!!!

My 3 speed is the 4 bolt side cover I'm assuming muncie. Will a 3 speed saginaw fit in its place (the one with more bolts on the side cover)without having to mess with mounts/driveshaft etc?

I opening mine up and its a little gnarly

1low4x4 said:

My 3 speed is the 4 bolt side cover I'm assuming muncie. Will a 3 speed saginaw fit in its place (the one with more bolts on the side cover)without having to mess with mounts/driveshaft etc?

I opening mine up and its a little gnarly

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I believe it's a direct swap with zero mods

The Saginaw might be a fine spline yoke? The original is coarse?.............maybe

idahovette said:

The Saginaw might be a fine spline yoke? The original is coarse?.............maybe

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I think the yokes/output shafts are the same, but I could be wrong.

My borg warner od 3 speed is a direct swap with my saginaw 3 speed. I have an M20 and the output shaft and transmission length is the same as the other two I mentioned

I guess the innards of my trans dont look that bad...just a few small chips on some gears. When I pulled the tailshaft off to change the gasket, needle bearings came out and I lost 2. (There are 24 i believe). So I'll have to order a rebuild kit.

I took the front shaft out to access the needle bearings. Painted everything nice. I put it all back together just to see if I could (still need needle bearings or rollers whatever they are called) but when i go to put the tailshaft back on, it slides in until about a 1/4" inch from fully in. SO not sure whats up with that.

Got the water pump, intake and fuel pump back on.

Need to order:

valve guide seals
a freeze plug
a new harmonic balancer
a spring compression tool

Later I'll need:

plugs, wires
going with possibly a new distributor but at the least rotor and cap
coolant
enough oil and filter for 2 oil changers
some zinc additive for break in
need to get a tach in the truck
get a new timing light
fuel hose (last guy used whatever he had)
would really like a new starter or at least get mine looked at/rebuilt

money is a little tight since I spent the last 1000 on cam kit and rockauto parts so I'm biding my time and doing things I can do until then

Some pics

Assuming you are rebuilding the transmission, it should be better when you're done. With new seals it better not leak anymore...lol...

DoubleDingo said:

Assuming you are rebuilding the transmission, it should be better when you're done. With new seals it better not leak anymore...lol...

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yes....I hope I can get it back together once I get the needle bearings I need